AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
135 
fastened oyer one end of the mallet will prevent 
injury from this cause. With small trees a sim¬ 
ple jar with the hand will often be sufficient. We 
have known crops saved upon trees planted near 
the dwelling by simply jarring them with the hand 
while passing to and from the house, without at¬ 
tempting to collect the insects. They are slug¬ 
gish in their natures, and if disturbed two or three 
times a day will seldom do much mischief. 
Chicken yards are sometimes made of plum or¬ 
chards, and fowls have been so trained as to fol¬ 
low one while shaking the trees, picking up the 
insects as they fall. All the fruit should be 
cooked or burned, as soon as it (alls, to destroy 
the worms before they leave the plum. They are 
much more troublesome on light than on heavy 
soil, and on this account some have paved around 
their trees, and others spread a coating of mortar 
under the branches, to prevent the curculio from 
entering the ground. Dr. Underhill, of Croton 
Point, plants his plum trees leaning over water, 
and succeeds admirably. The natural instinct of 
the parent seems to prevent her from depositing 
her offspring where they are sure to meet des¬ 
truction when falling from the tree. 
Apple Worm, or Codling Moth, (Carpocapsa 
pomonella.) The Codling Moth is busy during 
this and the following month, flitting among ap¬ 
ple and pear trees, and laying its eggs upon the 
skin, in the eye, or blossom end of the fruit. This 
moth is very common at night, often entering the 
open window and fluttering around the lamp or 
candle. Having described them somewhat min¬ 
utely on page 254 of last volume, we will now 
briefly refer to the means employed for their pres¬ 
ent destruction. They, in common with most of 
he miller tribe, are nearly quiet by day, but active 
at night. As soon as apples and pears begin to 
set, kindle small bonfires in various parts of the 
orchard or fruit-yard,- which will attract large 
numbers of these and other insects, and consume 
them in the blaze. Wide-mouthed bottles, filled 
with various mixtures, such as molasses, or hon¬ 
ey and water, vinegar, water and molasses, honey 
and alcohol, &c., and hung in the branches of 
trees, will attract and destroy thousands of in¬ 
sects by stupefying and drowning them. The 
contents will need emptying and replenishing, as 
the bottles soon become filled. A mixture of two 
parts water, and one part vinegar, and one part 
molasses, is very good for this purpose. Fruit 
penetrated by this worm drops prematurely, and 
should be gathered and cooked before the insect 
has time to leave it. See what is said below 
respecting flambeaux for destroying the cater¬ 
pillar. 
The Caterpillar, (Clisiocampa Americana,) is 
very destructive at this season upon the apple, 
pear, and cherry tree. The eggs have already 
hatched, and large nests of fine spun, silky threads 
woven together, contain broods of ravenous 
worms, which sally out in clear weather, and, if 
unmolested, often nearly strip the tree of its foli¬ 
age, lessening or destroying the crop, and weak¬ 
ening the vigor of the tree itself. Thrifty and 
prudent cultivators have already rid their or¬ 
chards of these pests by pulling or cutting off the 
nests as soon as discovered. To exterminate 
those remaining, tie a sponge to a pole, and dip 
it in a strong solution of whale oil soap, or spirits 
of ammonia, and slowly twist it into the nest, 
which will instantly kill all the caterpillars com¬ 
ing in contact with it. A round brush, made for 
the purpose, and fastened to a pole, may be used 
to entwine and bring down their nests. The 
above should be used early in the morning, before 
the worms have left their nests. Bonfires, as di¬ 
rected for the Codling Moth, should be built at 
night under the trees, the latter part ef this month 
and the first of July, to destroy th'e millers of the 
first brood before they deposit their eggs for a 
second crop. Flambeaux or torches, made by 
winding tow saturated with tar, upon a stake 
stuck in the ground, are the most effectual, as 
these burn fora long time. Thousands of millers 
will be destroyed by them during a single night. 
Cherry Slug, (Selandria Cerasi.) This worm, 
found in large numbers during the latter part of 
June, both upon the cherry and pear tree, is de¬ 
scribed at length in another article, and the rem¬ 
edies given. An insect nearly allied to it, is 
found upon rose bushes, and the treatment of 
them should be similar to those upon the cherry. 
We recommend the mixture, for the discovery of 
which D. Haggerston, of Boston, received the 
premium of the Massachusetts Horticultural So¬ 
ciety. This is whale oil soap mixed with water, 
in proportion of one pound of the former to two of 
the latter. Having thoroughly tested its applica¬ 
tion on our own grounds, we pronounce it a sure 
remedy. Where whale oil soap cannot be ob¬ 
tained, pour the dregs of oil casks upon common 
soft soap, and use in the same manner. 
Bark Lice, ( Cocciilce .) These cover the trunks 
and limbs of young apple and pear trees, and are 
frequently found upon currant bushes. They 
usually seize upon an unhealthy or weak growth, 
and, if not destroyed, often kiil the tree or bush. 
They are readily recognized by their scaly ap¬ 
pearance, often entirely covering the wood, and 
should be attended to by the middle of this month, 
at which time the young are in a tender state. 
The whaie oil soap is a good mixture to destroy 
them, using a scrubbing brush or woolen rag to 
apply it. A wash of one part hard soap, and four 
parts water, adding lime enough to make a white¬ 
wash, forms a very good coating, applied with a 
brush till all the crevices are filled. As two crops 
of insects are hatched each season, the infected 
trees should be looked over again in the Fall, and 
the application repeated if necessary. 
GRAPE CULTURE-NO. VI. 
BY WILLIAM CHORLTON 
OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 
The vines in this department will now be in 
active progress, notwithstanding the very late 
Spring, and adverse weather. As the shoots elon¬ 
gate, nip out the tops to three or four leaves 
above the fruit-bunches, but allow those intended 
for next year’s wood to extend themselves for the 
present, rubbing off all that are superfluous. Now 
is the time to save much after labor in Summer- 
pruning, and prevent injury to the fruit; there¬ 
fore, do not leave more branches than are neces¬ 
sary to lay in, eighteen inches apart on the trel¬ 
lis, or furnish two or three for the stakes, accord¬ 
ing to the mode of training. A reference to former 
chapters and cuts will show what is here meant. 
Let these young shoots acquire some woody fibre 
at the base before tving-in, e.se they will be liable 
to break off; but do not delay the operation longer 
than necessary. Some persons use willow twigs 
and rye straw for this purpose ; the former, how¬ 
ever, is troublesome, and the latter very unsightly. 
Good Russian bass will always be found more 
convenient, much neater, and quite as economi¬ 
cal As soon as blossoming is past, and the best 
bunches can be selected, cut off all the superflu¬ 
ous and inferior ones. A healthy and vigorous 
cane may be allowed to bear one pound of grapes 
to each foot in length ; but on those of weaker 
growth, the weight should be correspondingly 
less, if good quality is the object. Keep a sharp 
look-out for insects, as they sometimes do much 
mischief at this time. There are several kinds 
of beetles and caterpillars which eat the young J 
shoots, and likewise the stalks of the bunches. 
These should be destroyed by hand-picking early 
in the morning, when they are sluggish, and easily 
caught. There is also a species of Aphis, or small 
black fly, which congregates in great numbers on 
the young growth, and by sucking the juices, kill 
the tops of the shoots if they are not destroyed. 
Syringing with whale-oil soap dissolved in hot 
water, and afterwards diluted to the proportions 
of one pound of the former to thirty gallons of the 
latter, will be effectual; or, the next best substi¬ 
tute is common soap-suds, used in the same way. 
It is not best to apply these materials while the 
blossoms are expanding, but attack the insects by 
hand, before they become numerous. Loosen the 
soil with the hoe or plow, to destroy weeds, and 
allow the rains to penetrate. The cuttings which 
were put down in March will also be benefitted 
by the same process, and if drouth should occur, 
a good soaking of water will make their success 
more certain, and prevent many from dying out. 
Now is a good time to propagate by layers. For 
this purpose, bury a branch of last year’s growth, 
some four inches deep, leaving the young lateral 
shoots of the present season in a perpendicular 
position, having the tops above ground. Press 
down some hooked pegs to keep the branch in 
its place, and cover with earth. At the end of 
Summer, these upright branches will have an 
abundance of roots, and may be divided into as 
many individual plants. 
COLD GRAPERY. 
The vines in this house will, like those in the 
open air, be in active growth, and all means 
should be used to encourage their development. 
Syringe over the whole every evening, immedi¬ 
ately before sundown, closing the house at the 
same time in clear weather, and do not open 
when cloudy ; be careful, however, to ventilate 
when the sun’s rays burst suddenly out. The 
great object is to maintain an even temperature, 
or rather a gradual, but slow rise until midday, a 
steady heat till evening, and a corresponding fall 
from that time until midnight. The thermometer 
may be allowed to ascend to 85® or 90®. The 
advice as to training, fertilizing, &c., given in 
former chapters for the forcing-house, will now 
apply to this, and need not be repeated. 
FORCING-HOUSE. 
The earliest crop will now be ripe, and the 
next beginning to color. Water overhead ought 
to be discontinued in the latter, and entirely with¬ 
held in the former. Keep the house well aired 
by opening both the top and front ventilators. 
Let the airing be more or less abundant, accord¬ 
ing to the weather, ventilating freely when clear 
and warm, and closing the house when stormy 
and cool. As much as possible maintain a free 
circulation ; for, if the grapes become covered 
with condensed moisture, the flavor is very much 
deteriorated, besides being liable to rot. if wasps 
or flies become troublesome, hang up phials par¬ 
tially filled with molasses and honey mixed to¬ 
gether, or some sugar dissolved in water, with 
the addition of a small portion of rum. Either of 
these mixtures will entice them to enter the ves¬ 
sel, and both will destroy ; the first by its adhe¬ 
sive'consistency, and the second by it3 stupefying 
effects, causing the insects to fall into it, where 
they are drowned. 
THE RETARDING-HOUSE. 
This house may now be closed in the evening, 
and kept cool during the day, which may be ac¬ 
complished by lowering the top ventilators far 
down. Do not open the front windows at aP. 
when cloudy, and no further at any time than is 
actually necessary to reduce the heat to 76® at 
noon. When the weather is settled and dry, an 
