214 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST). 
of the posterior off teat, and that a veterina¬ 
ry surgeon in this town had cut it off prior to 
calving. At present there is the remains of 
the wart, occupying the very end and center 
of the teat where the milk comes out, and 
only the smallest point of a probe can be got 
mto it, but no milk can be got out. 
I thought the only plan was to slough it 
out, for which purpose I introduced a small 
portion of Hyd. Bichlor. for three consecu¬ 
tive days, having previously drawn the milk 
off with a sharp pointed teat tube. 
In the course of sixor seven days it slough¬ 
ed off on the tube on withdrawing it, and 
then the milk came pretty fre'ely away, and 
she did well without any further trouble. 
Observations. —We are not unfrequently 
called in to attend cows when there are ob¬ 
structions in their teats, and on handling 
them we discover small tumors of about the 
size of a pea. They appear to occupy some 
part of the cavity of the teat, and as if they 
were formed within or on its lining mem¬ 
brane, and slightly moveable. In other cases 
the center of the tube, in various degrees, 
seems indurated and closed up, and has a 
corded feel; and in my neighborhood as I 
before stated, this obstruction goes by the 
name of being “ thunked” (from like a thong 
I fancy). 
In the first instance the milk will some 
times gradually pass below the obstruction 
and accumulate in the lower part of the teat,; 
but as soon as it is removed no more can be 
obtained until it accumulates again. Some¬ 
times the obstruction is not so great but 
that the milk can, with great difficulty and 
patience, be removed entirely from the od¬ 
der, but in other cases it too frequently hap¬ 
pens that the sides of the tube have united 
together, and completely obliterated the pas¬ 
sage so as to admit the milk to pass, and of 
course the quarter will be useless, and the 
retention of the milk will very likely bring 
on mammitis. 
Mr. W. C. Sibbald, veterinary surgeon, 
Biggleswade, in his Prize Essay, and inserted 
m the “Journal of the Royal Agricultural 
Society,” says that, “ not unfrequently the 
flow of the milk through one or more of the 
teats is obstructed by a small moveable tu¬ 
mor or tumors, about the size of peas, des¬ 
cending into the passage. A small metallic 
probe should be passed up the teat, which 
will push them back into the udder, and they 
will often remain there without causing any 
further inconvenience.” Now, in these 
cases, the tumors must have been greatly 
pedunculated to admit of their being forced 
mto the udder, or they must have been lac¬ 
teal calculi. 1 can not say lhat I ever met 
with a case in point, but the observation is 
well worth our notice. 
Veterinarian.j W. A. CARTWRIGHT, V. S. 
For the American Agriculturist. 
THE TREATMENT OF GRASS-LAND FOR CORN. 
As your columns are devoted to the inter¬ 
ests of Agriculture, I give you what I think 
the best mode of treating sward-land which 
has been mowed many years, before planting 
corn. My method is, to plow a sward in the 
field, and in the winter to draw the manure 
and place it in piles, offifteen or twenty loads 
each, so as to be convenient at the time of 
planting. At the opening of spring I cause 
the manure to be turned, in order that it may 
ferment before being spread. Having har¬ 
rowed and cross-plowed the ground, I fur¬ 
row both ways, and then apply the manure, 
by dropping a shovel-full in each hill, which 
takes about fifteen loads to the acre. If the 
soil be of a clayey nature, I have found this 
mode of treatment to yield, by actual meas¬ 
urement, more corn than forty-five loads 
spread broad-cast. I should say that the 
corn is covered up with the manure. No 
crop will pay better than this if the soil be 
properly treated ; but if the labor be scanted 
it will feel it most essentially. 
Fall freezing is a benefit to stiff sward ; 
but if the plowing is not done in the fall, 
early spring plowing is recommended, so that 
when the soil is quite wet, it may have the 
benefit of freezing nights. ‘ E. Sherman. 
Orange County. 
ffriniltral Jeprtwent 
THE FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
BY AN AMATEUR. 
There are few accessories of the home¬ 
stead more important than a good fruit and 
vegetable garden ; no home is perfect with¬ 
out them. If there is one thing more than 
another which adds to the comforts of a 
poor man’s cottage, it is a well-kept garden, 
in its largest sense ; nay, it is a luxury, even 
to millionaire. A well-regulated house with¬ 
in, and a well-kept garden without, make up 
much of the sum of human happiness. How 
few such there are ! The garden is too gen¬ 
erally looked upon as something to minister 
to the mere appetite; but, when rightly re¬ 
garded, it exercises a moral and intellectual 
influence which gives it a strong claim to 
the serious consideration of all who feel any 
concern in the ultimate destiny of the human 
race. Horticultural pursuits, above all 
others, bring into healthy play those powers 
of body and mind, the mutual exercise of 
which alone can keep up that just equilibrium 
of the physical, Intellectual, and moral 
forces, which makes the true man. 
1 will now submit a few practical remarks 
on what may be called the Cottage Vegeta¬ 
ble Garden, or rather, Fruit and Vegetable 
Garden; for, on a limited plot, they ought 
not to be separated. There is no good rea¬ 
son why a man with three or four city lots, 
each 25 by 100 feet, should not indulge the 
luxury of a few choice fruits, equally with 
him who owns his acres. 
Tn what follows, it is supposed lhat the 
lots run north and south, the house being 
built on the north front, and the flower-gar¬ 
den separated from the vegetable by a rose- 
trellis the full width of the lots - The flower- 
garden and lawn willoccupy another article. 
Let us suppose a man has four lots of 
ground, two of which are taken up with a 
house, lawn, flower-garden, &c. He will 
then have a plot 50 by 100 for a fruit and 
vegetable garden. Now it will not do to use 
half of this up with walks—a thing quite too 
common. 
Beginning at the rose-trellis, lay off a cen¬ 
tral walk four feet wide, through the length 
of the garden ; then, immediately behind the 
rose-trellis, lay off a grape-border ten feet 
wide, and parallel with this walk three feet 
wide, stopping three feet short of each side- 
fence ; then, parallel with these, a walk three 
feet wide; then a central walk four feet wide, 
through the width of the garden, and a walk 
three feet wide close to the south fence. 
This arrangement will make four large cen¬ 
tral beds, each 40 by 17 feet, besides the 
borders. The beds and borders should be 
edged with box, kept closely cut. The 
whole garden should be trenched two or 
three feet deep. To make the walks, dig 
out the soil three feet deep ; fill in with stones 
about one foot, and cover them with stout 
brush; then put it in the soil, and finish with 
about six inches of coarse sand or gravel, 
raising the walks a little in the middle. Roll 
them from time to time till they become set¬ 
tled ; a good coating of salt will help to make 
them hard, and keep them free from weeds. 
Walks thus made will keep your feet dry, 
and your beds tolerably well drained—the 
latter an object which should never be lost 
sight of, especially where early fruit and 
vegetables are desired. There are some 
matters connected with grading and levelling, 
which must be determined by the circum¬ 
stances of each particular case. Lastly, 
there should be some eighteen inches of good 
soil, of which sod mould is the very best. 
No amateur can hope to have a good garden, 
pleasantly worked, unless every thing is 
properly prepared from the beginning ; hence 
these particulars. 
Now let us see what permanent “fixtures” 
are wanted. Four feet from the rose-trellis, 
put it in a row of posts, six or seven feet 
high and eight feet apart, upon which stretch 
four stout wires. Plant, a grape vine be¬ 
tween each post, and keep them well pruned, 
on the eane system. Eschew all charlatans 
and humbugs, whether in the shape of men 
or vines, and among the latter especially, 
the Charter Oak. The walk, if made as di¬ 
rected, will keep this border well drained— 
a matter of much moment where well-flavored 
grapes are desired. Two or three loads of 
gravel, incorporated with the soil, would 
make it still more congenial to the grape. 
Between each vine, and some three feet from 
the box edging, put in a rhubarb plant, aHd 
under it a good heap of manure. This is a 
good arrangement, notwithstanding some 
may object to it. In the center of this bor¬ 
der, where the wide walk intersects it, a sum¬ 
mer-house may be erected. 
In the border along the east fence, plant 
the blackberry, some three or four feet apart. 
In the west border, plant the raspberry, at 
about the same distance. It would be well, 
however, to reserve a portion of the west 
border for a few plants of sage, parsley, 
thyme, &c. 
There now remain the four large beds, the 
borders of which may be occupied with 
dwarf fruit trees ; no others should ever be 
grown in a garden, and by no means plant 
them in an auger-hole. I would recommend 
chiefly pears ; but, for the sake of variety, a 
couple of plums, apricots, cherries, quinces, 
&c.,may be added. These should be planted 
in the border of the large beds, about three 
feet from the box edging, and some eight feet 
apart. Between each tree a currant or 
gooseberry bush may be planted; these 
should be raised from cuttings, grown to a 
single stalk, and regularly winter-pruned. 
This mode of planting is good in itself, and 
leaves all but the border of the large beds for 
vegetables, strawberries, &c. One bed may 
be occupied with strawberries and aspara¬ 
gus, but the latter must be kept three or four 
feet from the fruit trees. 
Having disposed of the principal perma¬ 
nent arrangements, let us look for a moment 
at such vegetables as will have to be raised 
annually. For this purpose we have left 
three of the large beds. It is taken fays 
granted that a good supply of Avell-prepared 
barn-yard manure has been procured, as 
well as a set of steel ^garden implements, 
which latter should always be kept as bright 
as a new penny. First make up your mind 
what you will grow, and how much of it. 
Then spread on a good coating of manure, 
and spade twelve inches deep. It is surpris¬ 
ing to a novice how much can be grown on 
a given surface. Beets, carrots, salsify, 
parsnips, lima beans, and some others, will 
occupy the ground the whole season. Beets 
should be sown thick, in drills six inches 
apart, each alternate row to be used for 
greens, as well as the thinnings of the others. 
Between the carrots, &c., radishes may be 
sown. Lettuce, radishes, &c., may be sown 
in the raspberry and blackberry borders. 
Peas should be sown in double drills six 
inches apart, at intervals of three feet. Be¬ 
tween the peas may be planted beets for 
greens, radishes, spinach, lettuce, &c., mak 
ing two drills of each. The peas will come 
