TO THE PASSAGE OF MOUNT HiEMUS. 19^ 
women o( Constantinople are conveyed through the chai*. 
streets when they take the air. v , -^^ 
Upon our arrival at Kulcfmk Tchekmadjeh, we 
found what a different thing it was to travel in 
the suite of a Moslem Ambassador^ our present 
reception in this place being compared with that 
which we experienced but three months before; 
and it convinced us of the opposite impressions 
that may be made upon the minds of travellers 
under such different circumstances. Before, all 
was filth and wretchedness. Now we found a 
most cleanly and excellent house prepared for 
our reception ; the staircase and the rooms well 
washed, and every thing looking comfortably^ 
We had scarcely taken possession of it for the 
night, when a message came from his Excellency^ 
inviting us to visit him. Being conducted to interview 
the house where he lodged, we found a little Sceiiency 
man wrapped up in large pelisses, sitting in one 
corner of a small apartment, much more mean 
than that which he had provided for us. He 
addressed us by a title he always used in speak- 
ing to us afterwards during the journey ; caUing 
us Bey-Zadehs\' and bidding us be welcome; 
(l) Bey-Zadeh signifies, YxierMy ," Son of a Prince ;" hat the ex,* 
pression is sometimes used merely as an expression of politeness iu 
conversation. 
