TO THE STRAITS OF THERMOPYL.^. 297 
the precipices, and broken rocks, which ap- ^l^^^'- 
peared on either side crowned with thick-set — -^ — ' 
forests of oak and pine trees, some parts might 
be observed less severe ; but these transitions 
were of a grey cast; harmonizing with the 
shadows among which they appeared. 
Hence we descended to Bodoniiza; and not Bodonuza. 
being permitted to enter the fortress, we passed 
the night in the village which is below the 
walls. As we entered, we observed part of an 
antient paved-way and an aqueduct ; but there 
were no other antiquities about the spot ; nei- 
ther marbles nor inscriptions ; nor could we 
procure a single medal. The poor inhabitants 
were unaccustomed to the sight of coffee ; an 
article of a traveller's fare almost essential to 
his existence in Turkey, and common enough 
in all the great towns. Their wine was also 
bad : so that we fared but ill in this part of our 
journey. The next morning {Dec. 19.) we 
examined the outside of the citadel : but all 
the influence of our Tchohodar could not pro- 
cure us admission to the interior. We saw 
plainly that it had ever been an important 
bulwark in guarding this passage. There are 
remains of antient walls below the hill upon 
which it stands, as of a town below the 
