102 GRAND CAIRO. 
^^T^^' desirous of uninterrupted repose, or who are 
able to endure the invariable dulness which pre- 
vails in every society to which strangers are ad- 
mitted, may, perhaps, tolerate, without murmur- 
ing, a short residence in the midst of this dull 
and dirty city. The effect, whether it be of 
climate, or of education, or of government, is 
the same among all the settlers in Egypt, ex- 
cept the Arabs; namely, a disposition to exist 
without exertion of any kind , to pass whole 
days upon beds and cushions; smoking, and 
counting beads. This is what Maillet termed 
Le vrai genie Egyptienne ' ; and that it may be 
acquired by residing among the native inha- 
bitants of Cciiro, is evident from the appearance 
exhibited by Europeans who have passed some 
years in the city. 
Upon our first coming, we had no other place 
of lodging than what our djerm afforded. This 
was stationed, during the day, at Buldc, and it 
was guarded by our faithful Arabs. Every 
night these men moved our vessel over to the 
Isle of Rhouda, and anchored close to the camp 
of the Indian army, with a view to avoid the 
(l) Description de YEgypte, torn. II. p. 220. a laHaye, 1740. 
