1865.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
108 
tree should stand a little above the general surface, 
to allow for settling. Put a mulch of some kind 
around the tree. If properly headed back, as ad¬ 
vised last month, no staking will be needed. 
Teach Trees. —These need a well-drained new soil. 
Probe for borers, and put on a paper or some other 
protection. Ashes is a good manure to apply 
•ver the roots of unhealthy trees. 
Seeds. —Those of fruit and nursery trees, includ¬ 
ing pits and nuts of all kinds, may be planted as 
soon as the ground is ready. 
Kitclien Carden.—As we write by the 
open window the air feels spring-like, and every¬ 
thing betokens an early season. When the ground 
can be worked, the preparatory operations of clear¬ 
ing up, plowing, and spading may be pushed. A 
good gardener, whether he works on the large or 
small scale, has his plans all laid beforehand, and 
has made up his mind what to plant and where to 
put it. Some hints ui)on the arrangement of 
farmers’ gardens will be found on page 118. 
Asparagus. —Remove the coarser portion of the 
manure, and fork in the rest. See last month’s 
calendar, and an article on page 117. 
Beans. —In those localities where there is no 
longer apy danger of frost, the early sorts may be 
planted. Start Limas on pieces of sods in hot¬ 
beds. Secure a stock of poles for running kinds. 
Beets. —Sow Early Turnip or Bassano, in drills, 
12 or 15 inches apart. Soak the seed in warm 
water for 24 hours, pour off the water, and keep 
covered in a warm place until the sprouts just 
show themselves ; roll the seed in plaster and sow. 
Broccoli. —This is grown by those who think 
they cannot raise cauliflower. Treat like cabbage. 
Brussels Sproxits. —A variety of the cabbage with 
small heads on the stalks, and grown like cabbage. 
Cabbages. —The plants started in hot-beds will 
need an occasional sifting of ashes to keep off in¬ 
sects. Thin them, and set the surplus plants in a 
cold frame. Plant out where the season will admit. 
Sow seed in open ground. See article on page 121, 
for early varieties. If we could have but one cab¬ 
bage, for early and late, it would be Winingstadt. 
Carrot. —Early Horn is the best early. Soak the 
seeds as directed for beets, and sow in 15 inch 
drills, in a mellow, deep, well-worked soil. 
Cauliflower. —Attend to plants in hot-bed as di¬ 
rected for cabbage. Sow Early Paris in open 
ground. Early Erfurt is said to be very early. 
Celery. —Plants in the hot-bed are often injured 
by the sun. Shade the glass during the heat of the 
day, and air. It may still be sown in a mild hot-bed 
or cold frame. Do not sow in open ground until it is 
well warmed. Early White Solid is best. Celeriac, 
or Turnip-rooted Celery, is sown in the same way. 
Cold Frames. —In many ijlaces at the North these 
will still be found useful. See page 83 (last month) 
for a cheap plan. They are very convenient as 
places in which to set plants from the hot-beds to 
gradually harden them off. Most plants are bene- 
fitted by this second transplanting. A frame which 
can be covered with boards at night is better than 
nothing. Give the plants free air during the day 
whenever the weather will allow. 
Cress, or Teppergrass. —Sow early and cover lightly. 
Cucumbers. —Start seeds on pieces of sods, or in 
small pots, as recommended on page 121. Early 
Russian is earliest; White Spined, largest and best. 
JEgg Plants. —These are provokingly slow in their 
early growth, and need a good deal of coaxing. 
When large enough to handle, put them in small 
pots, sir transplant to a gentle hot-bed. Sow seed 
in hot-bed, if not already done. 
Garlic. —Break up the bulb, and plant the sets six 
inches apart, in rows a foot apart. 
Hot-beds. —In the colder parts of the country, the 
present month is quite early enough to start the 
hot-bed. See calendar for previous months, and 
page 83 of last month. Those already in operation 
need care. Air should be admitted during the day, 
whenever the outside temperature will admit, by 
opening the sash a few inches, or removing it alto¬ 
gether, according to the activity of the heating 
materials, and the warmth of the sun. If neces¬ 
sary to keep the sash on, shade in the middle of 
the day. Weed, thin the plants, stir the soil among 
them as needed, and use water slightly warmed. 
Kohl liabi. —This is a variety of the cabbage, 
with a turnip-shaped, eatable stem, and it is sown 
and treated afterward precisely like cabbage. 
Leeks. —Sow in light, rich soil, in drills 15 inches 
apart or broadcast in a bed, for transplanting. 
Manure and Compost. —It is presumed that the 
needs of the garden have been anticipated, and that 
a heap of refuse of the g.arden last year, sods, 
ashes, manure, and fertilizing materials generally, 
has accumulated. The heap should be looked to, 
and if it has not sufficiently decomposed, build up 
a new heap, using the materials of the old one, 
with fresh stable manure, to start fermentation. 
Brewers’ hops, and sprouts from the malters, are 
valuable for the garden. Night soil should have 
been prepared before. Even now, it will pay to 
prepare it with a plenty of soil as heretofore 
directed. Provide a tank of some kind for liquid 
manure. Clean out hen roosts .and pigeon-house, 
barn-yard and pig stye, privy and sink drain; 
every deposit of fertilizing material should be used. 
Lettuce. —Transplant from hot-bed, and sow seed 
in open ground. 
Mustard. —Sow early for salad or greens. 
Melons. —A few for early ma}' be sown on sods, or 
in pots, as directed for cucumbers. 
Onions. —Potato Onions, Sets, and Top Onions 
are to be planted in rows, a foot apart, putting 
only one bulb in a place. Sow seed as early as the 
ground can be prepared, manuring highly with 
well decomposed manure, ashes, hen-manure, or 
any strong fertilizer. Burn brush over the bed to 
destroy weed seeds, and sow in drills, 15 inches 
apart. Onions from seed do not usually do well 
much South of the latitude of New-York City. 
Parsley. —The seed is some weeks in germinating. 
Soaking for 12 hours will help It along. 
Pars7iips. —Sow last year’s seed as early as may 
be, in deep, rich soil. 
Peas. —Sow every tw'O weeks for a succession, 
first soaking the seed in tepid water. Daniel 
O’Rourke is one of the standard early sorts, and 
several new ones have appeared this year, with 
great claims. The Dwarfs are handy. Provide 
brush in readiness for the tall growing sorts. 
Peppers. —Sow in hot-bed or cold frame. 
Potatoes. —The early sorts should be put in the 
ground as soon as the frost is -well out of it. 
Potting and Pricking Out. —It is a good practice 
to transplant tomatoes, egg plants, cauliflowers, 
etc., from the hot-bed to small pots. These are 
set in a gentle hot-bed, and when their roots fill 
the earth, shift them to larger-sized pots, and set 
in a cold frame. By the time they can be put out 
with safety, they will be stocky plants, and ready 
to turn out without disturbing their roots. Similar 
advantages may be obtained by preparing a cold 
frame over a rich spot, and setting, or “ pricking 
out” the plants into it, at 4 inches apart. Both 
these methods give better results than transferring 
plants directly from the hot-bed to the open ground. 
Radishes. —Sow in any spare places in the hot¬ 
beds, and in light quick soil in the open ground. 
A sandy soil, if rich, is best. Sow at intervals of a 
week or ten days for succession. 
Rhubarb. —Treat as directed last month. 
Salsify. —Sow in the same manner as parsnips. 
Spinach. —Sow the Round-leaved. Stir the soil 
among the plants which were wintered over. 
Sweet Corn. —Seed for a few hills of Extra Early 
may be placed in hot-beds on sods. See Cucumbers. 
Seeds. —Follow the hints on raising given on p. 117. 
Swiss Chard. —Sow like beets. The leaf of this 
variety of beet furnishes most excellent greens. 
Sweet Potatoes. —When small quantities are grown, 
it will be cheaper to buy the sets of those who 
raise them for sale. The plants are started this 
month in hot-beds. Cut the potatoes through 
■ lengthwise, and lay them, cut side down, on the bed, 
and cover them with rich soil to the depth of two 
inches, when the shoots have pushed above this 
another inch is added. The plants are to have the 
usual treatment of those in hot-beds, being water¬ 
ed, aired and covered as needed. The sprouts, 
when welt rooted, are sliiiped off and the younger 
ones allowed to remain until the}’are tit to remove. 
Tomatoes.—Tot or prick out the plants when they 
have made three rough leaves. Sow seed undei 
glass, or in pots or boxes in a sunny window in the 
house. Give the young plants plenty of light and aii-. 
Tools .—Much of the comfort of working in the 
garden depends upon good tools. A spading-fork 
is better than a spade for preparing soil. Thi.s ami 
a bayonet-hoe are indispensable. If the garden is ol 
considerable extent it will pay to get a seed-drill of 
some kind. We have found the Wethersfield seed- 
sower to give complete satisfaction. 
Turnips.—^ovi the Dutch or some early sorts as 
soon as the frost is out, in foot-drills. The Teltow 
is a very small early sort with a high flavor, and is 
prized by Germans. It is excellent to put intosoujis. 
Flower Garden and Fawn. 
Have the preparatory woidc done up as soon as 
possible. For new lawns, prepare the ground and 
seed early according to hints on page 122. Fork 
over and manure the borders as soon as the ground 
will do to work. Many hints in the March Calen¬ 
dar are timely for this month. 
Annuals .—Do not sow the seed of tender sorts 
in the open border until the soil is warm. Start 
seed in hot-bed, cold frame or green-house. The 
hardier kinds, such as Gilias, Whitlavia, and the 
California annuals generally, may be sown early. 
Bulbs .—Uncover those which were protected by 
manure. Stake the tall-growing Hyacinth and 
Crown Imperials if needed to prevent falling over. 
Climbers .— A free introduction of these adds much 
to the beauty of a place, and they can frequently 
be made useful in shutting out undesirable 
views. See notes given in last month’s paper. 
Edgings .—Old Box edging needs to be taken up 
and reset every few years. This will not endnre 
very severe winters, and then grass. Dwarf Flag, 
or some other substitute must be used. 
Fames and Pits .—The plants in these must be 
gradually prepared for removal to the borders by 
removing the sashes and giving air every warm day. 
Gravel Beds .—Make new and repair old ones. 
Coal ashes are excellent upon gravel that will not 
pack, and where gravel cannot be had, coal ashes 
make a good walk by themselves. Do not forget 
the notice of coal tar and sand given last year. 
Lawns .—Root out all large weeds and give a top¬ 
dressing of compost, bone dust, or ashes. Trimall 
the margins along paths or beds neatly. If there are 
any depressions or unsightly elevations, pare off 
the turf and fill in or remove earth as the case may 
be, and replace the sod. Sprinkle seed on thin 
places, and to make smooth work, roll thoroughly. 
Perennials a?id Biennials .—Sow seeds in an outol 
sight bed for a stock for next }’ear. Take np old 
roots and divide; transplant last year’s seedlings. 
.Roses.—Prune the strong branches of perpetuals 
to three or four buds. Thin out the weaker 
branches. Cut old superfluous wood from climbers. 
Shi'ubs .—See last mouth’s Calendar. 
Trees .—Plant deciduous sorts upon the lawn and 
along the roadside, exercising the same care in 
setting as is indicated elsewhere for fruit trees. 
Green anci IIot>IIoiises.— The firea 
in the hot-house may be much diminished, and in 
the green house may be discontinued altogether, 
unless a cold snap comes on. Ventilate freely 
every pleasant day to harden the plants. 
Bedding Plants .—A good stock of these should be 
coming forward. Pot off the rooted cuttings, and 
when they become established, gradually harden 
them by exposure in a eold fi-ame. 
Bulbs .—Turn those which have finished bloom¬ 
ing in the house into the open border. 
Camellias .—These are mostly through flowering. 
Prune into shape; they bear cutting freely ; syringe 
and keep the foliage clean. Cuttings may be made. 
Fuchsias —Cuttings of the new growth will make 
good plants for summer blooming. The old plants 
will need water as they are now growing rapidly. 
Insects .—Keep them in cheek by free use of the sy« 
ringe and occasional resort to tobacco fumigatiuiu. 
