266 THE HOLY LAND. 
CHAP, interestihg part of the living picture. He had 
t -^- > a long red beard, and wore a dress as distin- 
guished by feudal magnificence and military 
grandeur as it is possible to imagine. He 
received us with the usual hospitality of his 
countrymen, dismissed the escort which had 
accompanied us from Acre, seemed proud of 
placing us under the protection of his peculiax' 
soldiers, and allowed us a guard, appointed 
from his own troops, to ensure our safety as far 
as Napolose. We had some conversation 
with him upon the disordered state of the 
country, particularly of Galilee. He said, that 
the rebel Arabs were in great number upon 
all the hills near the Plain of Esdraelon; that 
they were actuated, at this critical juncture, 
by the direst motives of revenge and despair, 
for the losses they had sustained in consequence 
of the ravages committed by Djezzar^ army ; 
but that he believed we should not meet with 
any molestation in our journey to Jerusalem. 
After leaving Santorri, our road was devious 
and very uneven, over a mountainous tract of 
"^XcHEM country, until we came in sight of Napolosey 
otherwise called Neapolis, and Napoleos, the 
antient Sichem. The view of this place much 
surprised us, as we had not expected to find 
a city of such magnitude in the road to 
