PARNASSUS. 269 
journey down ; but we spent nearly as much chap. 
time in descending to the spot from the sum- * — , — ' 
mit as in goin<^ up from Arracovia. We left 
that village at half after nine in the forenoon, 
and reached the io^ o{ Parnassus at two p.m. 
At three p. m. we began to descend, and did not 
arrive at the monastery before seven ; so that 
we had now employed ten hours in the whole 
undertaking. We were shewn, by some of the 
monks, into a large empty room, without an 
article of furniture, but containing a spacious 
hearth and a chimney, where we kindled a 
fire ; and heaping a large quantity of wood, we 
passed the night very comfortably, although 
istretched upon the bare floor. This monastery 
contains fifty priests, who expressed more caUytn. 
astonishment at our coming, and seemed more 
curious and inquisitive, than any we had before 
seen in Greece : but their state of ignorance 
did not differ from that of the other wild 
tenants of their lofty wilderness; and their 
simplicity was such as to excite the laughter 
even of our guides, at every remark they made. 
They are called Caloyers ; a name probably 
known in Greece long before the introduction 
of Christianity; being simply derived either 
from KaXog U^svg, the " good priest ^^ or from 
KcO^oyi^aioi, signifying " good old Ja I hers." Their 
