III. 
] 10 GRAND CAIRO. 
CHAP, series of dykes filled with the muddy water of 
the river, we at last entered the Eshequir Lake, 
or Birket ilEzbequie, at six o'clock p.m. Having 
crossed this piece of water, we landed, and 
went to the house we had hired; observing 
everywhere the same wretched appearances of 
dirt and degradation. The inhabitants, rejoicing 
in the expulsion of the French, and enjoying 
the festivity of the season, were carousing by 
the sides of the numerous channels then filled 
with the muddy and stagnant water of the 
Nile, Some degree of danger, too, might be 
apprehended from the turbulent mirth of Turkish 
soldiers, who where firing off their tophdikes in 
all directions; otherwise the sight of so many 
cheerful groupes afforded a more pleasing spec- 
tacle, than either the buildings of the city, or 
its boasted canal. But how Europeans, de- 
scribing Cairo, can call any thing magnijicent 
which is surpassed even by the poorest parts of 
Venice, is really surprising. To read some of 
the accounts which have been published of this 
city ', one might believe that they were derived 
(l) " Cette GRANDE ET iLLUSTRE viLLE," says f'amleb, (p. 117. 
Nouvelle Relation d'un Voyage en Egypte, Paris, 1677.) "Ei.le est 
SITUEE DANS UNE PLAINE LA PLUS DELtCIEl'SE DU MONDE." (Ibid. 
p. ISO.) 
