306 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[November, 
OiTliurd and Smsery. 
The general directions given in October last, for 
the care of fruit, planting trees, etc., will usually 
be timely for the early part at least, of this month. 
There will be a plenty of work for the orchardist 
and nurseryman until the ground is hard frozen. 
Cider. —Continue to make as directed last month. 
It often pays better to convert fruit into cider or 
vinegar than to dispose of it in any other way. 
Cions. —If more convenient to cut them now, it 
may be done, but not until vegetation has wholly 
ceased. Bury in the cellar in slightly moist sand. 
Cellars— If fruit is stored in cellars, provide for 
ventilation ; keep open until in danger of freezing. 
Insects. — Continue to destroy cocoons and eggs. 
Labels. —Have everything correctly labelled, es¬ 
pecially new plautings, or have such a perfect rec¬ 
ord that every tree can be instantly identified. 
Manure. —Spread'a good coating of manure over 
the roots of the trees as far out as they extend. 
Packing Trees.—The best nurserymen use boxes 
altogether, as they are more expeditiously packed, 
are easier handled and the trees go more safely. 
Steamboats often refuse trees packed in straw. 
Stocks. —Take up seedling stocks of apple, pear, 
etc., put them close together in a dry place; cover 
the roots with sufficient earth to exclude frost. 
Seedlings. —Those of ornamental trees, especially 
evergreens, need an inch or two of sand or sandy 
earth sifted over the bed. Give all the half hardy 
kinds a shelter of cedar or other evergreen boughs. 
Cuttings. —Make of currant, quince, and other 
shrubs propagated in this way, and bury them in 
the cellar, or what is better, tie them in bundles, 
and dip the lower ends in mud for one third their 
length and set them in a cool cellar, and if there is 
danger of drying, sprinkle occasionally, as needed. 
Heel in all trees and shrubs which cannot be well 
planted out this season. See article on page 817. 
Plowing. —Turn a furrow against the nursery rows. 
Kitchen Garden. 
As long as the ground is not frozen, something 
can be done to save work in spring. Lay drains 
wherever they will be of benefit. Trench or sub¬ 
soil, and throw stiff soil up into ridges to expose 
it to the action of frosts. Much of the work 
indicated for last month will lap over into this. 
Asparagm.— Make new beds as directed last 
month. Cover old beds well with stable manure. 
Beets, Carrots. —Finish harvest before hard frosts. 
Cabbages.— Put into the trenches, as directed last 
month, or into the cellar. If any young plants re¬ 
main, transplant to cold frames for spring use. 
Celery. —Continue the earthing up. Harvest when 
in danger of freezing; keep as directed last month. 
Compost. —Increase the stock by the addition of 
the refuse accumulated in clearing up the garden. 
Cold Frames.—See directions on page 286 (Oct.) 
Put in cabbage, cauliflowers, lettuce, and all plants 
requiring protection. Give air on every warm 
day and bank up and cover as the cold increases. 
Onions. —Give those left in the ground over win¬ 
ter a cover of litter. Ventilate those stored. 
Parsnips and Salsify. —Leave the main crops in 
the ground ; dig enough for use when these are 
not accessible and preserve in sand in the cellar. 
Poles, Stakes, Frames, and all kinds of wooden 
appliances and implements are to be under cover. 
Rhubarb.— Make new beds from divisions of the 
old roots—each piece should have a bud. Set in 
rich ground and cover the bed with coarse manure. 
Spinach. —Cover lightly with litter, against cold. 
Turnips may grow until in danger of freezing. 
Fruit Garden. 
The directions given in October may in the main 
be followed as long as the soil can be worked. 
Planting may continue, or if the soil is not thor¬ 
oughly prepared, heel in the trees and vines and 
devote the time to deepening and enriching the 
Boil and have it ready for early spring planting. 
Blackberries may be set as directed last month. 
Currants and Gooseberries. —Set out rooted plants. 
Make Cuttings as directed under orchard and nur¬ 
sery. Old bushes may have a dressing of manure. 
Dwarf Trees .—Apple and pear trees may still be 
planted. Thrifty well grown trees 3 or 4 years from 
the bud are preferable to old and overgrown ones. 
Figs .—Protect them as directed on page 295 (Oct.) 
Grape Fines.—Plant in deeply worked, good, but 
not over rich, soil. The Grape Notes in successive 
numbers give our estimate of the different varie¬ 
ties. For a selection of six we should take Dela¬ 
ware, Concord, Creveling, Iona, Allen’s Hybrid, 
and Diana. If more are needed, Union Village, for 
its wonderful size and beauty, Hartford Prolific for 
early and prolific bearing. The Israella deserves 
trial, and so does the Adirondac. Vines one or two 
years old from the bud are preferable to older ones. 
Prune this month and lay down the vines, and in 
cold localities cover them with earth for winter. 
Raspberries .—Set out roots. Bend down canes of 
old plants of all good kinds, and cover with earth. 
Strawberries .—Cover the beds with straw, litter or 
leaves before severe weather. Cover the crowns of 
the plants but slightly, so as not to smother them. 
Flower Garden and Lawn. 
There is still work here, but it consists in clearing 
up and in preparation for next season. Any 
changes in the plan of the grounds or laying out 
of new improvements can be done at this season. 
Bulbs. Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses, and other 
spring bulbs may be set as directed last month. 
Before the ground freezes take up Gladiolus, Tigri- 
dia, Amaryllis and others planted in spring. Dry 
aud store in a cool, dry place out of reach of mice. 
Climbers .—The tender ones, like Wistaria, will 
need to be laid down in northern localities, and 
protected by a covering of earth. 
Chrysanthemums .—When frost has finally destroy¬ 
ed their beauty cut away and remove the old stalks. 
Dahlias .—Take up before freezing weather. Lift 
the roots carefully and do not break them from the 
main stem. Do this on a fine day, let them remain 
a few hours in the sun, and store them where they 
will not freeze—under the stage of the green¬ 
house, or in boxes of dry sand in the cellar. Any 
plan that will keep potatoes will preserve dahlias. 
Hedges .—Those of deciduous shrubs may be set 
now in well prepared soil. A hedge of dwarf pears 
planted two feet apart makes an appropriate division 
between a fruit and other garden, and is fruitful 
as well as ornamental. Clip like other hedges. 
Frames and Pits .—All half-hardy plants, such as 
roses, carnations, etc., are to be placed here and 
have plenty of air when the weather permits. Di¬ 
rections are given bn page 286 (October number.) 
Lawns .—In laying out new ones, manure, plow, 
and subsoil, grade, level and roll. Seeding had 
now better be left until early spring. Rake the 
leaves from established lawns, apply a good top 
dressing of compost, and if the soil is light, roll. 
Perennials —Pteonies, Phloxes, etc., may be reset. 
Roses .—The tender sorts can be set in a cool pit 
or be heeled in and their tops covered with sandy 
soil or with coal ashes. Lay down the climbers 
and pillar roses, and cover lightly with earth. 
Protection .—Give tender perennials a covering of 
manure over the roots. Wind a cord around 
Swedish junipers and such spire-like evergreens, 
to keep snow from breaking them down. Provide 
a shelter of cedar boughs or a rough thatch of 
straw for the more tender kinds of Rhododendrons, 
for Mahonias, and other broad-leaved evergreens. 
Transplant all hardy deciduous trees and shrubs. 
Green anul IIot-BIonses. 
The varying weather will require care as to tem¬ 
perature. In the Green-house, where things are 
not expected to grow, 85° to 45 p will do. In the 
hot-house it may range from 60° to 75°, and even 
higher according to the character of the plants. 
The amount of watering will depend upon the tem¬ 
perature. In those houses where the plants are 
kept in a state of rest, but little will be needed. 
Ventilation should be given freely, whenever the 
outside temperature will allow the sash opened. 
Bulbs.—A good stock is to be potted for winter 
flowering. They may be kept in a cool place and 
brought into a warmer one a few at a time, and 
thus keep up a regular succession of Hyacinths, 
Tulips, Ixias, Oxalis, and other bulbs in bloom. 
Camellias. — Syringe frequently. Place some 
where there they will come into flower early, and 
retard others as much as possible. 
Fires need cautious management. The plants 
should not be given too high a temperature at once 
nor allowed to be too cool. 
Insects .—Most of these revel in a warm moist at¬ 
mosphere. Meet them at the start. Syringing, 
hand-picking and fumigation are the chief tactics. 
Propagating .—A stock of all the rapidly gro wing 
things, such as Cupheas, Pelargoniums, Salvias, 
etc., put in now will soon make flowering plants. 
Cold Grapery. 
If fruit still remains upon the vines, remove de¬ 
caying berries. Keep the house as dry as possible, 
closing the ventilators only in damp weather. 
Apiary in IVovcmbcr. 
Prepared, by ill. Quinby—By Request. 
When a proper selection of stocks for winter has 
been made, there will be no bees inclined to rob. 
There is little to be done now, unless something 
has been neglected. If, from timidity, any one has 
been deterred from making a thorough examination 
of his hives, he may remember that the first severe 
freezing seems to chill them more than zero weath¬ 
er in January, and he would do well to take advan¬ 
tage of this period to investigate the condition of 
his stocks. Such as cannot be wintered, for want 
of stores, should be taken up, even now. That 
kindness is sadly misdirected, which would save 
the lives of the bees now, and let them starve and 
freeze, before spring, for want of sufficient numbers 
to keep one another warm. If desirable, hives 
may be painted now, with but little detriment to 
the bees in them. Those intended for swarms 
another year, are much better painted now, than in 
the spring, for hives recently painted are often de¬ 
serted. Either do it long beforehand, that tire rank 
odor may be entirely gone before they are used, or 
do not paint them at all. The glass surplus boxes 
not filled should be set away in some dry place for 
another year. Set them right side up to keep out 
the mice, and in a place cold enough to freeze and 
destroy the eggs of the moth, that may be in them. 
Farm Produce Markets—Gold. 
(Oct. 17)—The markets for all kinds of produce, and 
particularly for breadstuff's, continue in a very unsettled 
state. The prices of flour and wheat have varied greatly 
during a month past. The fall of gold from 230, to 1S5 at 
one time, produced a panic among grain speculators, 
especially at the West, which toppled over some of the 
largest operators. Breadstuff's, butler, cheese, petrole¬ 
um and gold are the chief products exporLed to pay 
for foreign importations. Gold being Ihe basis of ex¬ 
change, the other articles rise and fall with it in value, 
and this must continue to be the case until gold and the 
legal currency become nearly of equal value. The 
prospect for a time was, that gold would continue to de¬ 
cline under the more favorable military prospects that 
have prevailed for some time past. But this was rapidly 
carrying down the currency values of all kinds of imported 
merchandise as well as of the exportable articles above 
named, and other home products sympathized with for¬ 
eign goods in price. Importers and dealers generally 
who have considerable stocks on hand are therefore 
deeply interested In keeping up the price of gold to the 
highest possible point, and they are purchasing and hold¬ 
ing or exporting all they can command. As gold is lim¬ 
ited in amount, it is the more easily controlled, and Its 
fall in price involves less loss than a like decline in their 
larger stock of goods and produce. These dealers can 
well afford, if thoroughly combined, to buy gold enough 
to keep the price up to 300 or more, until their present 
stocks of goods and produce are worked off. The above 
causes, with a lull in active military operations and suc¬ 
cesses, while the new recruits to the armies are being 
drilled and placed in position, have enabled operators to 
carry gold up again to 215, and it may temporarily go 
higher. If the grand military successes so confidently 
expected by most people should be soon realized, gold 
will go down with a rush, and the prices of all other 
commodities with it, unless the above combination shall 
be so complete as to keep gold up for a short season 
