4:16 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[November, 
Wide. A large faucet was fitted at one end, and a 
short piece of hose was fixed to this, to convey the 
Water to the drinking troughs. For milk cows 
pasturing in a field not supplied with water in any 
other manner, it would he found of great benefit to 
stir into the water a few shovelfuls of bran or mid¬ 
dlings. The shaking of the wagon would keep the 
mixture well stirred, and this addition to the water 
would not only make it more palatable, and lead 
to a greater consumption of it, but it would supply 
additional nutriment of the most valuable and de¬ 
sirable character for producing milk. In serving 
out this drink none of the stock should be neglect¬ 
ed, but cows, calves, horses, sheep, hogs, and poul¬ 
try, should always have a regular supply. It makes 
work, certainly, but our principle in farming is to 
make as much work as we can, provided the work 
is profitable, and no work upon the farm can be 
made more profitable than caring well for the 
health and comfort of the stock. This it is that 
produces milk, butter, beef, pork, wool, and mut¬ 
ton ; and these we have found to be the most 
satisfactory money yielding products of the farm. 
How to Make a Fishing Scow. 
The fishing season is over, but the fishing season 
is not the time to make preparations for it. These, 
such as boat-building, should be done during the 
winter, when indoor work is more agreeable, and 
leisure is more ample, than in the summer. A boy 
who can handle tools, may make a very handsome 
boat or scow, such as is shown at figure 1, at a cost 
of five dollars or less, in the following manner. 
Erocure five three-quarter or half-inch clear pine 
boards, 12 feet in length, and 8 inches wide; four 
boards 10 feet long, 1 inch thick, and 1 foot wide, 
and three strips 10 feet long, 1 Finch thick, and 
three inches wide. Plane all these smoothly on 
both sides, and have them all free from loose knots 
or shakes. Cut two of the 1-inch boards into the 
shape shown at figure 2, for side boards, sloping 
each end to a straight line for two feet, and then 
slightly rounding the middle of the board as shown. 
Cut two pieces of the lt-iuch strips into lengths of 
2 feet 10 inches, and nail them to the ends of the 
side-boards as shown at fig. 3. If strips of soft brown 
paper are dipped into tar and placed between the 
joints, they will be made closer and more water¬ 
tight. Cut the 8-inch boards into 3 feet lengths, 
and nail them across the bottom, as shown at figure 
3, where the bevel ends, the two bottom boards 
must be beveled slight¬ 
ly upon one of their 
edges, so as to make a 
close joint. Then take 
two of the 11-inch 
strips, and make cuts in 
each on one side with 
the saw, one inch deep, 
as follows ; measuring 
from one end,mark with 
a pencil across the strip 3 feet 6 inches from the 
end ; then mark again across the strip li-inch from 
the first mark, and score between these marks with 
an x. Then measure 3 inches and make another 
mark, and then an 
inch and a-half and 
make still another 
mark, and score as 
before between these 
last two with an x. 
Then do precisely the 
same on the same 
side of the strip, 
measuring from the 
other end. Then on 
the edges of the 
board score with 
gauge or make a line 
with a pencil exactly 
one inch from the 
marked side. Then 
make the cuts on the 
pencil lines down to 
the score on the 
edge, just one inch 
deep, but no more. 
Cut away the wood in the places that were marked 
with an x, leaving four slots 11-inch wide, 1 inch 
deep, and with three inches between them upon 
each strip. Nail these strips with the cut side in¬ 
wards, to the upper edge of the side-board, on the 
outside of the boat, as' seen at figure 4. The spaces 
left in the gunwale are for the row-locks. The strips 
should be well nailed near the row-locks, and if a 
quarter-inch flat headed counter-sunk carriage bolt 
were used on each side of them, it would be very 
much better than so many nails. A thin washer, 
or burr, should be used beneath the nut of each 
bolt. The row-lock pins spould be made of hard 
maple or oak, in the shape shown at a, figure 4. 
They are one inch thick, one and a-half inch wide 
at the lower part, which 
fits into the slot, with a 
shoulder of half-an- 
inch, and the top is 
beveled off neatly as 
shown. The seats, of 
which there are two, are 
made 10 inches wide. 
The cleats for the seats, 
one inch thick, one and 
a half inch wide, and 10 
inches long, are nailed 3 inches below the upper 
edge of the side board. The middle seat goes ex¬ 
actly in the center of the boat, with each edge 4 
feet 7 inches from the end of the boat. The end 
scats are placed with the backs 2 feet from the ends 
of the boat, leaving 8 inches between each seat and 
the edge of the row-lock nearest to it. There are 
cleats for three seats, but only two seats are used 
at once. When one seat is used, the rower sits in 
the center, and he can use either of the row-locks, 
the boat being double-bowed. 
When two seats are used, one per¬ 
son only rows at one time, but 
either can row without changing 
seats, and one always faces to the 
direction in which the boat moves. 
This arrangement of scats is very convenient. 
Eighteen inches of each end is closed in, and 
makes a locker for holding fish-lines, hooks, or the 
“ painter,” which is a light rope for tying up the 
boat when not in use. This may be fastened to a 
ring-bolt or a hole bored in one of the locker cov¬ 
ers. The long bottom-board, seen in figure 4, 
8 inches wide and half-an-inch thick, is nailed as 
shown, by wrought nails driven from the outside 
and clinched on the inside. The seat cleats are 
nailed in the same manner, as are also the side 
strips. Every nail is counter-sunk and the hole 
filled up with putty. The seams are puttied or 
filled with a strip of cotton sheeting pushed in with 
the blade of a diuner knife. If the joints are made 
as well as they may be, this is not needed, but two 
coats of paint will make all tight. The inside 
should be painted lead-color, made by mixing larnp- 
Fig. 4.— INTERIOR OF BOAT. 
black with white paint to a proper shade. The out¬ 
side may be painted white or a light-green, with 
the gunwale of a light blue. A few days will be re¬ 
quired to harden the paint before using the boat. 
None but seasoned boards should be used. 
■-■ ■■-■ 
Some Useful Harrows. 
Several of our correspondents have turned their 
attention of late to harrows, for we have no less 
than three acceptable descriptions, with sketches, 
of different implements, all home-made. That 
shown in figure 1 comes from a subscriber in Michi¬ 
gan, who says : “I have used this harrow, which I 
made last winter, with so much satisfaction, that I 
would like others to try it. It is very easily and 
bl 
Fig. 1.—A MICHIGAN HARROW. 
cheaply built, almost any farmer handy with saw 
and auger, can get one up for himself, as it is with¬ 
out a single mortice or tenon. It is a complete 
harrow, light, of easy draft, strong and durable, 
and fits itself well to the unevenness of the ground; 
it excels on stumpy land, as one side will raise up 
when passing a stump. I have used it with good 
effect this spring in harrowing corn and potatoes, 
also for all the purposes of a harrow on the farm.’* 
CART FOR CARRYING WATER. 
Fig. 1.— VIEW OF FISHING SCOW. 
Fig. 2.— SHAPE OF SIDE. 
