1861] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
195 
haustcd by production of seed. Cut the flower- 
stalks as soon as they appear. 
Squashes :—Look under the leaves forsquash bugs, 
hand pick them, and crush their eggs. If a vine 
wilts there is probably a worm in the 6tem near the 
root, search for aud carefully dig him out, cover the 
wound with soil and the vine may recover. Con¬ 
tinue hoeing until the vines get too large. 
Sweet Potatoes .—Keep the ridges, and spaces be¬ 
tween, clear of weeds, moving the vines carefully. 
Tomatoes .—'The large green potato-worm makes 
destructive work, not only with leaves but green 
fruit. Don’t neglect them a day, but catch and kill. 
Pinch the ends of rampant branches, and if training 
is practised, keep them secured to the trellis. 
Transplanting .—Vacant places may be filled. 
Turnips .—Sow White French and Rutabagas. 
Heeds.—These will give plenty of work. See an 
article on use of the “ Iloe and Rake,” on page 211. 
Fraiit CHis-tlcn. 
There is plenty of work to do here in gathering 
the maturing crops, caring tor those which are 
coming on and in combating the weeds. 
Blackberries .—Iloe or keep mulched aud tie up 
the heavy fruiting branches to the trellis. 
Currants .—Weak and useless shoots may be re¬ 
moved. Bushes heavily loaded will need staking. 
Sometimes the season is prolonged by shading a 
few bushes. If the borer appears, cut off and burn 
the infested branches. Mulching is beneficial. 
Dwarf Fruits .—Summer pinching may be prac¬ 
tised to keep the tree in shape, and to help form 
fruit buds. Thin freely, particularly the larger va¬ 
rieties, and keep the trees, especially those planted 
this spring, well mulched. Look out for the pear 
slug and treat as directed under orchard. 
Grapes .—Vines not fruiting need equal care with 
those which are, as it is of great importance to en¬ 
courage a growth of strong, well ripened wood. 
Keep all vines well tied to stakes or the trellis, and 
pinch off the laterals as directed last month (p. 179). 
If not already done, the growth of fruiting canes 
should be stopped by pinching them off at two or 
three leaves beyond the last bunch of fruit. Young 
vines ought not to carry too much fruit, one, or at 
most two, bunches to the spur is enough. Hand¬ 
pick rosebugs and other insects. A well trained 
vine usually has all parts entirely within leach. 
Raspberries .—These are now in full bearing, and 
will need to be picked dai'y. As soon as the crop 
is gathered, cut out the old canes and allow two or 
three canes of the new growth to grow for bearing * 
fruit next season; unless it is wished to propagate 
the variety, all the rest of the shoots are to be de¬ 
stroyed. Black caps are not to be cut away in tins 
nanner as they do not sucker. Keep well hoed. 
Strawberries .—In garden culture, the runners are 
.o be kept pinched off, and after the fruit is picked, 
it is well to fork a good dressing of compost around 
the plants. If plants are needed for making new 
oeds, the runners may be allowed to root until a 
sufficient stock is obtained; then stop them. 
Flower Garden and ILsawts. 
The main things to be done here are those which 
will secure neatness. After the abundance of spring 
flowers is over, many are apt to allow the garden 
and lawn to run into neglect. Weeds appear, 
plants which should be tied up are allowed their 
own way, unsightly flower stalks, from which the 
bloom has fallen, remain, and a general want of care 
is manifest such as no garden should present. With 
proper care, the attractions of the garden may be 
made to last until vegetation is stopped by frost. 
Annuals .—A solving of the quicker growing 
kinds may be made now to give a late bloom. 
Bulbs .—Follow directions given last mouth. 
Carnations .—Make layers and cuttings and keep 
the flower stalks tied up to neat stakes. 
Dahlias .—Those started in pots may still be set 
out. Put out the stake at the same time with the 
plant. They may be trained to a single stem, cut¬ 
ting off the lower branches, or three lower branches 
may bo allowed to grow aud be furnished with 
stakes as they get large enough. Keep carefully 
tied up, or a high wind may destroy the whole plant. 
Forward the plants by use of liquid manure. 
Evergreens .—Prune and do not let the upper 
branches overhang the lower ones. 
Gladiolus .—Provide stakes and tie up as the 
flower stalks show themselves. 
Gravel Walks .—Keep out weeds by use of hoe and 
rake, and put fresh gravel on any thin spots. 
Grass .—The lawn should be mowed often and the 
edges of paths and borders neatly trimmed. Grass 
used for edgings to beds needs the same care. 
ITedges .—Clip into shape and plash or weave 
in the branches to fill up weak places. 
Potted Plants .—These often suffer in hot weather. 
Read article on their treatment on page 209. 
Propagation .—Many of the ornamental shrubs 
may be multiplied from cuttings of the new growth 
set in sandy soil in a shady place, and kept moist. 
Pruning .—If necessary to do this to lawn trees, 
the present is the favorable month 
Rhododendrons .—The hot weather ofsummer is 
often injurious to these. Insure moisture at the 
roots by properly mulching. 
Roses .—The new growth if layered now will form 
plants to be removed next spring. Cut back the 
perpetuals as soon as their first bloom is over. 
Keep the climbing and pillar roses well tied up. 
Apply a solution of whale oil 6oap, 1 pound to 6 
or 8 gallons of water, if the rose slug appears. 
Seeds .—Save the finest flowers for seed. Collect 
as they ripen and label at once. 
Verbenas .—These and other bedding plants need 
pegging down. Layers and cuttings made now will 
root rapidly and give late flowering plants. 
Watering .—If obliged to water, remove the sur¬ 
face soil, apply copiously and replace the dry earth; 
this will keep the surface from forming a crust. 
Weeds .—The hoe and rake and fingers must be 
kept in motion and the weeds have no quarter. 
C!v«eai and I2o{-SIonses. 
All the plants which can endure it are out of 
doors, but those which remain in ought not to be 
neglected. A plenty of air, watering and sprinkling 
must be provided for. Shading will also be needed, 
and may be insured by a muslin screen or by white¬ 
washing the glass. 
Budding .—Whenever the bark of shrubs will lift, 
buds may be inserted. 
Callas .—Repot if necessary and give less water. 
Earth .—Secure a good stock for potting and keep 
it under cover where it may be used on rainy days. 
Insects .—Use the same precautions and means of 
destruction as directed earlier in the season. 
Potting .—Pot rooted cuttings and seedlings be¬ 
fore they are too much drawn up by growing thick¬ 
ly in the seed pans. 
Propagation .—Cuttings of stock for winter bloom¬ 
ing may be put in. Most things root with surpris¬ 
ing ease, without bottom heat, in sand, very wet. 
Poinsetlias .—This is the season of rest with them, 
and they are to be kept quite dry. 
Pruning .—Shrubs need bringing into shape, and 
other plants pinched to make them stocky. 
Cold ©rapery. 
Mulch the outside borders, and if very dry, water 
them with weak liquid manure. Continue to pinch 
laterals and the growth from the ends of shoots, as 
heretofore directed. The berries now increase in 
size and they should be thinned, using a pair of 
grape scissors. Remove enough to prevent crowd¬ 
ing, which will be one-half, more or less, according 
to the variety. If mildew attacks the vines, the 
syringing overhead must be stopped and the air of 
the house kept as dry as possible. It makes its 
appearance in brown 6pots on the leaves, usu¬ 
ally near the larger veins. Sulphur sprinkled 
freely over the floor of the house and dryness of 
the atmosphere arc the remedies. The thermometer 
should stand at 90 to 95 in mid-day, and allowed to 
tail to about 85 during the night. If no mildew ap¬ 
pears, syringing every evening may be continued. 
Apiary ia JaBy. 
Prepared, by M. Quinby—By Request. 
The number of moths about the hives now in- 
creases. They are troubled with an appetite for 
drink, that proves their ruin. Mix together mo¬ 
lasses, vinegar, and water, to make a palatable 
drink, and set in saucers, or plates, among the hives 
at night. Skim out the moths in the morning for 
the chickens, set the liquid away for use the next 
night, adding water as it dries away, renewing it 
when weak. Kill all worms found on the floor, or 
about the corners of the weak colonies. Large 
apiaries are troubled less with the moth, than small 
ones. The Italians resist their attacks much more 
effectually than the natives. Foul brood is also 
much less prevalent with these bees. Wherever it 
exists, it should be attended to at this time. Hives 
can be examined three weeks after the first swarm 
better than any other time—I say first swarm , not 
second or third. All healthy brood at such time 
has matured except a few drones. Cells containing 
the dead larvae, remain sealed after the others are 
empty. To examine the interior of a hi ve for this 
purpose or any other, choose the middle of the day 
Put on some protection from outsiders, if you 
choose, but none of the bees inside will sting if you 
follow directions. First blow under the hire two 
or three puffs of tobacco smoke, immediately turn 
the hive bottom up, drive the bees away fro in the 
bottom with a little more smoke, spread the combs 
apart, aud look among the brood combs for sealed 
cells. Open a few of them with the point of a 
knife; if black and putrid, drive out the bees at 
once. Now while you have it turned over, is just 
the time. Set an empty hive on the stand to amuse 
the bees returning from the fields; put another 
one on the inverted hive, and with a stick, a light 
hammer, ora stone, gently strike the lower hive 
rapidly. In fifteen minutes or less, the bees except 
perhaps a handful, may be driven into the upper 
hive. Set this on the old stand, and all that are 
scattered will soon gather inside to begin house¬ 
keeping anew. Should enough be left in the old 
hive to make it worth while, another hive may be 
set over and more driven out, which may be shaken 
out at the entrance of the new house. Those hav¬ 
ing the movable comb hive, when they wish to 
transfer, have only to lift out the combs, and shake 
the bees out at the entrance of the new or empty 
hive, which should be placed on the old stand, and 
have a wide board or sheet before it, that the bees 
may readily creep directly into it, without flying. 
I would not advise any one to get into the habit of 
smoking, for the sake of managing the bees; it is 
unnecessary. Take a bit of cotton or linen cloth a 
foot square, cover it with tobacco one fourth inch 
thick, roll it up, secure it with a few stitches, set 
fire at one end (it will smoke without blazing,) and 
blow the smoke among the bees. Rags alone, or 
decayed wood, that which will just hold together, 
will burn in the same way, aud will answer in most 
cases, but some of the Italians, especially after be¬ 
ing instated a few times, will not yield for any 
thing weaker than tobacco..Favorable weather 
during fruit blossoms, will have a tendency to bring 
out early swarms that will not only fill the hives, 
but store a good quantity of surplus. When the 
prospect is quite certain of a surplus, there is no 
harm in putting on the boxes only a day or two 
after the bees are hived. If two or more large 
swarms are hived together, the queen will not be 
likely to use the boxes for brood, and they may be 
put on at once. Keep a supply of boxes on hand, 
and change as fast as filled. When taken from the 
hive, if practicable, keep the same 6ide up, and set 
on little sticks for the bees to creep out: at, any 
rate, avoid turning over, further than on the side, 
and keep the sheets of comb vertical; otherwise 
