THESSALONICA. 443 
the town, and to the quarter inhabited by the chap. 
Jews, with whom they had no intercourse. > 
Unfortunately, this part of the city contained 
almost the only antiquity worth seeing in the 
place — the Propylcea of the antient Hippodrome, 
or of the Forum ; and we had determined not to 
leave Salonica without obtaining a sight of the 
famous alto-relievos there preserved. This, it 
was said, we might do, if we were only careful 
not to suffer any person to touch us : and as our 
excellent friend Mr. Chamaud, more concerned 
than any other person in the consequences of 
our going thither, was urgent that we should 
see all the antiquities, we determined to venture. 
We had escaped the contagion in Bethlehem, 
where the plague raged with even greater fury ; 
and had therefore reason to hope that the same 
precautions we had there used might also be 
the means of our safety here. 
The walls of Salonica give a very remarkable Waiu of 
- . the CitT. 
appearance to the town, and cause it to be seen 
from a great distance, being white-washed ; 
and, what is still more extraordinary, they are 
also painted. They extend in a semicircular 
manner from the sea, inclosing the whole of the 
buildings within a peribolus, whose circuit is five 
or six miles ; but a great part of the space 
