40 FROM THESSALONICA, 
CHAP, Their appearance was singular enough; for 
they came towards us, riding astride, with 
their veils on ; each horse being richly capari- 
soned, and conducted by a pedestrian attendant. 
These ladies were also followed by their female 
slaves on horseback. As soon as they perceived 
us, they caused their horses to be led out of 
the road, and to be placed so that their backs 
might be towards us as we passed ; lest they 
should be profaned by our beholding the only 
part of their faces visible through their thick 
veils, namely, their eyes. We rode bareheaded 
by them; a mark of our respect, however, which 
they were not likely to understand, and perhaps 
misconstrued into impertinent assurance. 
The dogs in this country, as in many parts 
of Macedonia, wear body-clothes ; and these 
animals afforded us the last remaining traces 
of the Macedonian costume. After entering 
Thrace, which is generally inhabited by 
Turks, we saw no more Arnauts or Albanians. 
When the Arnauts perform journeys on horse- 
back, instead of allowing their women to ride 
asperginibus crebris, velut quaedam vellera mollientes, ex lanugiue, et 
liquore luixtain subiilitatem tenerrimam pectunt, nentesqiie subteg- 
mine conficiunt sericum, ad usus antehac nobilium, nunc etiam 
infimorum sine ull^ discretione proficiens." 
