AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
£243 
Leaves—Collect a good supply from the. orchard and 
forests. Tliey make excellent bedding for cattle, horses 
and hogs, besides being good manure. You can not get 
too many of them. 
Manure—See that sufficient materials are at hand for 
making all the manure possible, a large amount of 
Muck should be got out and stored under cover if possi¬ 
ble, accessible to the stables and hog pens for free use 
during Fall, Winter and Spring. 
Plow stiff heavy lands before the ground freezes, and 
leave them to be acted upon by the Winter frosts. 
Roots—Complete harvesting f. m. before hard freezing. 
Gradually cover the root pits with more earth, and when 
the weather demands, close the ventilators at the top. 
See article on page 203 (Sept. No.) relative to their con. 
struction. 
Sheep should now receive some extra feed although they 
still grub upon the hills and pastures. They go through 
the Winter much easier and with far less risk, when be¬ 
ginning it in good flesh. The buck may run with them m. 
11. if early lambs are wanted. At the North next month 
will be early enough. 
Stack Yards— Instead of making them cattle yards, save 
time, labor, and your reputation for humanity by carting 
the contents to the bam and feed under cover. 
Stone Fences may be built as long as the ground re¬ 
mains open. 
Tools—Put away those not in use under cover, after 
coating iron and steel surfaces with the mixture recom¬ 
mended on page 228 of the October number. It is well to 
repair any needing it now, so that no delay will be neces¬ 
sary when they are wanted at a busy season, or put such 
wnere they will be sure to receive attention during Win¬ 
der. 
Turnips—Harvest Ruta Bagas m. 1. or when the leaves 
oegin to wilt. 
Water Pipes—Give an extra covering 11. where there is 
ianger of freezing. 
W inter Grain—Keep stock of all kinds from eating it 
off or trampling it down this month. A good coat 
upon the ground, as a mulch for protection during Winter, 
s valuable. 
Wood—Look to the forests m. 1. and collect all the 
1 down stuff ” at the North and pile it easy of access when 
sledding comes on. It is much easier to collect it now 
than after deep snows have fallen. As a general rule 
the first snows of Winter are best to draw wood to the 
house. 
ORCHARD AND NURSERY. 
The early part of this month-is a favorable season for 
setting out an orchard. Trees well set now will be ready 
in Spring to start at once into rapid growth. In the nur¬ 
sery the busy season of selling and replanting con 
tinues. 
Apple Trees—Plant ff. m. on dry, well prepared soil. 
Cherries—Plant as apple trees. If in exposed situa¬ 
tions, it is better to defer planting till Spring. 
Frozen Trees—Read directions for on another p.age. 
Grounds for Spring planting, both to standard and nur¬ 
sery stock.—Prepare ff. m. instead of leaving till the busy 
season of Spring. 
Manure grounds for Spring planting now, in preference 
to leaving them till they are planted. 
Mice among Trees—Read under this head last month 
anil act accordingly. 
Nursery Rows—Turn a furrow with the plow towards 
the row upon either side and leave in this manner during 
he Winter, especially on wet ground. The dead fur- 
vvws between the rows will serve as drains. 
n Ire,hards of old trees should receive due attention to 
pro ong their usefulness as much as may be, or till the 
youi.ger trees come into bearing. Scrape off the moss 
and r- ugh bark, dig about and manure the roots, pruning 
the tops at a proper season and you give them a new 
lease upon life for which they will amply repay you. 
Pack thoroughly those trees which are to be sent to a 
distance, using moss or moist straw for the roots, straw- 
ing and binding the tops with twine. 
Pear Trees—Set out ff. m on dry soil. 
Pruning may be done now but it is not the best season. 
Quinces—Plant as Pears. 
Seeds of Apples, Pears, Quinces, Plums, Cherries, 
Peaches, &c. -If not planted last montli as there directed 
it can be done ff m. 
Tender Trees and Shrubs will require some protection 
by the latter part of the month. Tafl varieties maybe 
bound up with straw or mats, and low growing trees or 
shrubs covered with boxes or barrels having holes in the 
top for ventilation. 
Transplanting generally maybe done in the early part 
of this month. 
KITCHEN AND FRUIT GARDEN. 
During the foTe part of this month any crops not har¬ 
vested should be secured, and everything done that may 
be to fa or early planting in the Spring. Look well to the 
Winter protection of whatever requires covering, be¬ 
ginning with the 
Asparagus Bed, which may now receive a coating of 
coarse manure .and litter from the horse-stable, both to 
prevent frequent freezing and thawing, and to serve as 
a dressing to the plants. 
Beets should have been harvested last month. If not 
already done, se—ire ff. storing from frost. 
Blackberries may be planted as long as the ground is 
open, but the earlier now the better. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers—Harvest the remaining 
crop f. rn. and store for Winter use. Read article in pres¬ 
ent number, on this point. Those set in frames last, month 
should receive air each day, if the weather is at all suit¬ 
able, raising the upper edge of the sash. Cover with mats 
or straw before heavy freezing. 
Carrots—Dig and store ff. m. any remaining in the 
ground. 
Celery—Harvest the remaining crop f. m. and protect 
as directed elsewhere in the present number. 
Cold Frames—Attend to closely, giving air whenever 
suitable. If the weather is very cold towards the latter 
part of the month, do not remove the sash or other cover¬ 
ing. In addition, spread over rugs, mats, or straw. It is 
not expected that frost will be entirely excluded, but 
avoid any sudden changes, and when the weather mod¬ 
erates allow the frost to come out of the plants before re¬ 
moving the covering. 
Compost and Manures for Spring use—Prepare a good 
supply as opportunity offers. 
Com Salad—Thin, keep free from weeds and cover 
lightly with straw m. 11. 
Currants and Gooseberries—Plant both ff. m. if not al¬ 
ready done. Cuttings may be made and either kept for 
Spring planting or put in at once. 
Drain stiff heavy soils, to facilitate early working in 
Spring. They may be planted a week earlier, if thor¬ 
oughly drained. 
Fruit Trees—These may be planted ff. m. as referred to 
more fully under “ Orchard and Nursery.” 
Garlic—Plant ff m. in preference to leaving it till 
Spring. 
Grapes—Lay tender varieties upon the ground, and un¬ 
less in some measure screened by buildings or fences, we 
prefer taking even the Isabella and Catawba from the 
trellis during Winter. 
Grape Vines—Read descriptive chapter on. 
Leaves of Trees—Collect a good supply for composting 
and for hot beds in the Spring. They make an excellent 
manure for the kitchen garden. 
Lettuce—Expose that growing in frames to as much air 
as can be done writhprudence, otherwise they grow with 
slender stalks and do not head well. 
Mice—Allow no brush, weeds or rubbish to afford 
harbors for these Set traps or introduce poison into the 
cold frames if they make an entrance there. 
Mushroom Beds—Make ff. and attend to former ones. 
Read the article on another page. 
Parsneps—Harvest any time before the ground freezes, 
enough to last till Spring, and put in a barrel in the cel¬ 
lar, sifting in sand or dry earth until they are covered. 
Potatoes should all be dug ff. unless harvested last 
month. Keep from air as much as possible. 
Raspberries—Transplant and set out new plantations 
ff m. Lay down and cover tender varieties before the 
ground freezes, cutting out any old canes and shortening 
in long shoots at the same time. 
Rhubarb—Plant roots ff m instead of waiting till 
Spring. 
Salsify—Dig what is wanted before Spring and store ns 
parsneps. 
Spinach—Weed and thin previous to covering with 
straw for the Winter. See that no water will stand on 
the ground. 
Squashes—Remove to a cool dry cellar before they 
freeze. Handle with care, and if properly managed they 
will keep till January or February. 
Strawberries—Cover beds with straw, coarse manure or 
leaves m. 1. Remove weeds and thin out now in prefer 
ence to leaving a mat upon the ground till Spring. 
Tools—Repair any needing it, and put away in their 
proper places in the tool house, those which are no longer 
needed this season. 
Turnips—Harvest the remaining crop m. 1. being gov¬ 
erned by the season. Look to pits as the weather becomes 
severe. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 
The principal labors of the present season in this de¬ 
partment will be taking in such roots, shrubs and flowers 
as will not withstand the‘frosts of- Winter, and affording 
protection to some of the more tender ones which remain 
out; arranging and planting hardy trees and shrubbery 
both on new and old grounds; dressing the lawn and 
putting everything in neat order for Winter. Decaying 
flower stalks and rubbish of all kinds should be removed 
both to present a neat appearance and avoid a haibor for 
mice. 
Annuals sown last month— Protect by a slight covering 
of leaves or straw, or erect a cold frame over them. 
Bulbs were probably planted last month in accordance 
with directions then given. If any remain out of ground, 
plant them ff. 
Chrysanthemums are still in bloom in many sections. 
Keep them tied to stakes, and mark those colorsyou wish 
to propagate. During the latter part of the month they 
may be divided and reset. 
Dahlias and Gladiolus— If these were not all taken up 
last month, lift them ff and having attached wooden 
labels with the names and habits of the varieties to each, 
put in boxes of earth and set in a cool dry situation but on t 
of the reach of frost. 
Daisies—Cover ff. m. with leaves or a frame. 
Frames and Pits—Place the remaining plants requiring 
protection in these tf. and secure them from freezing by 
extra covering as severe weather comes on. 
Hedges—Plant buckthorn, althea, privit, <fcc., ff. m. 
Lawns—A covering of straw or sea weed will cause 
these to start fresher in the Spring, especially if they are 
new. Guano or bone dust may be washed in by the Fal 
rains. 
Pteonies and other perennial herbaceous plants may 
very properly be divided and set out ff. m. 
Roses—Low growing tender varieties maybe laid down 
and covered with earth m. 1. 
Shrubs—Plant ff. m. those varieties alluded to last 
month, unless they were attended to at that time. 
Stakes and Dahlia Poles—Collect and lay away under 
cover for future use. 
Tigridias and Tuberoses—Lift and dry ff. and storeaway 
from host. 
Trees—Plant shade trees ff. m. about the yards and 
lawns. 
GREEN AND HOT HOUSES. 
These are now supposed to be full, and fire heat al¬ 
ready in use for collections of tender and tropical plants. 
It is important that they suffer no check from a cool at¬ 
mosphere which is sometimes allowed between the wan¬ 
ing heatof an Autumnal sun, and the starting of Winter 
fires. It is also presumed that water pipes are used to 
generate heat, as these, after numerous and oft repeated 
trials, are almost, universally decided to be 'the .best. 
Air all of the houses as much as practicable. Half hardy 
plants recently carried to the green house, especially need 
abundance of air while becoming accusomed to a change 
of situation. 
Annuals—Commence potting those annuals which were 
sown last month, using pots large enough for them to 
bloom in. 
Borders—Fork overff. m. working in plenty manure. 
Bulbs—Place a quantity in glasses and put them in the 
green house ff. A few ofthese may be brought to the hot 
house m. 1., at intervals of a few weeks, to keep up a suc¬ 
cession of bloom during the Winter. 
Camellias—Syringe freely and wash any dust from the 
leaves. 
Cisterns or Tanks—These should be in the rooms, and 
kept filled so that the temperature of the water when ap¬ 
plied to the plants may be the same as the air of the room. 
Evaporation from these open cisterns assists in maintain¬ 
ing a humid atmosphere. 
Fires—Keep these as even as may be, both by day and 
night, in the heated apartments. Avoid starting them 
among the more hardy plants of the green house unless 
frost is likely to enter. There is more danger from excess 
of heat when plants are first brought in than after they have 
become accustomed to their situation. 
Insects—Keep down with syringe and tobacco fumes. 
It is far better and much easier to keep them in check 
than to exterminate them after they have got a strong 
ioolhold. 
Leaves—Pick off all decaying ones, as they breed ver¬ 
min and emit an odor offensive to growing plants. 
Pots and Tubs—Examine and loosen the earth, where 
necessary, removing any moss growing upon the surface, 
’’pep free from weeds. 
n.,'=es—Tender varieties taken to the border in the 
Spring, should be relumed to the house ff. 
Shutters—Put these in the hot house each night when 
there is appearance of heavy frost, removing them after 
the sun is up in the morning. 
Temperature—The different houses and rooms must be 
regulated in point of temperature by the collections they 
contain. With hardy vines and shrubs requiring only the 
partial protection of a green house, the temperature may 
range from 40 to 50 degrees, while the different forcing 
houses should range from 55 to 70 degrees, and even 80 
degrees will not be too much for the tropical house. 
Water moderately, excepting in the most heated rooms 
Bulbs especially need very little water at this season 
Succulents need be watered only once or twice a week 
The fore part of the day isnow the best time to apply it. ' 
