262 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
GROWING MUSHROOMS. 
In response to frequent inquiries we present 
some particulars on the culture of this singular 
vegetable production, beds for whichmaybe made 
at this season. The Mushroom (Agaricus cam- 
festris ,) is often found growing wild along paths 
much trodden by horses, from whose manure it 
springs spontaneously under favorable conditions. 
As frequent serious results have often occurred 
from mistaking poisonous toad-stools for Mush¬ 
rooms, much care should be exercised m distin¬ 
guishing them from each other. Toad-stools 
have a longer stem, are slimy to the touch, emit 
a disagreeable smell when broken, and usually 
grow in the woods or sheltered positions. The 
true Mushroom, in a wild state, grows only in open 
grounds, has a peculiar delicate odor, is fleshy and 
somewhat brittle, of a brownish white above and 
a pale pink color on the under side of its cap or 
pileus. They are frequently broiled, stewed or 
pickled, and are much employed in making cat¬ 
sups and as seasoning to soups of various kinds. 
The seed or spawn consists of white threads or 
strings, which are often seen in the compost of a 
spent hot-bed, or in the droppings of grain-fed 
horses which have partially fermented in a heap 
under cover. This spawn may be collected for 
forming a bed, but it is usually more economical to 
get *he “ Mushroom bricks ’’ Ilrest from oca.ers 
n seeds, or nurserymen who generally keep tnem 
on sale at 10 to 12 cents apiece. 
The seed bricks may be made thus: Take equal 
parts of fresh pasture loam, cow manure and 
horse-droppings—that from high-fed horses is 
best—and mix with just water enough to form a 
batter like grafting wax. When this has stiffened 
a little, mold it into the form of common bricks 
and set on edge to dry in an open shed, turning 
them daily. When half dry make a hole in the 
center of each, insert a piece of spawn brick an 
inch in diameter and plaster over with the portion 
taken out moistened a little, and then dry them 
thoroughly. When no purchased spawn brick can 
be obtained, enough seed to begin with can be 
found by searching in a manure heap where it 
grows spontaneously as above described. When 
thoroughly dried make a mound or pyramid of the 
brick, the spawn side up, on a floor or the ground 
under cover, putting down first six inches of dry 
horse manure, then a layer of bricks, then a 
sprinkling of dry partially fermented manure, then 
another layer of bricks and so on until all are 
used. Cover the heap with four or five inches 
of horse manure to maintain a gentle temperature 
through the whole. If properly made, fine white 
threads will soon begin to penetrate the mass, and 
in about a month the whole bricks will be filled 
with spawn, when they may be stored in a cool 
dry room, and if kept from frost they will remain 
good for years. 
The Bed for growing the Mushrooms may be 
made in a dry cellar, green house, or shed pro¬ 
tected from frost. The most simple plan is to 
use a box or barrel. Begin by collecting daily 
fresh horse droppings from the stable, throw into 
a heap and turn often, or spread when much heat 
is generated. In a couple of weeks or so, when 
they have become moldy and partially dry they are 
ready for use. First put into the barrel or box 
five or six inches of fresh stable manure,; then as 
much of the moldy prepared portion, pressing it 
down firmly. Thus alternate the fresh and pre¬ 
pared manures until the vessel is full, making the 
last layer of the partially dried droppings. After 
standing a week, break one of the spawn bricks 
into small pieces and insert these a little below 
the surface ; heat down and cover with two inch¬ 
es of fine loam or sandy mold. A few barrels 
thus prepared will give a full supply for a small 
family. 
When wanted in larger quantities, choose a con¬ 
venient place in one side of a cellar or shed pro¬ 
tected from frost, and lay down a few inches of lit¬ 
ter, covering with a foot of the moldy droppings 
prepared as above, and tramp the whole solid. This 
will soon ferment like a liot-bed. After a few 
days examine its temperature by inserting a stick 
and let it remain a few minutes. If quite hot on 
withdrawing it, reduce the temperature by mak¬ 
ing small holes in the bed. When the heat re¬ 
mains steady at 65° to 70°, that is, a little below 
summer heat, plant all over the surface, small 
pieces of the spawn brick of the size of a walnut, 
putting them an inch or two deep and six inches 
from each other. Cover over with loam as noted 
above. If the bed at any time appears too dry 
sprinkle moderately with tepid water. If the heat 
declines cover with straw. The best room temper¬ 
ature is about 60°. Young Mushrooms should ap¬ 
pear in five or six weeks from planting the spawn. 
Such a bed will continue in bearing several months. 
If it begins to decline at any time, another plant¬ 
ing of spawn will often bring it into fruitfulness 
again. A bed four feet wide to ten feet long will 
furnish an abundant supply for a large family. 
In gathering, twist out the Mushrooms in prefer¬ 
ence to cutting off, as no portion of the stem should 
be left to brood or harbor insects. 
HINTS ON WATERMELONS. 
All fruits and vegetables, of tropical origin, ap¬ 
pear to have suffered in localities north of this, 
from the superabundance of cold and moisture, in 
the early part of the season. We hear, on all 
hands, complaints of poor squashes, nutmeg mel¬ 
ons, and watermelons. The crop from the south 
has been very abundant, but most nutmegs, that we 
have discussed this season, have been wanting 
in flavor. Gentlemen, who have forcing boxes, 
have probably secured good melons. 
But we planted ours in the open ground, hav¬ 
ing usually succeeded in securing perfect speci¬ 
mens, and of better flavor than the same varie¬ 
ties from the south. 
THE GREEN IMPERIAL 
we have cultivated for four seasons, and have 
found it an excellent variety. It is of globe form, 
a yellowish green when ripe, with a very thin 
rind, and a light red core. It is the heaviest 
melon ofiits size, with which we are acquainted. 
Some of the specimens, in good seasons, reach a 
weight of twenty pounds and over. The flesh is 
beautifully veined, and of excellent quality. 
THE ORANGE WATERMELON 
disseminated by Mr. Peabody, of Columbus, Ga., 
has not met with so general favor as was antici¬ 
pated. Some cultivators have professed them¬ 
selves disappointed, and do not pronounce it, 
even good. But we think their judgment must 
have been based upon specimens from impure 
seed, or from those imperfectly grown. This 
fruit, when well grown, and deprived of its skin, 
in which way alone it should be served, is one of 
the most beautiful dessert fruits, that can be im¬ 
agined. The flesh is lacking in solidity, and we 
must say is not quile equal to the Green Imperial, 
though very good. 
THE BRADFORD 
in our judgment, is a better melon than either of 
the preceding. We received the seed three years 
since, from W. Sumner, Esq., of South Carolina, 
with several other varieties. Its appearance is 
much like the Mountain Sweet, the flesh is white, 
juicy and sugary, the perfection of its kind. The 
seed we believe is only in the possession of 
amateurs. It ought to be universally dissemi¬ 
nated. 
KEEPING CELERY IN WINTER. 
Directions for the culture of celery were given 
in the August Agriculturist, page 183. Several 
methods are adopted for keeping in Winter, de¬ 
pending upon climate, situation, quantity, &c. In 
warm latitudes where there is little snow, and 
the ground is frequently thawed out during Win¬ 
ter, a good plan is to dig a trench on the south 
side either of a tight board fence or of a building. 
Take up the plants with most of the roots attached, 
and set them into the trench close together in 
double or triple rows, making as many trenches as 
may be necessary to hold the entire crop Sprinkle 
in dry sand or loam enough to nearly hide the 
leaves and cover with boards placed in a shelving 
position so as to carry off rain. On the approach 
of very cold weather, straw should he crowded 
under the boards to prevent hard freezing. 
In colderlatitudes, take up the plants, cut uff a 
portion of the leaves, and pack into a box or bar¬ 
rel, with the roots down. After putting in as 
many side by side as there is room for, sift in 
enough dry sand to-cover them and put in another 
layer, sanding as before, and so on until the box 
or barrel is full. Keep in a cool dry cellar or room 
where little frost can reach them. 
For a third method, set the plants closely to¬ 
gether on the bottom of the cellar, and cover with 
sand nearly to the top. Stored in any one of 
these methods they will keep well, and be ready 
blanched for use at any time desired. 
KEEPING CABBAGES JN WINTER. 
To preserve cabbages through the Winter and 
still have them accessible at all times, select a 
perfectly dry spot, and open a trench with the 
spade or plow. Take up the cabbages with their 
roots attached, inverting them as you proceed to al¬ 
low the water to run out from the heads. After 
pulling a quantity and standing them on their 
heads until they are thoroughly dry, set them out 
thickly in the trench, in their natural position, 
covering with earth nearly to the head. Open 
another trench as near this as the heads will ad¬ 
mit of, and set out a second row. Proceed in 
this manner until all are used, when a temporary 
board shed may be erected over the patch, four 
feet high in front, and sloping to near the ground 
in the rear. This should be sufficiently tight to 
carry off all the water, but the ends may be left 
open for ventilation, closing with straw only in 
very cold weather. Cabbages will keep in this 
situation until Spring. If water is prevented 
from entering the heads, the freezing will have 
no injurious effect. When wanted for use cut 
off the heads, and if frozen soak in well or spring 
water for a few hours before cooking. This will 
take out the frost gradually, and also remove any 
disagreeable flavor. 
Another and very common method is, to stand 
them upon the level ground, with the roots up, 
and turn a furrow against the row upon eith¬ 
er side. An additional covering is given by 
banking up the earth about them with a spade, 
until the heads are entirely buried. They keep 
pretty well in this manner, but cannot be easily 
got out when the ground is frozen hart). 
Another plan which we have pursued with suc¬ 
cess, is as follows: Transplant the cabbages 
into close single rows, say 12 feet long, setting 
the heads nearly down to the surface of the 
ground. At each end of the row drive a erotched 
stake, and put a pole across a few inches above 
the heads Lay upon each side “ome straight 
