292 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
Stocks and Wall Flowers—Take up and 
pot, keeping shaded. 
Transplanting of all hardy flowering 
shrubs, Evergreen and deciduous shade trees, 
perennials, &c. ; may be done at any time 
during the month. 
Tulips—Plant f. m. 1. see article page 282 
September nnmber. 
Verbenas and Petunias—Separate and 
pot layers for winter and spring blooming. 
GREEN AND HOT HOUSES. 
Air freely, especially graperies. Tender 
plants which bear but little exposure should 
be aired only during mild weather, closing 
early at night. 
Achimines and Gloxinias done blooming— 
Place on a dry shelf until spring. 
Azalias—Put in winter quarters,watering 
sparingly. 
Bark Beds—Renew or renovate ff. 
Camellias—Bud and arrange in winter 
situations. Water and syringe freely. 
Chrysanthemums fur late blooming—Take 
inside and water with liquid manure. 
Deutzias, Spireas, &c., may be potted 
now for blooming in the Greenhouse. 
Figs—Take to vineryor cold grapery, and 
water sparingly after the fruit is gathered. 
Fires—Keep up a moderate heat in the 
hot houses. 
Fuchsias done blooming—Cut in and place 
away under the stage watering sparingly. 
Glass, Flues, &c.—Repair flf. if not already 
done. 
Grapes may be kept fresh on the vines for 
a long time by airing freely in good weather. 
Vines in Greenhouses should have their late 
wood shortened in, and decayed leaves 
picked off; those in cold houses air freely 
as soon as the fruit is matured, to ripen off 
the wood. 
Houses—Keep clean with sashes, pullies, 
&c., in good order, and arrangements per¬ 
fected for artificial heat. 
Housing Plants—Complete before the 
frost has marred the beauty of fine speci¬ 
mens. 
Hyacinths—Pot for early bloom. 
Leaves—Pick of decayed ones and cleanse 
others when taken into the house. 
Pansias and Daisies for winter bloom 
should be potted now. 
Books on Agriculture, Horticulture, &c. 
We are continually applied to for these, and 
are always ready to furnish to our subscri¬ 
bers any book they may desire, sending it to 
them post paid on receiving the retail price. 
This is, however, not our legitimate busi¬ 
ness and we only do it as a matter of ac¬ 
commodation. The same may be said of 
implements, manures, &c., &c. We have not 
the slightest connection with, or interest in 
any business except publishing this paper. 
Those desiring books, &c., will generally 
find them announced in our advertising col¬ 
umns. Messrs. C. M. Saxton, & Co., have 
in this number a very convenient table of 
books with the price given and the method 
of obtaining them postage free. This is a 
reliable house, and we can commend their 
advertisement to all wanting books.—E d. 
WHEN, AND HOW TO SET OUT TREES. 
1. We advise to set out most kinds of 
fruit trees in the Fall, as soon as may be 
after the leaves have dropped from them. 
Peach, apricot, and nectarine trees are trans¬ 
planted more safely in the Spring, as early 
as the ground will admit being worked. 
2. Deciduous shade trees and shrubs, that 
is, those which shed their leaves in Autumn, 
should be set as soon as the leaves fall. 
The above two rules do not apply to very 
cold latitudes, where the ground remains 
deeply frozen for four or five months in the 
year. In such localities, early Spring trans¬ 
planting is thought to be the safest. 
3. Evergreen trees and shrubs are best 
transplanted in May, June, August, or Sep¬ 
tember at the North—earlier at the South. 
4. In taking up trees, great care should 
be used to save unbroken as many as possi¬ 
ble of the very small roots and fibres, even 
those so minute as to be scarcely seen with¬ 
out a magnifying glass. Upon the number 
of these, which are really the feeders of the 
tree, will depend its future growth and vigor. 
Never pull up a tree rudely, or cut off its 
roots with a spade, except, perhaps, some 
of its longer large roots. Leave the tap¬ 
root moderately long. Before lifting a tree, 
loosen the soil around it well, and then take 
it up carefully. Proper care in this particu¬ 
lar will double the chance of its surviving, 
and render it ten-fold more valuable after¬ 
wards. 
5. While out of the ground, the roots 
should on no account be exposed to the sun 
or dry winds. If not set out immediately, 
let them be covered and kept damp— not wet. 
Too much wet, warm packing is almost as 
dangerous as dryness. 
6. Dig WIDE, DEEP HOLES, to be filled 
with GOOD SURFACE SOIL. Here, lies 
one of the great secrets of successful fruit¬ 
growing. No matter how poor the original 
soil, it is always comparatively easy to dig 
out a large hole, say two to two and one-half 
feet deep, and five to eight feet in diameter, 
and fill it in with good soil for the future 
bed of the tree. The air from which they 
derive much nourishment is just as good 
over a barren sandy field as over a fertile 
one, and we can always get good soil enough 
for the tree to grow in, even if it has to be 
carted a mile. 
A tree set out in the best manner is capi¬ 
tal well invested. If a load of good soil to 
fill in around the roots of each tree costs 
even one dollar per tree, that dollar is well 
invested —the tree will in a short time pay 
back a large interest annually. The tree 
poorly set in poor soil may repay the first 
cost and annual care. If supplied with good 
soil, it will require n,o more after care than 
in the other case, while it will give two, 
three, four, five, perhaps ten times as much 
fruit. We can not urge this point too 
strongly. 
7. The Soil. —If the ground designed for fruit 
or shade trees has a good surface soil, dig 
the holes as follows: Throw out a few 
inches of the best soil upon the surface, 
leaving it near by the holes. All below this 
should be spread at a distance. Then fill in 
the bottom with the soil near by, and upon this 
set the trees. Complete the filling with the 
best top soil gathered from some distance 
around each hole. Unless the ground is al¬ 
ready quite rich, it is well to mix with the 
filling a good supply of rotten manure, muck, 
or decayed leaves, &c. We know of nothing 
better to put in the soil around the roots of 
all fruit trees than ground bones. Theyneed 
not be finely ground. The finest portions will 
furnish immediate pabulum or food to the 
roots, while the coarser portions will decay 
gradually, and yield an annual supply of 
nutriment through a long series of years. 
In the absence of a bone mill, bones coarsely 
broken with a hammer will serve an excel¬ 
lent purpose. But even with bones, it is well 
to add a little rotten manure for the imme¬ 
diate wants of the roots. Remember that 
after a tree has been set out, and its roots 
have commenced to grow, you can not 
►readily replace a poor soil with a better one, 
nor can you mix with it a supply of fertil¬ 
izer's. The after improving will necessarily 
be by means of liquid manures. Therefore 
prepare a permanently rich soil at first. 
8. Setting out the Trees. —Here, also, a. 
little, yes, a good deal of care, will pay. Hav¬ 
ing taken up the trees as directed above, fill 
up the several holes, so that when they have 
settled, each tree will stand about as deep 
as when it grew originally in the nursery. 
Then set in the trees, leaving the roots free,, 
and extended in their natural position. Do 
not shovel in the soil upon them in masses, 
but sprinkle it in among and around the 
roots, (jarring the tree with the hand occa¬ 
sionally,) and press it down lightly. This 
done, fill up the rest of the hole with good 
soil, as directed above. 
The ground should be left a little elevated 
around the trees, to allow for settling. It is 
well to add even more than this to support 
the tree during the winter, and dig away the 
surplus in the Spring. 
If the ground is dry at the time of setting, 
or if dry weather succeeds, an occasional 
watering should be given, just enough to 
keep the ground damp, but not enough to 
bake it, or make it wet and cold. The object 
should be to get the fibres started before all 
growth is cut off by frost. If much water 
remains about the roots during Winter, there 
will be more expansion and contraction by 
frost, and the tender roots will be more torn 
and broken thereby. We would recommend 
thorough under-draining for all ground on 
which fruit ti-ees are to grow, but only 
those who are thoroughly convinced of the 
utility of draining genei-ally, would heed our 
suggestions in this respect, while, should we 
urge this point, many would be deterred 
from setting out trees at all, on account of 
the labor required. While draining,like the 
other operations we have laid down, would 
pay well, it is not indispensable. Besides, 
the ground may be drained subsequently by 
running drains between the rows of trees. 
Puddling Trees. —This is a. method of 
treating the roots after taking them up, 
highly recommended by some. It is done 
thus : A mixture of say two-thirds loamy 
soil, and one-third cow dung, is put into a 
