1864] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
181 
and this is the way in which they should be read,— 
not as positive directions, but as suggestions appli¬ 
cable, as the almanacs say, “ about these times.” 
Artichoke.—By this we mean not the sunflower 
like plant which produces a tuber, but one which 
produces a great, thistle-likc, eatable head. It is one 
of the refinements of horticulture; not to be com¬ 
mended except to the curious in such matters. New 
beds may be started from the seed and by offsets 
from old plants. Fork manureinto established beds. 
Asparagus .—Cut as soon as the shoots appear, 
and keep doing so as long as it is considered advis¬ 
able to continue the cutting. In cutting, be care¬ 
ful not to injure the starting buds. The English 
gardeners use a knife with a saw-like edge, as they 
consider this leaves a wound less likely to bleed 
than a smooth cut. If for market, do not send 
it loose, but put it in neat bunches, 4 to 6 inches in 
diameter, according to the season, and cut the 
lower ends square. Tie with two strings, one near 
the top, the other near the bottom, with bass mat¬ 
ting or soft twine. Send this, and indeed every 
other vegetable, to market washed perfectly clean. 
Beans .—If the early plantings have been cut off 
by frost, renew them. Put out tiie poles for run¬ 
ners before planting the seed. As soon as frosts 
are over, set out Limas which have been started in 
sods or pots. It is well known that these or any 
other beans can be readily transplanted to fill defi¬ 
ciencies. We have seen Lima beans successfully 
grown on a trellis of lath, five.feet high, cutting off 
all the runners which came above the trellis and 
keeping the plant dwarf. The experiment is worth 
trying by those who have no poles, , 
Beets. The early sorts should be weeded and 
thinned as soon as large enough to work among. 
From the nature of the beet seed two or three 
plants will grow very close together. In thinning, 
this should be looked out for and only one be 
allowed to grow to the foot. When the plants get 
larger the thinnings make good greens. 
Borecole, or Kafe.-v-This is seldom wanted early. 
Treat for early or late the same as cabbages. 
Brocoli; Brussels Sprouts .—Treat as cauliflower. 
Cabbages .—The early sorts will usually be ready 
to transplant this month. See directions given last 
month. Sow both early and late sorts in the open 
ground. Commence hoeing soon after the plants 
are put out. In setting plants, reject those which 
have lost their centre bud or growing point. We 
would again call attention to the Winningstadt as , 
a superior medium early and late variety. There : 
is no other sort suited better for light soil. 
Capsicums or Peppers.—Do not set out from the 
hot-bed until the weather is thoroughly settled; 
they are very sensitive to cold. Seed for a late 
crop may still be sown in a cold-frame or hot-bed. 
Cardoon is to be treated the same as artichoke. 
Carrots .—If the early sowing was not made last 
month, it should be made at once. As soon as the 
plants can be seen, put a push or missionary hoe, or 
other weeder, through the rows. Thin out as 
early as . the plants can be handled, to from four 
to six inches in the rows. Keep weeding. 
Cauliflower.—See directions on page 116, last 
month. Set out in rich ground as soon as hard 
frosts are over. Hoe often. When growing give 
liquid manure- The best crop we ever saw was 
on a patch from which liqt-beds had been removed. 
Celery .—Follow the directions given last month. 
Cold-Frames .—Remove sash entirely during pleas¬ 
ant days. Give water with the chill off, as needed. 
Compost Heaps .—It is not too early to think of 
accumulating a stock of compost for use next year. 
A good gardener always looks ahead. Have a 
dumping place, convenient of access, and out of 
sight if possible, where refuse animal and vegetable 
matter of all kinds can be deposited. If weeds 
are hoed, as they should be before they make seeds, 
they can be turned to good account here. Begin a 
heap now. There will be the litter from the aspar¬ 
agus and rhubarb beds, the spoiled cabbages, pota¬ 
toes and roots which have not kept well, and a 
great variety of other matter to be added at once. 
Corn .—Plaqt as soon as the soil is warm. A few 
hills may be started on sods in the hot-bed and set 
out near the end of the month. Sec notes on vari¬ 
eties in following pages. 
Cress.—Sow for succession; give, ashes to young 
plants if troubled with insects. 
Cucumbers. —Set out from the hot-bed when dan¬ 
ger of frost is over. It is well then to cover the 
plants at night. A frame of boards covered with 
muslin, or four bricks placed around the plants 
with a pane of glass to cover them, will keep the 
ground Warm during the night. A slight covering, 
even a newspaper thrown over the hill and kept by 
means of sticks from contact with the plant, will 
keep off a smart frost. 
Egg Plant. —Do not transplant from hot-beds un¬ 
til the soil gets well warmed. If they grow too 
large, put them in small pots, or prick out under a 
cold-frame. When set out, give good, warm soil 
and thorough culture. . Liquid manure, applied 
when the earth is moist, will help them. 
Oarlic.-r- Put o.ut sets, or “ cloves,” as they are 
•called, six inches apart, ih about one foot rows. 
Herbs. —Sow in open ground if warm, or under 
•glass. See note on page 111, April Agriculturist. 
Hot-Beds— The plants will now be quite large. 
Set out if the season permits, or pot or prick out 
in a cold-frame. Overgrown plants will receive a 
severe check in transplanting, which it is best to 
avoid by removing them either to pots or another 
bed before they get too large. All the plants must 
be thinned, weeded, and have the soil stirred be¬ 
tween the rows. Keep the sashes off during every 
warm day, but replace them before the soil cools. 
Insects. —In many places a constant fight must be 
kept up. All plants of the cabbage family are apt 
to be attacked while young. A dusting of ashes, 
ashes and plaster, or air-slacked lime, given while 
the dew is on, will keep off most early pests. Entrap 
moths as directed under Orchard and Nursery.! 
Kohl-rabi. —Sow in open ground for main crop. 
The culture is every way the same as for cabbages. 
Leeks.—See Agriculturist for April, on page 109. 
Lettuce.— Transplant from hot-bed and cold-frame. 
Thin that sown in open ground, and sow for suc¬ 
cession. Lettuce intended to head cannot be hoed 
too often. Liquid manure will give large results. 
Liquid Manure. —If preparations are not made for 
this, do it at once. A barrel or cask will do. It 
may be sunk in the ground near a supply of water 
and kept full of an infusion of hen, sheep, or cow 
manure. Some prefer to set up aleach, but the liquid 
first obtained is very strong and needs to be diluted. 
Martynia.— These most excellent pickle's may 
be grown, as shown on page 113, last month. 
Melons. —See article on page 146. Treat the 
early planted melons as directed for cucumbers. 
Mushrooms. —Beds may be started at any time. 
Au article on their culture is given on page 145. 
Mustard. — Sow at intervals for a succession. 
Nasturtiums, or Indian Cress.— These are not only 
useful as furnishing their unripe fruit for pickles, 
but showy and servicable to cover unsightly fences. 
Okra.— Sow when the ground is warm, as direct¬ 
ed on page 116, last month. 
Onions.— If not already done, put in seeds,—tops, 
sets, and potato onions; according to April Calendar. 
Parsley. —The seed is a long while in germinating 
and should have a good soaking in warm water be¬ 
fore sowing. Some gardeners grow it as edgings 
to beds, where it makes a very neat appearance. 
Parsnips. —Sow fresh seed any time this month. 
Peas. —Repeat sowings of early sorts for succes¬ 
sion and put in late sorts, such as Champion of 
England, and the Marrowfats. Put brush to those 
needing it, and keep the crop well hoed, drawing 
earth towards the plants. If a pea vine once falls 
over, it seldom recovers its upright position. 
Potatoes.— Still plant early sorts ; hoe as soon as up. 
Badishes. —Continue to sow in quick, warm soil. 
Dust with ashes if attacked by insects. If many 
worms are found at the roots, destroy the crop at 
once, as it is useless to look for good results. 
Bhubarb. —Never gut, but pull with a sidewise 
twist. Newly established plants should now give a 
full Supply. Allow newly planted all their leaves. 
Salsify.— Sow, if not already done, and cultivate 
thin and weed the same as carrots. Put the 
manure down deep to insure a good crop. 
Sea Kale .—See article on page 116, April number. 
Seeds .—Roots and bulbs intended for seed should 
be put out early, in good soil, always keeping 
the different varieties of the same kind well apart. 
Spinach .—Sow for succession. H.oe, weed, and 
thin that which is already up, as directed last month. 
Squashes .—Treat early sorts as.flireeted for cucum¬ 
bers. The fall and winter kinds Should have a well 
manured soil, as they throw out roots at the joints. 
Give plenty of plaster or air slacked lime while 
young, and when older examine for squash bugs. 
Sweet Potatoes .—Nothing is gained by putting 
them out too early. When grown in a small way 
it is cheapest to buy plants. Directions for start¬ 
ing them are given in April Calendar. 
Tomatoes .—Transplant from hot-bed of cold-frame 
as soon as safe. They cannot stand the least frost. 
If plants in the frame get too large before they can 
be planted out, pot or prick out as directed last 
month. Sow seed for late crop in open ground. For 
early fruit rather poor soil, with sunny exposure. 
Turnips .—Sow early sorts. If worms attack 
the roots destroy the crop and use the ground for 
something else. It is useless to try to grow 
early turnips when worms make their appearance. 
Watermelons .—Read article on page 146. Moun¬ 
tain Sprout is earliest, Ice Cream best, and Black 
Spanish is fine Where the season is long enough. 
Weeds .—A good garden should not show a weed. 
A large garden should for the most part be plant¬ 
ed in rows and cultivated by horse power. Keep 
something in motion which will stir the soil, belt 
cultivator, hoe, or any of the weeding machines. 
Plenty of manure and constant working arc the 
two essentials after good seed has been sown. 
Winter Cherry or Physalis .—'Treat like tomatoes. 
Fruit Garden. 
The planting should have been done last month, 
but if it has been delayed from any cause; the work 
should be vigorously prosecuted at once. 
Blackberries .—If planted now, cut back to within 
six inches of root. Tie up to trellises or stakes. 
' Currants. —Transplant, if possible, before growth 
starts. Set out cuttings, if not already done, as 
directed last month. Keep the soil around estab¬ 
lished bushes loose, and entirely free from weeds. 
Dwarf Trees .—These of all kinds need heading 
back to keep them dwarf and compact. Set 
them where the roots can have all the ground. 
'Grapes .—Secure to the trellis with soft twine, 
lead wire, or some secure fastening. If buds 
have started, handle with great care. As the new 
growth pushes, keep it tied up with bass or other 
soft string. Rye straw makes a cheap and servic¬ 
able material for this purpose. It should be wet¬ 
ted when used. Put out cuttings of those kinds 
which can be propagated in this way. Layering is 
a surer mode of propagation. Preparations can be 
commenced as soon as the buds start. Take a 
strong shoot, which should have been cut back to 
six feet, in February or before, open a trench six 
inches deep and about as wide, and lay the vine ih 
it, using pegs or other means to keep it in a hori¬ 
zontal position at the bottom of the trench. When 
the shoots have made three or four inches of 
growth, select those to be grown, leaving one to 
about a foot, and choose the strongest. Put strong 
stakes to each shoot, and when they have grown 
about a foot, fill soil into the trench enough to 
cover the layered vine about an inch. The trench 
is to have earth added about an inch at a time, at 
intervals of a week Or so, until filled. See preced¬ 
ing numbers for varieties and directions for planting. 
Barberries .—Uncover the canes and tie to stakes, 
as directed last month. Give manure if not done. 
Strawberries .—The bed should have been set out 
last month, but it may be done now. Set plants as 
directed in last month’s Calendar. In hill culture 
the runners should be kept down. If the beds 
have been mulched with straw for the winter and 
it has been left on, according to the practice of 
some of our best cultivators, all that has to be 
done is to pull up the weeds which make their ap¬ 
pearance through it. If there is no mulch, keep 
