1876.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
243 
enough, is generally the best plan. The loss of 
weight, and that from vermin and other risks, are 
saved; the labor of stacking or putting it in the 
barn, and a second handling are also saved, and with 
the cash in his pocket, a farmer avoids any loss in 
value, and if he misses a rise, he will on the whole 
have saved more than this might have amounted 
to, and has had the use of the money besides. 
' The Granary.—It grain is stored, care should be 
taken to preserve it from vermin, and to turn it oc¬ 
casionally, lest it might heat and mildew. 
Stock. —See hints for last month, which apply to 
this month as well. 
Take a Holiday. —Nb farmer or mechanic should 
miss seeing the Centennial Exhibition. If he can 
not go, he should send one at least of his sons. If 
he can not afford to do that, he should take what 
recreation he can in the most convenient manner. 
Family parties, neighborly picnics to interesting 
places, and social gatherings, make us better ac¬ 
quainted with each other, and show the best points 
of people whom we might suppose had but little 
good about them. In business no one is seen at 
his best, and we want to think as well of our neigh¬ 
bors as we possibly can. 
In the Southern States , the “ plowing ” of cotton, 
and the planting of food and fodder crops occupy 
this month. But cotton should be “ plowed ” with 
the cultivator. Injury to the roots weakens the 
plants, and deep culture dries the soil. It is shal¬ 
low culture which keeps the surface mellow and 
loose, preserves the moisture of the soil, and makes 
it absorbent and retentive. A “scraper” or shallow 
cultivator should be used in preference to a plow. 
Sweet Potatoes may still be planted, and there is 
no better or cheaper material for making pork than 
this. If the weather is dry when the plants are set 
out, all that is needed is to dip the roots in a mud 
made of cow dung and loam, and leave the soil 
dishing around the plants. After the first shower 
hoe the moist earth around the plant, filling the 
hollow. Few will be lost that are planted in the 
afternoon. 
The Second Crop of “ Hound'" Potatoes , may be 
planted this month and next. The sets should be 
planted deeply, which will keep them cool, and 
tend to throw out a strong growth of roots before 
the leaves appear above the surface. 
Fodder Crops. —For the Southern States ruta¬ 
bagas will be found a valuable winter forage crop, j 
Sown towards the end of this month upon fine mel¬ 
low soil, rolled after sowing , and fertilized with a 
moderate dressing of superphosphate, this crop 
will furnish the best of feed for sheep, which 
will consume it upon the ground if confined in 
hurdles or nets. They are also valuable feed for 
cows, and if sliced are remarkably healthful and ac¬ 
ceptable to horses and mules. 
The Cow Pea is worthy of being sown by itseif, 
although at the last plowing of cotton, they may 
be plowed in between the rows. This is one of 
the fodder crops which can be grown most profita¬ 
bly in the South, and is as valuable as the northern 
clover, when well cured. 
Cabbages. —Another valuable fodder crop in the 
South is the cabbage. For field culture the plants 
may be set out this month, on good soil, and for 
later plantings the seed may be sown in beds early 
this month. Superphosphate or guano is an excel¬ 
lent fertilizer for this crop. By this time the bother¬ 
some flea has departed for the season. 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
With plants generally, this month is almost a sea¬ 
son of rest. Trees have made their early increase 
of wood, and are now maturing it. The hot weather 
checks rapid growth in most garden vegetables, but 
the weeds, especially those from tropical countries, 
are in their glory. The main work in all depart¬ 
ments is weeds. Weeds in orchard and fruit gar¬ 
den ; weeds in the kitchen and flower garden; 
weeds in the greenhouse and fence corners ; weeds 
before, behind, and all around. If one cannot keep 
his crops clear of weeds, he either has not enough 
force or too much land in cultivation.- N. B. Let 
every one who can, visit the Centennial exhibition. 
?&K*claar«l aaad 
Young Trees will suffer from the hot sun and dry¬ 
ness. See to the mulch, if one is not already put 
on, lose no time in applying it, and replace any that 
may have been disturbed by the wind or otherwise. 
If a young tree seems to be suffering, give it an 
extra mulch, and if it has a long, naked trunk, tie 
some hay or straw around to shade it. 
Grafts set this spring need attention. If they 
push too vigorously, pinch the end out; if too 
many buds start, remove useless shoots. See that 
shoots from the stock do not rob the graft. 
Seedlings, especially of forest trees, will suffer 
from the hot sun, and must be shaded. A lattice- 
work of laths or other slats is best; a good sub¬ 
stitute is to stick leafy branches all over the bed. 
Insects. —On the first appearance of a web of the 
Tent caterpillar, destroy it and its contents ; do this 
early in the morning, when the colony is at home. 
Watch for other insects, and recollect that every 
day’s delay in killing them greatly increases the 
difficulty of the task. 
Thinning the fruit is especially necessary on 
young trees disposed to overbear. Removing half 
or more of the crop of fruit to be marketed, is 
found to pay in the increased price of better fruit. 
IPritit Warden. 
What is said under orchard in relation to mulch¬ 
ing and insects, applies with equal force to the 
fruit garden. 
Strawberries in all but the northernmost localities, 
are now clear of fruit, and the after treatment cf 
the beds will depend upon the method of culture. 
Where the plants are kept in stools or single rows, 
remove the mulch, cut off all runners, fork in some 
fine manure, and replace the mulch ; the few weeds 
that come up through the mulch may be hand- 
pulled ; continue to cut the runners as they grow. 
If the bedding or alternate method is followed, fork 
up and manure the spaces between the beds and 
let the runners fill them. 
Mowing the Leaves of strawberries, as soon as the 
crop is off is commeuded by some, who claim that 
the new growth is finer and the plants more fruit¬ 
ful. We have never tried this plan, but propose to 
do so with a part of a bed. 
Raspberries follow directly upon strawberries, and 
in picking require even more care than strawber¬ 
ries ; cool off the fruit before packing in crates. 
All the varieties that push up new canes from the 
root must have provision made for next year’s crop 
by saving 3 or 4 shoots from each stool ; as soon as 
the fruit is off, cut away the old canes and train up 
the new ones; when these reach 4 feet in hight, 
stop their upward growth by pinching. Black-caps 
and the red sorts that root from the tips of the 
canes, bear fruit on new branches from the lower 
part of the plant, but do not spread by suckers; 
the old wood of these is to be cut out, and the new 
branches cared for. 
Blackberries get very heavy with fruit, and should 
be kept securely tied to stakes ; train up 3 or 4 new 
shoots to form canes to bear next year; stop them 
when 5 feet high. Cut out old caues when the fruit 
is off. If the “ rust” appears, cutout the affected 
canes and burn to prevent its spreading. 
Chrape-vines .—In regularly trained vines the new 
growth must be kept tied up to the trellis. As lat¬ 
erals appear, pinch them back to one leaf. Upon 
the first signs of mildew, apply sulphur by means 
of a bellows. Most of the troublesome insects at 
this season are kept down by hand-picking. Rose- 
bugs and other small beetles may be shaken off 
early in the morning, while torpid, and caught in 
a dish of water. Rub off all shoots that appear 
where canes are not wanted. 
Currants. —Where the leaves suddenly wilt, it is 
likely that a borer will be found in the stem. The 
work of the currant worm is at once seen by the 
disappearance of the leaves. Lose no time in ap¬ 
plying white hellebore, either dusting on the pow¬ 
der, or mixing two ounces of the powder, first well 
stirred with a quart or two of boiling water, in an 
ordinary pailful of cold water, and apply with a 
syringe. 
Pears will usually need free thinning, especially 
the large varieties. If the slug appears on the 
leaves, dust them with fine slaked lime. For the 
blight there is no known remedy or preventive. 
Its presence is not seen until the mischief is done. 
All that can be done is to cut away and burn the 
blighted portions, even if it take the whole tree. 
MitcSiesa 
The early crops will now be off, and the ground 
should be made ready for setting out the later ones 
as soon as there are sufficient rains. In time of 
drouth keep the surface stirred, as a mellow sur¬ 
face soil not only prevents evaporation, but it ab¬ 
sorbs dews. Besides these the all important office 
of killing the weeds is performed. Now the “ pus- 
ley ” and crab grass grow apace. It is a common 
saying that he is a poor gardener who “ lets his 
pusley get ahead of him.” Keep the hand-hoes, 
wheel-hoes, horse and hand cultivators, in motion, 
and do not forget that great execution can be done 
among young weeds with a sharp, long-toothed 
steel rake. Those who “make garden” for once 
and all in the spring, deprive themselves of much 
of the enjoyment they might have by sowing for 
successive crops. We here enumerate such vegeta¬ 
bles that may still be sown with the hope of a sat¬ 
isfactory return. 
Beans. —Sow bush sorts. If Limas and other 
climbers do not take to the pole, give them a little 
help; pinch the tips when they get to the top of 
the pole and also the euds of long straggling 
branches. In northern climates it is a mistake to 
give these poles over 6 or 8 feet high. 
Beets. —Keep the main crop of late kinds well 
weeded and thinned. In hot weather, spinach 
runs at once to seed, young beets make a capital 
substitute, and some sow especially for this use. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers. —Set out plants for the 
late crops whenever there is a favorable time. In 
taking plants from the seed bed, reject all that have 
malformed roots, and also all “blind” plants; it 
sometimes happens that the terminal bud, or grow¬ 
ing point, from some cause, is injured or imperfect, 
and such are called “ blind.” Use the rake freely 
among newly set crops. 
Carrots. —Thin, if not already done, and keep the 
hoe at work until the leaves get large enough to 
prevent. Where young roots are desired, sow seed. 
Celery. —Set in the first fayorable spell on the 
level ground in rows 3 feet apart, and the plants 6 
inches distant. But few follow the old plan of set¬ 
ting in trenches. 
Corn. —Sow the early sorts at intervals of two 
weeks to the end of the month ; if the later sown 
fails to form ears, it will be useful fodder. Culti¬ 
vate often. 
Cucumbers may still be planted for pickles early 
in the month. 
Egg Plant should be forwarded by frequent hoe¬ 
ing and occasional doses of liquid manure. When 
the fruit gets large, put hay or straw under it, to 
keep it from the ground. Go over the plants daily 
and pick off the potato bugs, which seem to prefer 
this to all other food. 
Endive. —Where this is liked as a salad, seeds for 
a late crop may be sown. 
Herbs. —Transplant from seed bed, sage, thyme, 
and other culinary herbs, putting them 8 inches 
apart in rows a foot apart. 
Lettuce. —Seeds may be sown late in the month 
for a late crop. 
Melons. —Keep hoed as long as the vines will al¬ 
low. Remove all fruit not likely to ripen. 
Pecs. —Sow early sorts, putting in the seed at least 
4 inches deep. Late crops sometimes escape mil¬ 
dew, but oftener do not. 
Seeds of those kinds it is desired to save should 
be labeled at once, and when dry, stored in a cool, 
dry place, out' of reach of mice. 
