TO THE COUNTRY OF THE CICONES. 79 
eight arches over a small river. We then ^'^Jj^^- 
came to another village and a ruined bridge, "— v — ' 
distant four hours from Gijmmergine. In this 
manner we continued riding through this dreary 
plain for another hour, when it began to grow 
dark : and as the Sumdjees were so surly, that 
they refused to answer any of our questions, 
finding that we were close to a village called 
Tchofts-tcheyr, or Shaft-cheyr, we resolved to halt Tchafis- 
for the night. Here a new difficulty occurred, "" ^^'^* 
for we could not prevail upon any of the inha- 
bitants to lodge us : but as it gave occasion to 
one of the most remarkable instances of hospi- 
tality perhaps ever known, it becomes a duty 
to relate our adventure more particularly. 
The rascally Surudjees who were with our bag- 
gage had already dismounted it, and were leaving 
us upon the bare earth, when an old Turk, Extraordj- 
casually passing, and hearing some altercation taiityofa 
between these men and the Tchohodar, de- 
manded the cause of the dispute. Being 
informed that the Surudjees refused to proceed 
any farther, and that some poor Djoivrs^ were 
(1) Lord Byron's beautiful poem of the Giaour having g^iven rise 
to frequent inquiry as to the proper mode of writing this word, 
whether Djowr, or Giaour; it may be proper to add, that both are 
«orrect, the difference being only local. A learned Orientalist, the 
Rev. George Cecil Renouard, has observed, that the Turks of the Islands 
uie Djowr, and all the Moslems of the Continent, GhUur. 
