AMERICAN AGrRJLC ULTUIIIST. 
133 
Insects—Destroy codling moth, curculio, scale, slugs, 
&c., according to directions on another page. 
Layering and Inarching—Attend to m. 1. See chapter 
on grape culture. 
Mulch—Continue around newly planted trees. 
Peach Trees—Examine and remove borers. Thin 
fruit m. 1. where too abundant. 
Pear stocks—Commence budding m. 11. if growing 
vigorously. 
Plum Trees—Cut out all black knots, and watch care¬ 
fully for the appearance ofthe curculio. See “ Insects,” 
on another page. 
Pruning may be performed lightly 11. but mostly next 
month. 
KITCHEN AND FRUIT GARDEN. 
Much needs doing this month, such as the replanting 
grounds where seeds have failed, and in some cases even 
the first planting of a crop has not been done. The gar¬ 
dener is already reaping the rewards of a portion of his 
toil, being in market with his early vegetables. The 
grounds upon which some of these were raised maybe 
cleared, and a crop of late vegetables planted. Hoeing, 
weeding and thinning are important labors for the month, 
and require unremitting toil. 
Asparagus—Keep beds free from weeds, cutting only 
until the middle of the month. 
Beans—Early kinds and even Lirnas may be planted ff. 
Beets—Sow ff. for Summer and Autumn use, and f. mm. 
for Winter. Hoe, weed and thin early plantings. 
Blackberries and Raspberries—Keep staked and the 
ground loose and free from weeds. Do not injure the 
young shoots which are for next year’s bearing. 
Cabbage—Plant out for late f. m. Hoe former plantings 
and search for cut worms. Renew any plants which 
have been destroyed. 
Cardoon—Sow ff. Plant f. m. 
Carrots may still be sown ff. Hoe and thin those sown 
last month. 
Cauliflower—Treat as cabbage. 
Celery—If not done last month, plant ff. shading from 
the sun. 
Corn—Plant f. m. 1. for succession. The last planting 
may be among early potatoes or crops soon to come off. 
Cress—Sow f. m. 1. 
Cucumbers—Sow^T. for late. Dust with black pepper, 
soot, lime or guano, to prevent the ravages of the striped 
bug ; or cover with cloth frames. 
Egg-Plant—Put out ff. for Autumn crop, planting beans 
or radishes between the rows. 
Gooseberries—Keep well hoed and dust the bushes with 
sulphur if affected with mildew. 
Herbs—Cut and dry when in full flower. 
“Hoeing is both rain and manure,” which are indes- 
pensable articles in the kitchen garden. The man who 
hoed his cabbages every day to beat his neighbor was 
surprised to find the plants of the latter kept ahead of 
his own. The secret was his neighbor hoed twice a day. 
Insects—Wage incessant war against them, especially 
those preying upon fruit. See article elsewhere. 
Lettuce— Sow and plant f. m. 1. among other crops. 
Melons—Plant ff. if not completed last month. The 
middle of the month is soon enough to plant for pickles. 
Okra—Plant ff. if not done. 
Onions—Hoe, weed and thin ff. m. 1. 
Parsneps—Weed and thin ff. m. 
Peas—Sow f. m. 1. for succession. Earth up and stick 
or bush early varieties ff. 
Potatoes—Hoe ff. Arrange vines of sweet varieties. 
Pumpkins—Plant ff. on well manured soil. 
Radishes—Sow f. m. 1. among beets and between the 
rows of other vegetables. 
Raspberries—Treat as Blackberries. 
Salsify—Hoe and thin ff. m. 
Spinach—Sow ff. m. Hoe and cut former sowings. 
Squashes—Plant ff m. Protect from striped bug by 
dusting black pepper on the leaves while wet with dew. 
Straw berries—Clean and straw the beds ff. m. Water 
in dry weather. Read chapter VI, in present number. 
Thinning—Attend to generally. Inexperienced persons 
usually are ambitious to raise much from little ground, 
and leave their vegetables too thick. They can only at¬ 
tain a small size and the yield is proportionally small. 
Tomatoes—Plant out ff. m. for late crop. 
Turnips—Sow a few f. m. 1. for Summer use. At the 
North the main crop may be sown 11. 
Weeds should all be eradicated either by hand or with 
the hoe. Besides an unsightly, slovenly appearance, 
they impoverish the soil, and if not disturbed, will sow a 
crop for succeeding years. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 
The Flower Garden, if properly cared for last month, 
will now show a profusion of blooms, especially if Green 
and Hot Houses, Conservatories or Parlors, have con¬ 
tributed from their shelves. Roses will lend their beauty 
Ntd fragrance, Carnations lift their showy heads, while 
the modest Violet, many colored Verbenas and bright 
scarlet Pelargoniums in gay masses attract the eye. 
Fuchsias. Cinerarias, and the early blooming Annuals, 
interspersed here and there with hardy Azaleas, Deutzias, 
Syringas, Spireas, Peonias, not omitting the delicately 
suberb Dielytra Spectabilis, and a multitude of other her¬ 
baceous plants and shrubsunite theircharms to enliven 
the scene; to which add the lively shade of evergreens, 
the varied colors and freshness of deciduous trees, now 
clothed with luxuriant foliage, and we have a picture 
which maybe contemplated with unfailing delight. There 
is, however, work to be done. 
Annuals.will require thinning, weeding and transplant¬ 
ing. A few may still be sown on vacant grounds, or to 
take the place of flowers nearly out of bloom. 
Asters—Sow ff. and transplant those put in last month. 
Box Edging may be planted ff. but May was a better 
month. "Trim f. if not already done. 
Bulbs—These are mostly out of bloom, and a portion of 
them may be lifted m. 11. If the bed was made anew last 
fall they may all remain the present season, at least. 
None should be taken up until the leaves have decayed 
whio.li will be in four to six weeks after flowering. After 
lilting, cover for a few days with sand or dry earth, pre¬ 
vious to packing away in boxes or on shelves. Sow the 
ground with annuals or plant from former sowings. 
Carnations—Keep the flower stalks neatly tied to 
stakes, and shade from mid-day sun. Layer and put in 
cuttings to keep up a stock, selecting cloudy weather for 
this operation. 
Dahlias—Plant out ff. m. and stake as required. 
Evergreens may still be transplanted ff. m., watering 
at the tune if the ground is dry, and give a mulch of straw 
or litter to each tree and shrub. 
Gladiolus—Plant ff if not done last month 
Grass—Mow Lawns frequently, and shear edgings. 
Gravel—Weed and rake walks, adding new gravel 
where necessary. 
Hedges—Clip m. 1. cutting evenly with pruning shears. 
Mignonette—Sow and plant ff 
Oranges, Lemons and Oleanders—Bring from houses 
ff. and either plant in borders, or set the tubs or boxes in 
situations partially sheltered from the wind. 
Pelargoniums and Verbenas—Plant in masses or on 
borders ff. m. 
Pinks—Layer and plant cuttings f. m 
Potted Plants—Many of these wili now be brought from 
the houses and may be planted on the borders or arranged 
in groups where the wind will not blow them over. If 
left standing in pots water frequently. 
Roses will commence blooming in the open grounds f. 
m. and many brought from the houses are already in full 
flower Propagate by budding 11. on new grow th, inarch¬ 
ing and layering at the same time. Destroy slugs with 
whale oil soap, or tobacco water, syringing freely. The 
rose bug willbe offended by the application and leave in 
disgust 
Water—Give to all newly planted shrubs and trees, if 
dry weather sets in. 
GREEN AND HOT HOUSE. 
As most of the plants are now In the open grounds very 
little is to be done in the houses. The plants them¬ 
selves, however, need much care and are particularly re- 
fered to, under “ Flower Garden and Lawn.” Some 
plants still remain inside and needplenty of air and water. 
Camellias may be carried out, but in large collections 
where a house is devoted expressly to these plants they 
usually remain on the shelves. The house needs air ng 
thoroughly each day, if indeed it is closed at all. Turn 
the plants to secure an upright growth and syringe fre¬ 
quently, guarding against the approach of insects. 
Cuttings of succulent and herbaceous plants may be put 
in, shading from the sun and covering with glass where 
practicable. 
Grapes—See chapter on another page by a practical 
grower. 
Inarch choice specimens which will not strike readily 
from cuttings. 
Insects—These will constantly make encroachments 
within the houses, and fix lodgments for rearing their 
young broods. Destroy them by syringing the whole 
house, forcing the water violently against the walls, fumi¬ 
gating with tobacco and collecting by hand. It is far 
easier to destroy a few now, than whole broods when the 
plants are ready to be brought in, later in the season. 
Potting of some plants may still be done and a shift to 
larger pots will in many cases be needful. 
Roses—Plant in borders ff for Summer blooming. Pot 
off seedlings, placing in shade, out of doors. Syringe for 
slugs as directed for pear and cherry trees elsewhere 
Water those plants remaining in pots daily and in some 
cases both morning, and evening. After rains if water 
is observed to stand upon the surface, turn the pot on its 
side and examine its drainage which will be found de¬ 
fective. and need rearranging. 
THE APIARY IN JUNE. 
BY M. QUINBY. 
As soon as the bees begin to cluster outside the hive, it 
is time to put on boxes for surplus honey. If crowded 
outside, the boxes will not prevent swarming. Most o( 
the swarm will issue in this month, except in northern 
latitudes. They usually leave the hive between 10 o’clock 
A M. and 2 o’clock P. M , but sometimes as early as 7 
o'clock and as late as 5 o'clock. When they issue, the 
tin-pan music to make them cluster may be dispensed 
with as well as all sorts of sweet herbs rubbed inside the 
hive, to make them like it ; have it clean and hive them 
immediately. As soon as they are in, carry the hive to its 
stand—let the back side rest on the bottom board, raise the 
front side half an inch. Protect from the sun a few days. 
The first swarm from a hive is usually large enough for 
a good colony ; two such, (when many stocks are kept,) 
sometimes issue nearly at once and unite, making too 
large a family for profit. They may often bedtvtded ; the 
success of the operation depends on getting a queen in 
each division. If they are not separated, they may be 
hived together and boxes put oa immediately. Second 
swarms are much smaller, two such should be hived to 
gether when issuing not more than tw o days apart. 
As a general rule, third swarms should be returned to 
the parent stock. The least trouble is to hive them, and 
wait till next morning for the operation ; then spread a 
sheet before the parent hive, one edge at the entrance, 
and shake out the new sw'arm on this, the bees will spread 
out on creeping up, and give a chance to see the queen, 
which should not be allowed to return. The parent 
hive will be worth much more as a stock for another 
year, and for surplus honey, and will repel the moth more 
effectually, which will amply repay the trouble. Third 
swarms seldom make stocks for Winter unless they are 
very early in the season. One strong stock is worth half a 
dozen feeble ones ! Hence the advantage of returning, 
or uniting small ones. 
The time to expect second swarms, is from nine to 
thirteen days after the first—very few exceptions. Third 
swarms, ft out one to three days alter the second. As a 
rule all after swarms (those led out by young queens) will 
issue within eighteen days of the first. 
Old stocks nearly alike in size, color, &c., standing close 
together, frequently lose their queen from 14 to 20 days 
after the first swarm It may be known by an unusual 
commotion of the bees early the next morning. To save 
such stocks from ruin, another queen must be provided. 
One may often be obtained from a second, or third swarm; 
if not, a cell containing one, may be cut out of another 
hive that has cast its first swarm within a week. Blow- 
some tobacco smoke under the hive, then turn it bottom 
up, drive the bees down among the combs with more 
smoke. Queens cells are usually on the edges of the 
combs—get one sealed over and finished, and introduce it 
into the queenless hive. The best place is at the top 
through a hole and between two combs—simply laying it 
on the bottom board will answer, if there are bees enough 
to keep it sufficiently warm. In a few days it w ill mature, 
and they have a queen much sooner than to rear one 
from an egg. 
ESooRs on JtSees.—To Lewis Smith, Petersburg, Ill. 
The best two are Langstkoth’s, noticed in this number. 
Ptice $1 50 ($1 CO pre-paid by mail), and Quinby’s Mys¬ 
teries of Bee-Keeping Explained. Price $1. Then we 
have in paper binding at 25 cents each, Phelp’s Bee-Keep¬ 
er’s Chart ; Richardson’s IIive& Honey-Bee, Weeks on 
Bees, &c. These can be obtained of Saxton* Co., of 
this City, or by sending to this office. They will be for¬ 
warded post-paid by mail, on sending the retail price 
STATE AGIUCULTBIUL EXHIBITIONS 18., 
Name. 
Where Held. 
Date. 
Ohio,. 
Sept. 15—1.' 
Canada East. 
“ 16— 1 f* 
Illinois,. 
“ 21 V-l 
Pennsylvania. ... 
“ 29 Oct 
Wisconsin. 
“ 29 
Canada West. 
29 “ *: 
New-Jersey. 
2 y *• g 
Vermont. 
“ 30 " v 
United States— .. 
.Louisville Ivy.... 
Oct. 1— li 
Indiana. 
“ 4—10 
New-York. 
.Buffalo . 
“ 6— y 
Iowa. 
“ 6— 9 
New-IIampshire... 
“ 7—9 
Kentucky. 
“ 12—10 
Connecticut. 
“ 13—10 
East Tennessee... 
“ 20—23 
North Carolina.... 
.Raleigh. 
“ 20—23 
Massachusetts. 
“ 21—24 
Maryland. 
“ 21—25 
Alabama. 
“ 27—30 
West Tennessee... 
“ 27-30 
“ 28—31 
South Carolina .. 
Nov. 10—12 
A Request.— In our July number we wish to publish a 
condensed but full list of not only State, but also of Coun¬ 
ty Agricultural Exhibitions throughput the Country. Will 
our readers at various points please forw'ard us at once 
the time and place of their several Exhibitions for the en¬ 
suing Autumn. 
