AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
103 
CROSS’ PATENT GRAPE FRAME. 
Above we present cuts to illustrate a sim¬ 
ple and convenient arrangement for trailing 
grape vines upon a movable frame, in such a 
manner as to admit of changing the position 
of the vines at pleasure. Fig. 2, gives an 
end-view of the frame, and shows at once 
the method of bending the vine upon the 
ground, and how it may be elevated to a per¬ 
pendicular or to any desired angle. Fig. 1, 
shows two such frames placed upon each 
side of an upright supporting shaft. In the 
frame A, we see the fruit exposed to the sun. 
Through an error in mat ing the cut, we see 
the fruit on the upper side of A, instead of 
the under side, as it should be. The fruit 
should be represented upon the upper or 
right hand side of B. 
Mr. Cross claims several advantages for 
this kind of frame, among which are the 
following : The fruit can, by this means, be 
grown near the soil, and then be raised up to 
the sun. He recommends that the vines be 
left in the position indicated by C, Fig. 2, 
until the grapes get their growth, “ because 
the ground is shaded ; the rose bug is not as 
injurious ; the fruit is not as liable to mil¬ 
dew ; it is not so exposed to blasting winds ; 
it sets in greater abundance ; and the grapes 
being protected and warmed by nearness to 
the ground, grow larger and faster and ma 
ture earlier.” 
We think that at least part of the advan¬ 
tages are secured ; one or two of them are 
doubtful, and we invite discussion upon 
them. During the recent State Show, we 
examined a model, exhibited by Mr. Cross, 
and were so well pleased with it that we 
procured the above engraving for our readers. 
This method of grape raising was patented 
by Mr. S. Oscar Cross, of Sandy Hill, 
Washington County, N. Y., on the 27th of 
June, of the present year, and we refer to 
him all those who may wish to make further 
inquiries. 
FORCING BULBS, AS HYACINTHS, ETC. 
- « - 
BY A LONDON AMATEUR FLORIST. 
Fob many years it has been a favorite 
object with me to have a fine bloom of forced 
bulbs, such as hyacinths, &c., both in glasses 
and pots, and now, the season for commenc¬ 
ing operations having arrived, induces me to 
note down a few particulars which I have 
practised ; and, as to the result, have never 
failed to have a most brilliant display of these 
lovely flowers, affording me their varied 
beauties and fragrance, as additional charms 
to domestic comforts, at a season of the year 
which often precludes similar out-door enjoy¬ 
ments. 
HYACINTHS IN GLASSES. 
In selecting bulbs, take the plump and 
firm ones, the more globular the better, being 
the most perfect. 
The bulbs should be placed in dark colored 
glasses, filling them no higher with water 
than about an inch from the bulb, wrap the 
glass and bulb closely round with a piece of 
old flannel; they must then be put in a mod¬ 
erately warm closet, or other dark place, 
for two or three weeks, bv which time they 
will have emitted roots, and should be re¬ 
moved to an airy, light, and cool situation, 
till about Christmas, when they may be 
brought into the warm sitting-room, and 
placed near the windows. The attention to 
placing them in the dark, arises from the 
fact that, where light has free access, leaves 
will immediately be produced, as it is con 
genial to their nature ; but it is the opposite 
with roots, and where full light exists, they 
will not push forward. Kept in the dark, 
roots push freely, and having obtained them 
first, leaves and flowers will certainly follow'. 
When they are removed to a light situation, 
the glasses may be filled up to the lips of the 
roots, and in a week afterwards up to the 
bulb. Rain or river water is to be preferred, 
and should be changed every two or three 
weeks, the fresh water being applied about 
the same temperature as that removed. 
Should the water in either of the glasses be¬ 
come foul sooner than the others, the roots 
and the under part of the bulb will generally 
be found covered with decayed substance, 
which should be removed, and the whole 
plant washed. Should off-sets appear around 
the bulb they should be removed early. As 
soon as the Hyacinths are overblown, the 
blossoms should be stripped off, without de¬ 
stroying the leaves or stem, and the plant 
laid in the earth until June, when they may 
be taken out and laid upon shelves or boxes, 
in an airy situation, until October, when, 
though not fit for blooming a second season 
in water, they will produce fine blossoms in 
the open ground, and by thus saving annual 
ly the bulbs which have been forced, and their 
numerous off-sets, a beautiful Hyacinith bed, 
of every shade and color, may be obtained, 
which is one of the most pleasnng objects in 
the months of April and May. I repeat that 
the errors too often observable in growing 
Hyacinths in water are : placing them in the 
full light when first planted, which is verv 
unfavorable to the growth of the roots ; 
keeping them away from the light when 
throwing up the leaves and blossoms, which 
prevents their coming to their natural colors ; 
placing them (before the leaves and stems 
are sufficiently advanced) upon a chimney- 
piece or other very warm place, which 
spends two much of the bulb in fibrous roots, 
and forces up the blossoms before they arrive 
at their proper size, form or color. 
Hyacinths, Narcissuses', Jonquils, Tulips, 
Persian Irises, and other bulbs for early 
blooming in pots, (without any hot-beds or 
green-houses,) should be planted early in 
September, for which purpose deep-shaped 
flower pots should be procured, called bulb 
pots, placing crocks or coarse gravel at bot¬ 
tom for drainage, and be filled to within two 
inches of the top with rich loam, containing 
a portion of fine road sand and decayed ma¬ 
nure ; and then place the bulb on the same, 
without pressure in so doing, and fill to the 
top with the same compost, after which a 
little pressure should be used, which will set¬ 
tle the bulb and mould firmly together, with 
the top of the bulb just above the surface of 
the soil. 
When the desired number of roots have 
been thus potted, they should be removed to 
any spare corner of the garden, and buried, 
to the top of the pots in the earth, when they 
must be covered ivith leaves, rotten tanner’s 
bark, or any other light dry substance to the 
depth of nine or ten inches, where they re¬ 
main without any attention until the plants 
will be found to have vegetated an inch or 
two; they should then be removed, and 
placed in any warm and light situation, where 
they will make rapid progress, and produce 
blossoms far superior to those obtained by 
other modes of treatment. 
