330 FROM THE STRAITS OF THERMOPYLAE 
CHAP, travellers, and make them long for such a 
^ — . — ' housing. In these places there is no separation 
of company; — masters and servants, cattle- 
drivers and guides, and every casual pas- 
senger of the road, make their bed together. 
We had been scarcely long enough, in our sorry 
chamber at Pharsnlus, to sweep away some of 
Tahtar thc dirt upou its floor, when other Tahtar 
Couriers. 
Couriers arrived ; travelling as the former one 
(who passed us upon the road with despatches), 
night and day. It was curious to see how 
these men take what they call their Caif 
(refreshment) at one of these khans. The horse 
is left standing in the court; while for the 
space of about ten minutes, or during the 
interval of changing horses, the Tahtar squats,-— 
for it cannot be called sitting, — with his back 
against the wall, supporting himself upon the 
soles of his feet, and inhaling rapidly the fumes 
of his pipe upon his lungs ; sending it back in 
curling volumes through his nostrils. Then, if 
he can procure about as much muddy coffee as 
would fill the bowl of a table-spoon, he utters 
his Alhamdulillah (God he praised!) and con- 
tinues his expedition with renovated energy. 
The surprising journeys undertaken by these 
men on horseback, and the rapidity with which 
they are performed, are su(?h as, if related. 
