AMLHR JAN AGRICULTURIST 
275 
Grain—Thresh ff. in. miy remaining in stacks, saving 
Hie slum for feeding and bedding. 
Hemp—l J ut oul if. any not yet spread for rotting. Take 
up the already rolled and shock it f# Hie hemp breaker. 
Hedges—Plant if. at the South, and where the ground 
will admit of working. 
Hogs - Complete fattening IT. those intended for killing. 
Keep their pens and yards well supplied with muck and 
other manurial agents and absorbents. Have an eye to 
the increase of stock and turn the male among your breed¬ 
ing sows ff. if early pigs are wanted. This is the princi¬ 
pal butchering month among farmers. 
Horses and Mules—With grain feed, give a portion of 
carrots, and see that their stalls are warm and well bed¬ 
ded at-night. 
Ice Houses—Fill with the first firm, thick ice which is 
usually the best of the season. Houses may still be built 
if. after the plan described and illustrated in the last 
Agriculturist. 
Leaves—Collect from orchards, road sides and forests 
as many as possible. Dry and store under cover a good 
supply, or all you can get, for Winter bedding and for hot 
beds in the Spring. A foot of them spread over the cow 
and hog yards will make an excellent addition to the ma¬ 
nure heap. 
Manures—Push the manufacture of these at this season. 
Use muck, loam, leaves and straw to absorb all the liquids 
of the yards and stables. Cart a large heap of muck from 
the swamp to the stables for Winter use. A free bedding 
of it under horses to absorb the urine, will make twice as 
much manure as would be saved where all the liquids 
were allowed to run to waste, with no absorbent. 
Plowing during open weather may still be continued 
on clayey soils w'hen sufficiently dry. 
Poultry'—Give warm quarters, plenty of food and drink, 
with gravel, lime and meat, and you may expect eggs in 
the Winter season. Clean roosts often, barreling the 
contents for guano. 
Sheep—Provide racks for, and feed under cover during 
storms. Keep horned cattle and horses from them. Give 
iurnips in part, instead of all dry feed. See that they are 
supplied with salt. If early lambs are wanted the buck 
may run with them 11. 
Tools—Look over during the stormy days of this month 
and if any need repairing you can better afford the time 
now than when they are wanted for use at a busy season. 
Some of the new ones of domestic manufacture, such as 
harrows, ox yokes, bows, hoe, fork and ax handles, wood 
sleds, &c., may also be made. Store those not wanted in 
a dry situation under cover, until needed in the Spring. 
Turnips—Harvest ff. any still in the ground. Look to 
pits and give additional covering and close theventilators 
at night if there is danger of freezing. 
Water Pipes—See that they are sufficiently protected 
from frost. 
Winter Grain—Allow nothing to graze upon the fields 
during the present month. 
Wood—Commence early to get up the Winter supply. 
At the North where abundance of snow falls it is better to 
cut and draw together as much as possible before the 
deep Winter snows fall. Early snows usually make the 
best sledding to draw it home upon. A year’s supply 
should be brought to the house, cut and stored under 
cover some time during the Winter, the earlier the better. 
ORCHARD AND NURSERY. * 
Little labor is required, in the orchard at this season, if 
there has been proper management heretofore. The nur¬ 
seryman is now nearly through w ith his Fall sales which he 
has found unusually light, owing to the “tight times.” 
It will haidly be economy to forego the setting of trees 
beyond the corning Spring. A few barrels of fine apples 
and Winter pears would now bring enough in this market 
to set out an orchard. 
Borers should be looked after ffi If they were not de¬ 
stroyed last month. See directions on the preceding 
page. 
Labels and Stakes—Prepare a full supply forSpringuse 
in the nursery. See that those on standard trees are 
sufficiently firin'to stand the Winter. They should be 
attached by copper wire which can be lengthened as the 
tree increases in size. Loosen any which are cutting 
into the bark. 
Mice—Where snow covers the ground, it is well to 
trample it down after each fall, to form an icy mass 
which they will find it difficult to pass in attempting to 
gnaw trees above ground. If the ground is not frozen, 
bank up about each tree, removing the earth in the 
Spring. 
Orchards of old Trees—Scrape the rough, loose bark 
from the trunks of old trees to dislodge any insects or their 
cocoons, which have harbored there. 
Pruning orra moderate scale may be done now, espec¬ 
ially at the South. We would not advise removing large 
limbs during cold weather. 
Scions—Cut ff. m. for Spring grafting. 
Seeds and Pits for Fall Planting.—If any of these are 
still out of g >und, put them in at once according to di¬ 
rections prev ously given in this Calendar. 
Shrubs—These may still be transplanted during open 
weather. 'J ender varieties w ill require some protection 
as referred, > under “ Flower Garden and Lawn.” 
Transplai mg—Continue ff. during open weather. 
Never allov the roots to freeze during the operation. 
KITC1 EN AND FRUIT GARDEN. 
Very litth gardening can be done during this month at 
the North art at the South the soil may be manured, 
plowed ano aid out, and many of the early vegetables 
sown on w; m, dry grounds. In this latitude, however, 
possibly so,-.e of the November work was omitted and 
needs earl} attention now. 
Asparagu s beds not covered last month should receive 
a coating or course manure ff. Spread the old stalks, and 
the vines of the garden over the manure, which will- pro¬ 
tect from frost and cause an early start in the Spring. 
New beds may still be made where the ground is open. 
Bean Poles—Gather the old and procure now or during 
Winter, as many new ones as will be wanted another 
season, storing them away under cover, if possible. The 
cedar swamps are now acceessible and poles may be cut 
with the Winter’s wood. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers—If any are still in the gar¬ 
dens, put them in Winter quarters ff. as directed in the 
November number. Those in frames require air at all 
suitable times. See under Cold Frames. 
Celery—Harvest ff. what still remains in the ground 
Directions for storing were given on page 2G2, November 
number. 
Cold Frames—Air these at all suitable times. When 
the weather will not admit of removing the sash entirely, 
raise the upper portion or the back side a littfe. Pick off 
all decaying leaves before they taint the atmosphere. 
Upon the approach of severe weather, bank up with ma¬ 
nure and cover with straw and mats to exclude the frost. 
Compost and Manures—Now is the time to make and 
collect these. Keep every receptacle or manufactory at 
work by supplying the hogs, cattle, horses, sheep, poultry 
and privies with mateiial to absorb the liquid and gasses. 
Too much muck can scarcely be used for these purposes. 
Decayed leaves also form an excellent ingredient in gar¬ 
den soils. Prepare materials for early hot beds. 
Currants and Gooseberries—Prune ff. those neglected 
last month. If the ground will not admit of putting in 
cuttings now, bury them in sand in the cellar or cover 
with boards in the garden where snowbanks will lie upon 
them. 
Fig Trees-Bury as raspberries. 
Fruit on Shelves or in the Fruit room—Look over fre¬ 
quently, using that which commences to decay. A mod¬ 
erately cool, dry atmosphere is best to preserve fruit. 
Fruit Borders—Cover with a mulch of coarse manure 
to protect from severe freezing and enrich the earth. An 
embankment about each tree will often prevent its being 
girdled by mice. Trees may be set ff. on warm soils, as 
long as they are not frozen. 
Grapes—Lay tender varieties upon the ground ff. if not 
already done. A moderate covering of earth is best for 
Harnburgs and olher house grapes w hich have been grow¬ 
ing out doors. Make cuttings now as the vines are being 
pruned. 
Hot Beds—Collect materials such as leaves, tan bark, 
&c., and have a quantity of si able manure in readiness. 
Prepare sash and frames that every thing may be in readi¬ 
ness in season. Make beds at the South, m. 11. for early 
gardening, guarding carefully against frjrst. 
Parsneps—Dig as wanted, securing a'few to bury in 
sand in the cellar before the ground freezes. 
Pruning of Grapes and small fruits may appropriately 
be done ff. making cuttings from the trimmings. 
Raspberries—Cover ff. any omitted last month. Canes 
may still be set out ff. unless the ground is frozen. 
Rhubarb—A covering of stable manure will both enrich 
the bed and keep out frost so as to get an earlier start in 
the Spring. 
Salsify—Treat as parsneps. 
Seeds—Cleanout any remaining in pods or capsules, 
and label for Spring use. Place them out of the reach of 
mice. 
Spinach—Cover with straw or salt hay ff. that intended 
to stand through the Winter. Thin out previous to cover¬ 
ing. 
Strawberry Beds were probably covered as directed 
last month. If not, neglect them no longer. 
Tools—Repair and make as you have leisure. 
Turnips—Harvest and' store ff. any still in the ground. 
Look to those covered pits and bank up as the weather 
demands, closing the ventilators at the top. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 
Plants in these grounds, require very little attention 
during this their resting season. If tender shrubs were 
not protected last month they should receive care ff. as 
recommended at page 287. Evergreens may require 
looking to and their loose branches tied up to prevent 
snow from breaking them down. 
Where the land will admit of working, grading and lay 
ing out of new grounds can be done to advantage, es¬ 
pecially if the Spring should prove wet. l’ut*everything 
in neat order that there be as many attractions as possi¬ 
ble even in Winter. 
Auriculas, Anemones, Polyanthus, Ranunculus and 
Primroses—Cover with coarse manure, leaves or straw, to 
prevent sudden and severe freezing. 
Biennial and perennial roots, unless covered with snow, 
will keep better, and start fresher for a covering of straw 
or coarse manure. 
Bulbs—Plant ff. any which chance to be still out of 
ground.. Full directions have already been given. See 
also the illustrations and remarks on page 290. Beds of 
these will be improved by protecting them as above. 
Chrysanthemums—Cut away old flower stalks marking 
the desirable varieties you wish to propagate from. The 
roots may now be divided and reset where the grounds 
are in working condition. 
Dahlias—Take up ff. any roots still in the ground. Ta¬ 
ble, and pack away in dry earth or sand, in a moderately 
cool cellar free from dampness. Do not permit them to 
freeze. 
Daisies, Carnations and Pinks—Protect as Auriculas, 
or they are liable to Winter-kill. Evergreen brush spread 
over them forms a good covering. A few may be taken to 
the green house for early blooming. 
Dielytra Spectabilis—Divide roots If. and reset where 
an increase of stock is desired. 
Frames and Pits—Open to the air in all suitable weath¬ 
er, but guard against admitting frost. 
Gladiolus—Treat as Dahlias. 
Labels and Stakes—Now and next month is a good 
time to prepare a supply for Spring use. Those made of 
pine or cedar and painted white are the simplest, and an¬ 
swer a very good purpose. 
Peonies—Divide and plant out ff old or new varieties. 
Fall planting will insure a belter bloom next Spring than 
if planted at that lime. 
Roses may be set out ff —Separate layers made in the 
the Spring and part the roots to increase the number of 
choice kinds. Tender varieties may be laid down and cov 
ered with earth for Winter protection. 
Shrubs—Plant the early blooming hardy varieties this 
Fall, if the season will permit. Protect tender varieties 
as directed on page 287. 
Stakes, Dahlia Poles, &c.—Collect and house foranolh 
er season. 
Trees may still be planted in many localities 
GREEN AND HOT HOUSES. 
The directions of last month apply to this. It is essen 
tial that a proper temperature be maintained, ventilating 
at suitable times. 
THE APIARY. 
BY M qUINBY. 
Everything should be in readiness, to put bees into their 
Winter quarters at the commencement of severe weather, 
but be sure that they have had the benefit of all the pleas¬ 
ant days of Autumn likely to occur, before removal from 
their Summer stand. Where there are fifty or more, it is 
economy to Winter in the house. The combined w'armth 
generated by a large nurpber of stocks in one room, makes 
the temperature at all times quite mild, and experience 
proves that the consumption of honey is much less, than 
when Wintered in the cold. Unless the room is very 
small and warm, independant of the bees, less than fifty 
stocks might be too cold. In all cases, let the room be 
perfectly dark— the holes in the top of the hive opened— 
and if not nervous at seeing things stand on their heads, 
it would be best to turn the hive bottom up on some little 
blocks an inch square—this will let the air circulate 
through the hive, and carry off the moisture which is often 
the cause of moldy combs. 
To Winter bees in the open air, the situation should be 
a warm one, our. of the prevailing cold wind as much as 
possible. Let the sun strike the hive part of the day at 
least. Notwithstanding the apparent loss of some bees on 
the snow, there is much less hazard in getting a stock 
through the Winter, than w hen continually shaded. It is 
very important that they be properly ventilated, and pro¬ 
tected from the mice. 
For ventilation, raise the hives containing the strongest 
families one fourth of an inch from the floor. If there are 
any holes in the side, or other place, large enough to ad¬ 
mit mice, nail over some strips of w ire cloth to keep them 
out, but leave just room for the bees to pass. Open the 
holes in the top of the hive, and let the moisture pass up 
into the chamber or cap. 
Any empty boxes that have been on the hives, and those 
partially full, that are intended to be userl another year, 
should be packed away in some dry place, and at the 
same time freeze thoroughly, to destrpy all eggs of t>’ 
moth that may be about them. 
