AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
G7 
.N'./a.—S i-r our lulvurtisumeuts and order an early 
fc-Uj'j'iy «»('llinsc McuUctt. 
Sjundch .— L'lK'DVur llial started last fall and stir 
Ibe .-iiil. Sow seed iii rieli ground. 
Tonuilucis .—Sow ill liot-l)ed and transplant to a 
gentle Liot-bed wlien two inelies high. The plants 
will be all the better and stochier if transplanted 
two or three times tiefore tlie final planting out. 
Turnips .—Sow siiring sorts early in a warm spot. 
Winter Cherry .—Tvci\.t in the same way as tonnatoes. 
Fj’seil CSsas-«84!si.—The advantages of hav¬ 
ing the fruit garden separate from the kitchen gar¬ 
den have been often insisted upon. Wherever there 
is suiUcicut space, the trees and shrubs should have 
a place to themselves, and not be subject to have 
their roots dist urbed by the frciiuent si'ading nec¬ 
essary to prepare the ground for vegetables. Under 
this head we notice slirubs and dwarf trees ; standard 
trees are included in the directions for the orchard. 
Planting may be commenced as soon as the frost 
is well out. Thesoil of the fruit irarden should be 
drained, enriched and deeply plowed or spaded. 
Blackberries .—Set the improved kinds 0 fcetajiart 
each way, cutting back the canes to 0 inches. 
Currants. —Prune, and make cuttings of last 
year’s wood. Transplant already rooted plants. 
Bioarf Trees.—The remarks lu^on cutting back at 
the time of planting, ajiply with even more force to 
dwarfs. Now is a good time to commence to form 
dwarf pyramids .as described in January, jiage 17. 
Guosebe-n-ies .—Treat as currants. The Houghton 
and American seedling are the only reliable sorts. 
Grapes .—If the vines were left unpruned last 
autumn, attend to them eaidy. Those which at the 
fall pruning had extra buds left on the canes may 
be now cut back to the bud intended to grow. 
Plant new vines. There is sc.arcely a y.ard or gar¬ 
den that has uot room for from one to a dozen 
vines which will fill up spaces now unoccupied. 
Recollect that a vine may be grown to a single 
stake, or may be made to spread over a large space. 
liaspberries.—Do not uncover too soon. Plant 
new vines, especially the Black Caps, which are 
prolific and hardy, and goodforhomeuse ormarket. 
Strawberries .—Prepare ground for new beds in 
time for planting. Use old manure ; spade deeply. 
FSower Cla.rdem and Eiawn —Spring 
work may commence this month, or the severity of 
the season may put it over to April. The Calendar 
suggests the earliest work, but the time of doing it 
will depend upon the character of the season. It 
is uot well to be too much in a hurry. The ground 
must be dry and warm before growth will com¬ 
mence. Much clearing up will be required wher¬ 
ever this was neglected in autumn, and new borders 
and walks may be laid out and prepared. 
Annuals .—While many consider that the trouble 
of raising annuals is all out of proportion to their 
value, yet there are some which no one would wil¬ 
lingly do without. Asters, Balsams, Double Zinni¬ 
as and Petunias as well as many others are needed 
in every garden. The list of annuals is very large, 
and the best way is to send to a seedsman fora cata¬ 
logue and make a selection. Start those designed 
for early blooming in the green-house or hot-bed. 
Cannas.—W space permits, have a mound-like bed 
of these in the lawn. They may be started from 
seed, but a quicker effect may be had from roots. 
Start the seeds in heat and do not put out plants 
until settled warm weather. 
CTimbers.— Introduce these wherever it can be 
be done with good effect. The Honeysuckles, 
Climbing Roses, Wistaria and Trumpet Creeper, are 
good if flowers are wanted. If a dense green screen 
is needed to cover a trellis, nothing does better 
than a vine of Concord, Hartford Prolific, or some 
other vigorous growing grape. It must be grown 
without reference to fruit, but merely for wood. 
Clematis .—This is a most valuable genus of plants; 
some of the newer ones, such as Helena, Sophia, 
and SieboUli are beautiful low climbers. They 
arc propagated by dividing the root. 
Edyings .—Reset box as soon as the ground opens. 
Gravel Wallis.—Go over with a heavy rake and 
add fresh gravel, if needed, and roll. Make new 
walks, putting down coarse stones before adding 
the gravel, in order to secure good drainage. 
Hedges .—Set deciduous hedges, if they are pre¬ 
ferred to evergreen, which must be deferred until 
in growth. Tamarisk, Barberry, Privet, and many 
other shrubs may be made into a garden hedge. 
Herbaceous Terennials .—Every good garden should 
have a stock of these. The finer Phloxes, Diccn- 
tra. Columbines, Herbaceous Spirreas, and many 
others, give an abundance of flowers by simply di¬ 
viding anii resetting every two or three years. 
Hot-beds .—Prepare for starting seeds of annuals, 
cuttings of bedding plants, dahlias, etc. 
Lawns .—Top dress with wood ashes or nice com¬ 
post which is free from weed seeds. 
Manure .—For the main purposes of horticulture, 
this must be well decomposed. Save the hot-bed 
materials for the flower garden. Decomposed sods 
or leaf mould from the woods are always useful. 
Roses .—Cut back the strong stems of Perpetuals, 
China and Tea roses severely, and they will bloom 
all the better. Thin out small and useless wood. 
Cut out old wood from climbers and leave only 
strong .and vigorous shoots. 
Shrubs .—These are so useful both in large and 
small grounds that we cannot too often recommend 
planting them. The volume for last year contains 
notes on many fine native and foreign species. 
Prune, if it has been left undone until now. It 
will not do to cut back all shrubs indiscriminately. 
The Lilacs, Weigelas, and many others, flower only 
from the buds formed last year, and if these are 
removed in pruning, no flowers will be had. Shrubs 
of this kind need only a judicious trimming. On the 
other hand the difl’erent species of Euonymus, Hi¬ 
biscus, (Althea) etc., produce flowers on the growth 
of the present season and may be cut back closely. 
Trees .—Make preparation for planting ornamen¬ 
tal trees, not only upon the lawn but along the 
roads. Nursery trees are better than those from 
the forest, as they have better roots; still trees from 
the edge of the woods, or from open grounds, and 
the tops freely cut back, are much better than none. 
Grecsi and Mot-Iffoiises. — The in¬ 
creasing heat of the sun will, on warm days, ren¬ 
der fire heat unnecessary, but some fire must be 
kept at night. Sudden changes must be watched 
and guarded against by judicious firing. Air freely in 
fine w eather. Prolong flowering by shading the gboss. 
Annuals .—Sow seeds in pots. 
Azaleas are now coming into full bloom, and will 
need free watering and syringing before the buds 
open. Repot young plants. 
Bedding Plants .—The stock of these must now 
be provided for, such as Verbenas, Salvias, Helio¬ 
tropes and all the things so useful in filling the bor¬ 
ders. Put in cuttings. 
Begonias .—^Repot in soil largely of leaf mould. 
Camellias .—Place in a warmer situation those be- 
gining to push a new growth; syringe frequently. 
Chrysanthemums .—Propagate by cuttings to get 
a stock for next autumn’s blooming. 
Cinerarias .—These are very subject to the attacks 
of the green fly, and will probably need fumigating. 
Keep rather cool, with plenty of light. 
Dahlias .—Those for early blooming maybe start¬ 
ed into growth, dividing the roots and potting 
them as soon as the sprouts show themselves. 
Fuchsias .—These may be started into growth, 
giving a moist atmosphere and plenty of pot-room. 
Bring into good shape by pinching in young growth. 
Japan Lilies .—These are often grown in pots, but 
may do better in the border. Pot them at once. 
Pelargoniums ..—Give water freely, and place as 
near as possible to the glass. Tie out the branches 
so as to give a fine shape for blooming. 
Repotting .—Those plants about to make a new 
growth will need to be shifted. If it is not desired 
to increase the size of the pots, wash the soil from 
the old balls, and carefully repot with nearly dry 
earth, then water freely and keep shaded a few days. 
Cold Ora'pery. —As a general thing it is 
not best to uncover the vines until April. Keep 
the house cool by oi)euing doors and vcnlilators, 
unless the weatlicr be very severe. Tliose u isli- 
ing to erect a cheap house are referred to j'age M. 
Ap«ary ira Msai-irSa .—Prepared by M. Qitinby. 
—There arc several things to be ascertabieil as soon a'. 
the weather is sufficieiitiy mild for tlie bees u> fly lieely. 
See if there are bees enougii in eacdi hive to reenre it 
against robbers, and whetlier tiiey have stoies to cany 
tiiem througli till flowers yield enough; whether tliey liave 
a queen ; w helher there is any moldy comb ; w lietlierany 
bees have been frozen, or starved, and left in tlie combs 
to decompose. When bees first fly out in spring, it is not 
unusual (especially with such as have been in tlie liouse, 
and are changed to some new stand, wlien taken out.) for 
part of the bees belonging to one liive to desert and join 
another. To ascertain the true condition of tilings, on a 
clear morning turn the hive over, and let the sun among 
the combs, and see how far tlie cluster exiends. Do not 
mistake a cluster of dead bees for live ones. Enougii to 
fill a pint measure would not defend the hive against rob¬ 
bers, or warrant any expectation of a swarm, unless sucli 
hive can be isolated, and free from all, molestaiion by 
others. If it has a queen, it may serve to furnisli some 
queenless colony wiili a niotlier; or a hive with more tlian 
its share of bees may be taken, and the bees equalized 
by changing the hives each to the otlier's stand, if tlie 
colony is nearly out of stores, and you cannot tell by 
lifting it, it is now a good time while ihe hive is inverted 
to look for sealed honey. If there is any it may be seen 
near the top and outside. As long as any can be seen, 
they will not be destitute in two weeks unless robbed. 
The lime which it is thought the honey will last slionki 
be marked on a label, and attached to the hive. When 
necessary to feed, it is safest for those not familiar witli 
the process, to take the hive to some dark room till all 
that is given them is stored. The least trouble is to in¬ 
vert the hive, and lay a piece of comb honey directly on 
the combs; if strained honey is to be fed, set a saucer 
on the combs, pressing it into the combs till it rests firmly, 
then pour in the honey, and cover with short pieces of 
cut straw. Honey thus fed should be scalded and 
skimmed, with the addition of a little water. Nearly all 
stocks should commence rai.'-in ; brood early in Maroh. 
To ascertain the presence of a queen, look tiist for 
Immature bees on the floor of the hive, then for the eggs. 
If none are found, then with smoke drive the bees from 
that part of the comb where they have clustered, and look 
for sealed brood. If no indications are discovered, and 
the colony is weak, provide a queen by uniting w ith this 
the bees of some other colony that Inis one. If the 
movable comb hive is queenless, it is ascertained at 
once by lifting out one or tw'o combs. While inspecting 
the hive, it would be well to look for moldy comb. When 
very bad, cut it out, but a slight affection may remain. 
Also,-if any of the bees have been frozen, or starved, 
they should be removed with a coarse wire bent into a 
hook at the end. It is unnecessary to look for frozen 
bees w'hen they have been wintered in a warm room. 
Such are generally either all dead or all alive. Those 
that have been housed should be set out the first tcarai 
clear day, even if there is snow. If it has lain a few days 
it will do no harm. Put out only eight or ten at once, 
and two or three hours afterwards as many more. Look 
at the hives just at sundown, and the loss of the queen is 
often indicated by the uneasy movements of the bees. If 
the queenless colony be removed, save the hive and con¬ 
tents undisturbed for a swarm. Should worms hatch out in 
the empty hive when the weather becomes warm, smoke 
with brimstone to destroy them. In sections where the 
bees do not find plenty of pollen, the flour substitute 
should be provided. See directions in March, 1864. 
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■5J«&reliiil>le Advertisers in our Col- 
limns. —We spare no reasonable effort to sift our ad¬ 
vertising columns from all unreliable parties, and gener¬ 
ally succeed. There are, of course, difficulties in Ihe 
way,but we prefer to come pretty near the standard rather 
than open our columns to all sorts of business which w ill 
pay for the space. Here is an example of one of the 
difficulties. A commission house offers an advertise 
ment. We inquire about the parties, and the appearances 
and references are all so favorable, that we would our 
selves employ them. We admit the advertisement, and 
all goes on well for one, two, or three years. Bye-and- 
bye a complaint comes of apparent wrong dealing. We 
make inquiries, and all is explained satisfactorily, appar¬ 
ently at least. Afterwards, another complaint comes, 
then another, and another. We call on the parties, and 
they tell a different story, and claim all to be fair. With¬ 
out devoting a week to the subject, calling witnesses, and 
holding “court,” we cannot decide whether the parties 
complained of are really dishonest, or the contrary. The 
shortest way Is, to do as we have lately done in two 
cases, with a commission house and a tree seller, viz., 
erolude them from our columns, until proved worthy 
