W VOYAGE UP THE NILE, 
CHAP, upon the Nile as the most pleasing part of all 
■ our travels ; but that which was passed during 
our residence on shore, as the most disagreea- 
ble ; notwithstanding the commodious accom- 
modations we met with, in the cities of Rosetta, 
Cairo, and Alexandria. 
After passing RacJwianie, darkness deprived 
us of the very interesting landscape with which 
we had been continually gratified during the 
day. We continued sailing almost the whole 
night, under the care and guidance of our steady 
pilot at the helm, who, as master of the djerm, 
remained at his post until morning dawned. 
Four men, besides himself, constituted the whole 
of the crew ; all of whom were Arabs. During 
the time they remained in our service, they were 
diligent, industrious, faithful, always sober, 
obliging, and very skilful in managing their 
vessel. When day-light appeared, upon Satur- 
day, August the eleventh, they told us they had 
anchored for some time at a village, fearful of 
being boarded by pirates during the extreme 
darkness that prevailed, especially as the light 
in our cabin rendered the cljerm visible from the 
sides of the river. About eight o'clock a. m. 
we reached a miserable town, called Koum or 
Knum 
schcriff. Komme Scheri^, built entirely with mud. Soon 
