TO THE PASSAGE OF MOUNT H^MUS. 227 
this place, we again crossed the river Kamichi- 
m ; and close to it there was a small village, 
where we saw a large camp of Gipsies, who are 
the smiths of Bulgaria. They had placed their 
waggons so as to form a square court, with 
covered sides like sheds, in the middle of the 
village. In these courts of the Hamaxohii, we 
have the orighial form of all the Greek houses, 
and of all Northern nations ; like those now seen 
even in Finland and Lapland, and among all the 
Scythian tribes. For the rest, the Bulgarian 
Gipsies are exactly like those of England; the 
women were squalling about, telling fortunes, 
with their usual wild and tawny complexions. 
Here they are called Tchinganei. The town of 
Shumla is very considerable, and it is well for- 
tified, with ramparts and a double fosse. As we 
drew nigh to the works, four of its principal 
inhabitants, accompanied by about fifty soldiers 
bearing arms, came to meet the Ambassador at 
the gate of the town ; and having kissed the 
hem of his robes, after the Turkish manner, 
mounted their horses, and conducted him to the 
house prepared for his reception. We had 
excellent quarters assigned for us, in the house 
of a Greek, close to that of the Ambassador, 
who sent a message to us, saying, that it was 
his intention to remain the following day in 
Q 2 
