FROM THE STRAITS OF THERMOPYLAE. 32 1 
Hence we passed over the swampy Flain of chap. 
Trachinia, in the midst of the worst air of all , 
Greece, overgrrown with tall reeds, and inhabited 1','^'°?^. 
O ' Trachinia. 
by buffaloes ; animals, almost amphibious, de- 
lighting in stagnant pools and watery plains, 
and always seeming to thrive the best where 
the human race thrives the worst. The marshes 
of Terracina in Italy are fall of them ; and the 
lands oi Lower Egypt y inundated by the Nile. We 
crossed the river Sperchtus, by means of a stone 
bridge : it was at this time overflowing its banks, 
flooding all the land near to it; and rolling, 
like the Nile, in many a muddy vortex. Upon 
the stone bridge the Turks established a dervene, Turkish 
as a barrier, upon this side of the defile ; which 
may be considered as the Gate of Phthiotis and 
Thessaly. It is held by Albanians, who col- 
lect a tribute from passengers for the privilege 
of passing. Soon after crossing this bridge, the 
ground gradually rises, towards the north, from 
the flooded and marshy land. We saw a large 
tumulus in the plain; and immediately after- 
wards arrived at the town of Zeitun, distant zcUuu. 
three hours' journey from the kct springs of 
Thermopyl^. 
Zeitun may be described as a miniature mode 
of Athens. The town had suffered grievously 
VOL. VII. Y 
