100 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[April, 
Edgings. —Grass and Box ar« the most used. 
Both require care to keep them neat. Frequent 
use of the edging-knife is required for the grass. 
Shabby Box edging must be taken up and reset. 
Frames and Pits—Ventilate freely to prepare the 
plants for removal to the open ground. 
Gravel Walks. — Remove weeds, supply fresh 
gravel where needed; rake and roll thoroughly. 
Hedges. —Deciduous hedge plants, Privet, Haw¬ 
thorn, Buckthorn, Osage Orange, etc., may be set. 
Manure.— Give, the borders a good dressing of 
fine compost, and do not neglect to manure the 
trees and shrubs on the lawn. 
Perennials and Biennials. —Sow seeds of hardy 
sorts. Old roots of Phlox, Dicentra, etc., if divided 
and reset, will bloom all the better. Transplant Hol¬ 
lyhocks and Sweet Williams if not done in autumn. 
Boses. —Plant early, heading back well to induce 
a strong growth. The June roses may be thinned 
out and shortened somewhat. The perpetuals may 
have the branches cut back to 3 or 4 buds. In pur¬ 
chasing, select those which flower freely on their 
own roots. There are some sorts which bloom 
better when grafted, but these will, in most cases, 
prove unsatisfactory to the general cultivator. 
Have some climbing roses. The Baltimore Belle 
is the best of these, but there are other good sorts. 
Shrubs. —Thin, prune, transplant, and set out 
new stock. Give well prepared soil. See page 114 
for notes on shrubs. Remove the covering from 
tender sorts protected in autumn, only after the 
weather has become settled. 
Trees. —All deciduous trees may be planted for 
shade or ornament. They should receive the same 
-.are as a fruit tree. A pyramid dwarf pear, or a 
grape vine trained to a stake, as shown on page 
HO, may sometimes be introduced with good effect. 
Green and Hot-BBonses. 
/ire heat may be discontinued in the hot-house, 
and dispensed with altogether in the green-house, 
except in unusually cold weather. Ventilate the 
green-house to prepare plants for removal. 
Bedding Plants.— Pot off cuttings and in a few 
days remove to a cool-frame to harden, and con¬ 
tinue to propagate Petunias, Verbenas, etc. 
Bulbs. —Hyacinths and other hardy sorts which 
tre through blooming, may be turned into the open 
border. Forward Cape bulbs in a light situation. 
Camellias. —Prune into shape as soon as they arc 
through flowering. Syringe freely, and keep clean. 
Propagate from cuttings. 
Fuchsias. —These as they grow will need more 
water. Insert cuttings. 
Insects will need to be kept in check. Frequent 
syringing and a damp atmosphere will kill the red 
spider. Aphis and others need tobacco smoke. 
Inarching may be performed on shrubby plants. 
Potting. —Repot those plants which are to grow 
during the summer, unless they have room enough. 
Pruning. —Thin out crowded plants, and head 
back feeble and straggling ones, and get a new start. 
Seeds of green-house plants may now be sown. 
Covering to® deep is one great cause of failure. 
Water all growing plants freely 
Cold Grapery. 
The beginning of the present month is the usua- 
time for uncovering vines in this latitude, though 
some do it the latter part of March. The vines are 
uncovered and suspended temporarily to the wires 
in such a manner that the top of the vine will bend 
downward. This will cause the buds throughout 
the whole length to break more evenly. The in¬ 
side borders should be forked up, and the house 
should be syringed all over. If the vines have 
suffered during winter from excessive cold, or from 
not being properly ripened, they will show it by 
cracks which will soon begin to bleed. This trou¬ 
ble is usually manifested near the upper portions 
of the vine; if it proves serious and the upper 
buds do not start well, it will be necessary to cut 
the vine back, after a strong shoot near the lower 
part has grown seme 18 inches. This shoot must 
be trained to replace the cane which was removed. 
If the vine is healthy, it may be tied up to the 
wires, after the shoots have made a growth of 2 or 
3 inches. Avoid drafts, and keep the temperature 
low (about 65°) until near the end of the month, 
when it may reach 70° to 80°, and the syringe 
be then used freely morning and evening, wetting 
the wood-work of the house, as well as the vines. 
Apiary in April. 
Prepared by M. Quinby—By Request. 
In this latitude the labors of the season fairly 
commence with bees this month. They will range 
far and wide in search of pollen, honey not being 
yet obtainable to any extent. An untimely frost 
may destroy most of the flowers, and in such case 
care will be needed to prevent robbing. Unbolted 
rye flour spread in the vicinity of the hives, as re¬ 
commended last month, will give employment, and 
at least a partial supply of food. In the hive, as in 
society, idleness is the parent of mischief; strong 
stocks not being in the fields, are very likely to 
make forays upon their weaker neighbors. Weak 
colonies may need guarding by contracting the en¬ 
trances to the hives, so that only one bee can pass 
at a time. Robbing may be easily detected toward 
evening, when bees that should be quiet at home, 
are very busy pillaging from a weaker hive. Sprin¬ 
kle flour upon them as they leave with their plun¬ 
der, and they can then be readily followed to their 
own quarters. Do not mistake fighting for steal¬ 
ing; while there is contention on the outside of the 
hive, it is an indication of strength within, and 
contracting the entrance will usually be a sufficient 
precaution. To determine with certainty whether 
the bees are plundering, kill one or more of them 
as they leave the hive, and examine their honey 
sack in the abdomen ; if it is full of honey the evi¬ 
dence is against them. If the bees from only one 
hive are stealing, change the stands, setting the 
hive of robbers in the place of the sufferers. If 
the entrance has been contracted, and the plunder¬ 
ers are so briskly at work as to threaten all the 
stores before night, close the hive at once. At sun¬ 
down open the hive to allow the robbers to leave 
and those belonging there to retire. But should 
the robbers inside much exceed in numbers the 
others, you may keep them enclosed, and remove 
the hive to some dark room or cellar four or five 
days, by which time the raiders will take the oath 
of allegiance, and join in defending the common 
stores. If, during this time, the weather has allow¬ 
ed the bees to search and become discouraged in 
looking for more plunder, they may be returned to 
the stand; unfavorable weather for bees to fly 
might make it necessary to wait. When practica¬ 
ble, move them a mile or two away for a few 
weeks.Honey is needed by the older bees, 
and as this cannot yet be obtained in the fields, 
some colonics may need feeding; this may be 
ascertained and the matter arranged as directed 
last month. The labors of the hive will be greatly 
lightened and the health of the community pro¬ 
moted, by cleaning out all filth and refuse from 
the bottom boards, and removing dead bees from 
among the combs. If the combs have become 
mouldy from neglect, remove them as well as the 
decaying bees. The living inmates can be quieted 
for this operation by blowing tobacco smoke among 
them. Examine the floor of the hives frequently 
for moth worms, and destroy them. Wren boxes 
put up in the vicinity of the hives will be of much 
service in keeping the parent millers in check.... 
Avoid opening the movable comb hives on cold 
mornings or in chilly weather, lest the brood be 
injured. Neither is it safe to open them in the 
middle of the day, in large apiaires, while the bees 
are flying, as it might expose them to robbery, at 
any time before flowers are yielding a full supply of 
honey... .Leisure time may be improved in making 
or repairing any additional hives or boxes likely 
to be needed during the present season. After 
painting hives, time enough should be given for 
the scent of the paint to pass entirely away before 
introducing a colony. No patent arrangement 
can be of much service to those who cannot 
take time and pains to give proper attention to 
bees. The movable frames arc valuable in facili¬ 
tating many changes, which experienced apiarians' 
find desirable. No arrangement will, of itself, se¬ 
cure a greater yield of honey, although with proper 
management practical beekeepers can prevent 
much loss, and thus increase the profits of the 
apiary..... Those who desire the Italian stock 
should get queens from a reliable source with war¬ 
ranty of their purity. If any black worker-bees 
appear among the progeny, it is evident that the 
queen has coupled with the common drone, and 
the stock is, of course, hybrid. Whoever keeps 
Italians within three miles of the common species 
cannot be sure that his queens have met drones ot 
their own kind, and if he warrants their purity, he 
may have to send several before his agreement is 
fulfilled....The movable comb hive will be found 
most convenient for the Italians, although it is pos¬ 
sible, with more trouble, to use common box hives. 
Select Catalogue of Garden Vegetables. 
The following catalogue of kinds known to be good, 
is prepared for the American A griculturist to enable 
those who have not had much experience, to make 
a selection from the many varieties offered by the seeds¬ 
men. There is as much difference in the quality of the 
varieties of some of the garden-vegetables, as there is in 
that of apples or other fruits. Good seeds of good sorts 
are the prime requisite in a garden, and it is much better 
to be at a little trouble to get them from reliable sources 
than to run the risk of buying a poor article from 
peddlers, or from unreliable variety stores. The post¬ 
age on seeds is only 8 cents a pound. Tiie surest way is 
to send to some of the dealers who advertise with us for 
their catalogues, and order seeds by mail.—This will but 
slightly increase the expense, and enable persons at a 
distance from large dealers to make a selection from their 
extensive stocks. Those marked as new, we have not 
tried, but they are recommended on good authority. 
Beans—Dwabf or Bush: Early Valentine, for string 
or snaps; Yellow Six Weeks, do. do.; Dwarf Horticul¬ 
tural, for early shelling. Pole Beans: Large Lima, 
in warm locations; Small Lima, North of New-York. 
Beets. —Early Bassano, or Early Turnip ; Long Blood, 
for main crop; Swiss Chard, fine for greens only. 
Cabbage.— Early York, small but early ; Early Sugar 
Loaf, and Early Ox Heart,large and early ; Little Pixie, 
a new early sort; Winningstadt, medium early, large, 
very hard heads ; Flat Dutch, for Winter ; Red Dutch, 
for pickling; Marblehead Drumhead, very large ; Green 
Globe Savoy, small, late, the richest of cabbages. 
Carrots.— Early Horn ; Long Orange for main crop. 
Cauliflower. —Early and Half Early Paris, fine ; 
Thorburn’s Nonpareil, superb ; Large Asiatic, fine, late. 
Celery. —Early White Solid, for earliest; Giant White 
Solid, for late crops ; Incomparable Dwarf Crimson, new. 
Corn.— Dwarf Sugar, small ears; Darling’s Early, 
good ; Stowell’s Evergreen, and Asylum Sugar, fine. late. 
Cucumbers.—E arly Russian, small, early, and prolific , 
White Spined, best for table ; Long Green, for pickles. 
Egg Plant. —Long Purple, early ; N. Y. Purple, late. 
Endive. —Green Curled, for summer and fall salads. 
Kale. —Green Curled Scotch, winter and spring greens. 
Kohl-Rabi, or “Turnip Cabbage.” Leek. —Large 
Flag, for soups. Lettuce. —Curled Silesian, for earliest. 
India Head and Ice Drumhead, fine ; Butter, superior. 
Muskmelon. —Fine Nutmeg; Jenny Lind, very early, 
Green Persian, large and good : White Japan, the best. 
Watermelon.— Mountain Sprout, productive and ear¬ 
ly ; Ice Cream, very fine ; Black Spanish, fine but later. 
Onion. —Large Red ; White Portugal; Yellow Danvers. 
Parsnips.—H ollow Crowned. The Student is new. 
Peas,— Daniel O’Rourke, extra early and fine, 2 bi 
feet; Tom Thumb, productive, 8 to 10 inches ; Bishop’s 
Dwarf Prolific, 1 foot; Bishop’s Long Pod, fine dwarf, 
18 inches ; Sangster’s No. 1, 1% feet, fine ; Champion of 
England, for main crop, 5 feet; White Marrowfat, later 
and fine, 5 feet. Many new sorts are introduced this 
season but they need trial in this country. 
Potatoes. —Ash Leaf Kidney, early, productive, and 
good ; Early Cottage, is well recommended; Early 
Dykeman, is the standard sort around New-Vork. 
Radishes.—E arly Scarlet Turnip ; Long Scarlet Short 
Top; Scarlet Chinese Winter, good and keeps late. 
Salsify or Vegetable Oyster, very good. 
Spinach.—R ound Leaved, for early ; Prickly, for winter. 
Squashes.— Summer Crookneck, best early ; Yokoha¬ 
ma, fine, early and late ; Turban, excellent, autumn and 
winter; Boston Marrow, fall; Hubbard, best, keeps well. 
Tomatoes. —Large Round Smooth, early; Fejee, fall 
and winter, fine and productive; Pear Shaped, for pre¬ 
serves, etc. French Tree, late, stocky, curious. 
Turnips —Early Dutch, very early ; Red Top Strap 
leaf, spring and fall; Yellow Swedish, Rutabaga, to keen. 
Winter Cherry.—F or sauce and preserve*. 
