388 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
of the buds, and again early in June, this time, 
however, greater care is necessary to avoid in¬ 
jury to the young shoots. The young insect is 
llien about commencing its Summer depredations, 
and all that escaped the Spring washing may be 
easily destroyed. Trees thus treated will not be 
troubled with the Bark Louse, the following Sum¬ 
mer, and if the application is extended to the ex¬ 
tremities of young shoots likely to be affected by 
(he aphis, it will be found to be a preventive for 
the attacks of that insect also. 
Where soft soap can not be obtained, common 
hard soap may be used instead ; half a pound dis¬ 
solved in two gallons of hot water. Harris re¬ 
commends a solution of two pounds of potash in 
seven quarts of water, or a pickle consisting of a 
quart of common salt in two gallons of water. No 
preparation, however, I believe to be so safe and 
efficacious as the one first mentioned. 
A piece of whale-oil soap, or even of common 
hard soap, mashed in the “ crotch ” of the princi¬ 
pal branches, and allowed to remain until washed 
down gradually by the rains—and when exhaust¬ 
ed, renewing the piece after washing the place 
thoroughly—will be found excellent for the gener¬ 
al health of the tree, and prevent the attacks of 
this and many other insects. 
GRAPE C ULTURE—NO. III. 
BY WILLIAM CHORLTON. 
In closing our directions for the year a few gen¬ 
eral remarks may not be out of place. Grape cul¬ 
ture, in this country, is yet in its infancy, notwith¬ 
standing the thousands of acres already devoted to 
it, and I would modestly predict that in a very few 
years it will prove to be an important item, and 
that ere long we 6hall be exporters of wine, and 
thus assist our embarrassed financiers out of part of 
their difficulties. I have argued the importance of 
this matter for many years, and that our native 
kinds were certain to improve until they would be¬ 
come equal to the exotics for all purposes. How 
far have we progressed up to the present time ? 
The Rebecca, a beautiful amber colored variety, 
that was sent out last year, is as fine flavored as a 
Prontignan, and if rightly manufactured, it is quite 
probable that as good wine will be made from the 
former, as the latter is famed for yielding. Diana 
and Delaware are but little inferior, ripening even 
earlier. Concord, and Hartford Prolific are hardier, 
and arrive at maturity earlier than the Isabella; 
consequently we have already the sorts to improve 
still farther upon and extend the area of vine grow¬ 
ing into more northern climates. It is now high 
time for our Southern friends to stir themselves. 
They have the Scuppernongs to experiment with. 
At present, even the best of this class, is little more 
than in a wild state ; whilst with care, and patience 
in raising seedlings from the finest fruit, a decided 
improvement will soon follow. 
On the western slope of the Rocky Mountains, 
and in California, the true European grape is indi¬ 
genous, flourishing well in that more temperate cli¬ 
mate. Here is a most encouraging opportunity, 
and with skill in hybridizing, the result in a few 
generations may be equal to any yet known, to say 
the least. 
Excepting in the most Northern, or North-west¬ 
ern parts of the country, the pruning of the hardy 
Rinds of out-door grapes may be proceeded with. 
It ought not, however, to be done during severe 
frost. Where the land will still admit of being 
worked, the upper soil should be loosened with the 
fork some four or five inches deep over the whole 
surface, after which a mulching of decayed leaves, 
vegetable refuse, or barn-yard manure, will more 
than repay the cost. On a large scale this might 
seem tedious, but it does not alter the case; for if 
good attention, and the best culture will pay on a 
small scale, they will be found equally remunera¬ 
tive in extensive culture. Depend upon it, one of 
the main secrets of making grape culture pay, in 
all the varied departments, is in enabling each vine 
to do its best. Never attempt more than you have 
capital, convenience and energy to carry out. 
If the vines in the Cold Grapery have not been 
pruned, do it at once, after which, clean and wash 
with the mixture recommended in February. Af¬ 
ter this operation, prepare for covering, by bringing 
the vines down to a horizontal position along the 
line of planting. Tie the cane loosely to the near¬ 
est wire, about two or three feet from the ground 
level, so that when the head is brought down, this 
lower portion will remain in a nearly perpendicular 
position. Next draw the upper portion down to a 
level, and tie it to the wires or stakes in a horizon¬ 
tal position. Lay the next in like manner along 
side the first, and so on, until near the other end of 
the house, where some three or four canes will have 
to be reversed. They are now ready for the cover¬ 
ing. This for young plants need be only a three 
inch coating of straw tied around with twine, but 
for older vines, that have got spurs on, it is more 
convenient to use long boxes made deep enough, 
and nailed together without a top. These inverted 
over the rows make a neat covering. The most effec¬ 
tual method, however, is to fix boards along the 
front of the vines, and close to them. Fill in the 
space thus formed along the front of the house, 
with dry tree leaves. The vines are thus enveloped 
in a good non-conducting material that will main¬ 
tain a low yet even temperature through the winter. 
It is difficult to convince some persons that these 
exotics require such effectual protection, but the ex¬ 
treme cold of the last two winters has in part con¬ 
vinced them of its necessity. Throughout the win¬ 
ter let the house be kept cool, by opening the venti¬ 
lators every clear day, and close up at night, or at 
all times when the weather is cloudy, and during 
severe frosts. 
Toung vines propagated and grown in pots the 
present year may be plunged to the rims in a box 
frame. Fill in over the heads with leaves or straw, 
and place shutters or glass sashes on the top. They 
may also be preserved inside a Cold Grapery, or 
shed. The hardy kinds, too, that have not ripened 
well, and are intended for replanting next Spring, 
will be benefitted by lifting and heeling in close to¬ 
gether in a trench, covering the tops with earth, or 
a thick layer of evergreen boughs. Straw out of 
doors becomes saturated with the winter’s rains, 
and is worse than useless. 
In the Retarding House, where the grapes are 
only ripe, maintain a dry but cool atmosphere, and 
keep out frost by slow fires. Let the thermometer 
range from 45° to 60° at night, and 62° to 60° with 
sunshine. 
GRAPES AS HOU SE PLANTS. 
Somebody has recommended to cultivate dwarf 
grape-vines as parlor window plants ; and the 
suggestion strikes us favorably. There are cer¬ 
tain utilitarians who can not consent to grow any¬ 
thing which does not furnish food for the stomach, 
or money for the pocket; as for “ cluttering up ” 
their rooms with geraniums, roses and lilies, that 
is all folly ! Now, let such persons try a grape 
vine at their south window. Plant in a large pot 
or neatly painted box, and train the vines on wires 
stretched across the window-frame. We can 
conceive that such a plant would satisfy the sense 
of beauty and utility at the same time, and that 
in a high degree. It would he the finest orna¬ 
ment of the house; and as for the fruit, why cer¬ 
tainly that would be appreciated. 
Neither believe rashly, nor reject obstinately 
IMPROVING OLD ORCHARDS. 
Desirable as pears, cherries and plums are, we 
can hardly count on very large and constant sup¬ 
plies of such fruit. Our climate, or soil, is so un¬ 
favorable to their growth, or they are infested with 
so many insects and diseases, and require so much 
care, tftat few farmers can devote sufficient 
attention to their culture. The apple must be our 
main dependence; and it is no mean dependence 
either. Yet, strange to say, many orchards are 
treated with neglect. The trunks and limbs of 
trees are suffered to become mossy, the tops are 
allowed to grow up a dense mass of brush, and 
the fruit to remain of an inferior quality. 
Now, there are few men who can really afford 
to keep such orchards. Why not break up the 
ground, and if it is not thought best to let it lie 
fallow, then give it a coat of manure and raise 
some kind of hoed crop upon it. If possible, 
mulch the roots of each tree with old straw or 
chips. Once a year, at least, scrub the trunks 
with weak lye, or potash water, to remove the 
moss and rout the insects which harbor there. 
Then, as to pruning, there is enough to do, but it 
must be done in the right way. It will not an¬ 
swer to mount the trees with rough nailed boots, 
and, ax in hand, hack away like a woodsman fell¬ 
ing a forest. Tread on the limbs carefully, so as 
not to start the bark. Use a fine-toothed pruning 
saw; thin out the branches so as to leave an open 
symmetrical head, and where large branches 
must be taken off, cover the wounds with graft¬ 
ing-wax, or a solution of gum-shellac. If the 
fruit is of inferior quality, graft in choicer sorts, 
beginning at the top, and grafting only one-third 
of the tree each year. It costs no more to raise 
good kinds of fruit than poor; the satisfaction 
and the income are ten-fold greater. 
DAHLIAS FROM SEED. 
Miss M. C. P., of Freeport, Ill., inquires how to 
propagate Dahlias from seed, and how long be¬ 
fore they will bloom. The seed can be sown in 
thte Spring, and small tubers will be produced the 
first year. These taken up in the Fall and re¬ 
planted in Spring, will sometimes, though rarely, 
produce feeble flowers the next year. If taken up 
the second Autumn and again replanted in Spring, 
a better bloom will be produced, but three or four 
years is required to bring them to maturity. They 
are in this respect like the potato. But this plant 
has been materially changed by propagation—its 
stamens having become almost entirely changed 
to petals, and perfect seed is seldom produced. 
On this account, propagation from seed is now 
rarely attempted. 
Again, when sown, inferior varieties are usually 
more numerous than good, as it sports into kinds 
widely different from the parent. Better leave 
this to amateur cultivators, who have already pro¬ 
duced almost everything desirable in a dahlia, 
save a few colors which they are still striving for. 
Procure the roots, or potted plants, in the Spring, 
from seed stores or nurserymen, and you can in¬ 
crease the stock rapidly by separating and planting 
the numerous roots produced annually. 
The grand error of life is, we look too far; we 
scale the heavens—we dig down to the centre of 
the earth for systems—and we forget ourselves. 
Truth lies before us; it is in the highway path, 
and the plowman treads on it with clouted shoes. 
One often regrets saying too much, but seldom 
of saying too little. 
Next to my friends, I love my enemies, for 
from them I first hear my faults. 
