TO PHARSALIA. 329 
Pharsa, comforted us with the assurance that chap. 
1 ,7 VIII. 
the khan was near. 
The Reader would perhaps smile if he knew Turkuu 
what sort of comfort the khan itself afforded, 
when we arrived. All these places are alike in 
Turkey. There is not a dog-kennel in England 
where a traveller might not lodge more commo- 
diously than in one of these khans ; and the 
caravanserais are yet worse than the khans. A 
dirty square room, the floor covered with dust, 
and full of rat-holes, without even a vestige of 
furniture, is all he finds as the place for his 
repose. If he arrive without provisions, there 
is not the smallest chance of his getting any 
thing to eat, or even straw for his bed. In such 
an apartment we passed the night; — unable 
even to kindle a fire ; for they brought us green 
wood, and we were almost suffocated with 
smoke ; — not to mention the quantity of vermin 
with which such places always abound, and 
the chance of plague-infection from their filthy 
walls. This subject is merely touched upon, 
that persons who have not visited Turkey may 
know what they ought to expect, before they un- 
dertake a journey thither. Yet, even to all this, 
weariness, and watchfulness, and shivering cold, 
and other privations, will at last fully reconcile 
