AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
195 
Timber—Cut during this month in preference to leaving 
it till winter. 
Timothy—Sow ff. m. with Wheat. 
Turnips—Thin late sowings, feed early ones and keep 
all well hoed. Sow more of them ff. 
Weeds—Give to hogs or add to composts before they 
ripen seeds. Keep yards and manure heaps free from 
them. 
Wheat—Allnot sown last month, should now be put in 
as early as maybe, on deeply plowed and finely pulverized 
soil that has receiv ed a good coating of manure. Many 
complaints of winter-kill are owing to late sowing. The 
growth is not sufficient before Winter sets in to protect 
the roots. Where it can be done, use the drill in sowing. 
See article on next page. 
ORCHARD AND NURSERY. 
Gathering early fruits, pruning, washing and digging 
about the trees will constitute the principal labors in the 
Orchard during this month. The Nurseryman is still en¬ 
gaged in 
Budding late growing varieties, especially peaches. 
Insert the buds low according to directions given on page 
170 of the August Agriculturist. Use every precaution to 
obtain shoots from genuine varieties, and mark the rows 
with the name or number of the kind used. 
Examine all buds inserted three or four weeks ago and 
if they have failed, insert others of the same kind. Look 
to bandages and unless strips of old cloth were used which 
rupture by the growth of the tree, loosen the binding or 
slit it with a knife if the union is firm. 
Evergreens may be moved m. 11., but Spring is a better 
time. If pruning or shearing is requisite the present is a 
suitable time. By no means trim an evergreen to anaked 
stem as you would a deciduous tree. The knife should 
only be used to remove dead branches, and to clip the 
ends occasionally to form a pyramidal or cone shaped 
head. 
Fruits—Gather early varieties with care, picking by 
hand. Do not wait for Bartlett and other pears to soften 
upon the tree, but pick just before they ripen and allow 
them to mature in the market or on the fruit shelves. 
Grounds for Fall and Spring Planting—Prepare before 
the busy planting season comes on. The soil which is to 
produce a crop of trees should be heavily manured pre¬ 
vious to planting. 
Hoe Nursery rows still, to prevent late weeds from 
seeding the ground. 
Labels—Procure a good supply for fall use, when you 
will be too busy to prepare them. 
Layering—Continue f. rn. as directed last month on 
page 184. Select wood of the present season’s growth. 
Separate those put down last Fall, where they are well 
rooted. 
Manures—Prepare a good supply of stable manure and 
muck. 
Pits or Seeds of Stone Fruits— Collect and plant at once, 
or put in boxes of earth and expose to the weather till 
late Fall or early Spring. 
Plow often in nursery rows and turn over the soil for 
Fall and Spring use. You can not stir it too much or 
too deeply. 
Pruning may very properly be continued during this 
month. 
Records—Keep a book of all Nursery grounds and of 
the specimen orchard, in which write all the names plain¬ 
ly, and make the arrangement such as to prevent the 
possibility of mistakes. If the rows run north and south 
(the best directions) always commence at a certain point 
of the compass and number both the rows and divisions 
of the rows in one direction. North will be a good 
starting point in the rows making divisions of kinds to¬ 
ward the South. The rows themselves may number 
from East, or West as most convenient, always commenc¬ 
ing at the same point and numbering in the same direction. 
A book of this kind will prevent confusion should the 
stakes at any time be removed. 
Seed Beds—Do not allow them to become overrun with 
weeds in the latter part of the season. 
Seeds of Nursery Stock—Gather as they ripen, and as 
nearly all of them require planting in Autumn, it is better 
to put them in at once, or place in boxes of earth and 
leave in the open air. 
KITCHEN AND FRUIT GARDEN. 
Cabbages—Sow f. m., for early Spring to be pricked out 
in a cold frame during the Winter. Use the plow or horse 
hoe among late field cabbages, and keep free from weeds. 
Cauliflower—Sow mm. 1. and treat as cabbages. 
Celery—Earth up in dry weather according to the di¬ 
rections of last month. Keep well hoed. 
Cold Frames—Get these in readiness, with the sashes 
in order, and arrange them for use, m. 1.—manuring and 
spading the ground for those plants which require Winter 
protection. 
Corn Salad—Sow fT. m. 
Cucumbers—Gather pickles f. m. before they are injured 
by the frost. 
Gooseberries—Make cuttings m. 11. and plant in a deep 
soil, or put in boxes ofearth for next Spring. 
Hoe growing crops often, especially late ones. 
Hops—Gather ff. in. and house the poles for another 
year. See pages 178 and 204. 
Lettuce—Sow ff. for late Fall use, and mm. for cold 
frames. As it bears but little frost, transplant to the 
frames 11. if the weather is cold. 
Manures—Begin to collect a goodly supply for next 
Spring, and use freely in cold frames. Muck can scarce¬ 
ly be too highly estimated for garden use. 
Mushrooms—Collect spawn ff. m. and prepare for mak¬ 
ing beds. 
Nasturtiums—Gather and pickle, ff. m. 
Onions—Sow' ff. m. for Spring sets, and early use. A 
light covering of straw or brush will protect them suffi¬ 
ciently during the Winter in this latitude. See page 183. 
Parsley—Sow ff. m. for Spring use. 
Radishes—Sow ff. m. for Fall, and 11. for Winter use. 
Raspberries and Blackberries—Cut out old canes that 
have done bearing, and house stakes for another season. 
See articles in this number. 
Rhubarb—Seed may be sown ff. m. or left until Spring. 
Seeds—Collect as fast as they ripen, and keep un¬ 
mixed and well marked. 
Spinach sow ff. m. and cover upon the approach of 
severe weather. Straw or Evergreen brush will be 
sufficient. Read article on another page. 
Strawberries may still be planted if the bed was not set 
outlast month. See chapter in present number. 
Turnips—Read articles elsewhere and keep late crops 
well hoed, running a small plow or horse hoe between the 
rows often. 
Weeds—Keep down and prevent their sowing seed for 
a future crop. 
Winter Cress—Sow ff. m. 
FLOWER-GARDEN AND LAWN. 
These grounds still require attention, needing frequent 
hoeings, occasional waterings, and a carelul lemoval of 
weeds. Many of the plants which were brought from the 
Parlor, Green and Forcing houses, and either transplanted 
into the border, or plunged into the earth without re¬ 
moving from the pots will need returning as the cool 
nights of Autumn approach. Attend also to some of lhe 
early flowering 
Annuals, the grounds for which may be prepared on a 
warm border. After thorough manuring and deep work¬ 
ing-trenching if possible—sow Centauria, Clarkia, Col- 
linsia, Coreopsis, Mignonette, Phlox, Scabious, Sweet 
Alyssum, &o., which will, with a little protection, stand 
the Winter and come into early bloom in the Spring, or 
some of them may be set in pots and placed in the house 
for Winter flowering. See page 209. 
Bulbous Plants—Prepare grounds and put in ff. m. l„ 
according to directions given elsewhere. 
Carnations—Remove layers f. m. and pot or insert in 
the border 
Chrysanthemums—Stake up, removing weak shoots, 
and prune side branches off from those trained to a 
single stem. 
Cuttings of woody shrubs may be made 11. 
Dahlias are still in fine flower. Keep them fastened to 
stakes and prune off straggling side branches. Mark the 
varieties of flower before they are destroyed by frost. A 
simple method is to tie a.whitc strip of cloth to auAireflow- 
er stalk, a red strip to a red or scarlet flower, &c. Doub¬ 
ling the strips conveys the idea of a double flower.. This 
is not sufficienUy definite for the amateur who should 
preserve the original names and specify the habits and 
colors upon labels attatched to the plants by wires. 
Delphinium—Sow m. 11. 
Evergreens—Plant ff. m. if they must be put out before 
Spring. 
Flower Stalks—Cut away and remove from the grounds 
as fast as they are done blooming. 
Flower Pits—Construct m. 11. according to the plan de- 
scribed on page 79 of this volume (April No.) 
Geraniums—Take off slips ff in. and pot for Winter 
bloom. 
Gravel Walks—Keep free from grass and weeds. 
Lilies—Transplant or plant out f. m. 
Pansies—Sow seed and part layers f, m. 
Pinks—Separate layers and pot or plant for next season. 
Primulas—Sow ff rn. 
Roses—Bud ff. any omitted last inoiith. Layer the 
present season’s grow th at the same time. 
Seeds—Collect varieties before they are wasted upon 
the ground. 
Tender Plants—rtemove to 1 the green and hot houses 
mm. those varieties which would be injured by the frost. 
Dress and cleanse them before carrying in. 
Verbenas—Pot runners f. m. to preserve a stock for 
Winter and early Spring bloom. 
Wall Flowers and stocks—Lift from borders and pot 
m. 1 
GREEN AND HOT HOUSES. 
These should be looked to now, and, unless already 
done, they should have a thorough over-hauling and 
cleansing at once. Look to the furnaces, flues and water- 
pipes ; see that the glazing is complete, and cords, pul- 
lies, &c.,in working order. If the houses have been en¬ 
tirely empty, give a thorough syringing with the force 
pump or garden engine, throwing the water with force 
into every corner, crack and crevice, to dislodge insects 
harboring there. Arrange the shelves, renew the bark or 
saw dust bed if necessary, prepare boxes and pots to re¬ 
ceive the plants, collect mold, peat and sand for potting, 
and having completed the other arrangements, paint 
where required, leaving the windows open for a few days 
previous to bringing in the plants. If tender plants are 
exposed to the odor of new paint, it often causes defolia¬ 
tion. Everything being complete, commence bringing in 
and arranging the plants m. 1., according as the weather is 
warm, or cool. Place the taller varieties on the back 
shelves, and low kinds in front, bearing in mind at the 
same time that some varieties require more light than 
others. Arrange them near or at a distance from the 
furnace as they need a strong or light heat. A dry- 
shelf should contain those plants which require very 
little water, including most of the bulbous roots. 
Air freely those houses containing plants, especially 
when first brought in. 
Annuals—Sow a few f. m. 1. for a succession of bloom. 
Azalias—Take in early before cool weather checks the 
growth. 
Bulbs—Plant f. in. 1. for a succession of Winter bloom, 
keeping them in the green house for the present. 
Camellias—Finish repotting ff. m. and take to houses 
m. 1. 
Fires—Start m. 11. to expel dampness from forcing 
houses. 
Geraniums—Take from borders f. m. and pot for Winter 
bloom. 
Insects—Destroy thoroughly previous to filling houses. 
PoUing generally should be completed early, and every 
thing arranged for filling the shelves. 
Prune and Dress Potted Plants previous to carrying to 
the houses. 
Verbenas—Make cuttings, and layer to keep up a 
stock for propagation and for Winter bloom. 
Water—Give to plants when repotted, and apply freely 
inside the house. Dampen the floors and syringe over¬ 
head to maintain a humid atmosphere. 
THE APIARY. 
BY M. QUINBY. 
In most places, bees will add nothing to their stores 
after the 10th of this month. (Sept.) In some localities, 
they gain very little even in August ; but in a few favored 
sections, they will increase their stores until October. 
This of course depends on what flowers there are to sup¬ 
ply them. Clover usually fails the first of August. Buck¬ 
wheat the first of September ; but Golden rod, when in 
sufficient abundance , prolongs the honey season into Octo¬ 
ber. As soon as the flowers cease to yield honey, the bees 
will be on the lookout for a supply from other sources. 
All weak stocks and swarms, not able to keep sufficient 
guard, are quite sure to be found and plundered. Every 
hive should be examined noiv, and not wait till next week, 
when it may be too late. Do not suppose because it was 
good in .Tune, that it will of course be so now. All t.ht 
defenceless ones, should be put out of harm’s way at once, 
before honest bees are tempted into bad habits by appro 
printing forbidden sweets. Seasonable attention to this 
matter, will often save much complaint between neigh¬ 
bors, about “ first rate hives being robbed.” It is not suffi 
ciently understood that good hives are not plundered on the 
start; they are left till all weak ones are disposed of. If 
there are no weak ones, and no refuse honey injudiciously 
exposed to entice bees, there will be ho robbing 1 
A family, too weak to maintain a defence now, can not 
be successfully wintered with all possible assistance, and 
the sooner they are out of the way the better. Two or 
three weak ones may be united, when the stands are with¬ 
in a few feet of each other, and if judiciously fed, may 
possibly make something. A queenless stock containing 
stores sufficient to winter a family, should receive the 
bees and queen of some one or two weak, or diseased 
stocks. A swarm that works without a queen, and has 
even stored ample provisions for w'inter, should be broken 
up, as, in such cases, they always make too much drone 
comb for profit, in all localities where diseased or foul 
brood prevails, every old stock should be thoroughly ex¬ 
amined, and if diseased, it should be condemned without 
hesitation. If the bees are much reduced, remove them, 
and by no means allow healthy stocks to appropriate the 
honey and thus induce disease. 
As long as the weather continues warm, any combs 
taken from the bees, whether filled with honey or not, will 
need watching to keep the moth worms out—should any 
appear, subject them to the fumes ofbuming sulphur. 
