171 
1865.] AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
T'Feerfs.—Nothing looks worse than neglected 
nursery rows. Use the plow and cultivator so 
rigged that no injury can be done to the stock by 
the horse or whiffletrees. 
KitcliCBi Garden.—Everything, weeds 
included, is now growing as if for the fun of the 
tiling. The very early start, in this neighborhood 
about two weeks, rather disarranges our calcula¬ 
tions in preparing the calendar, and could we 
have known that the season would have got so far 
ahead of time, our May directions would have been 
rather more in accordance with it. ' Even in this 
forward season, it is not too late to sow, okra, 
melons, and those things which grow all the better 
if they have a warm soil from the start. An article 
on sowing for succession, on page 187, may afford 
some useful hints. 
• Asparagus. —The cutting ought not to be con¬ 
tinued much after the first of June, the present year. 
It is a mistake to exhaust the roots by excessive 
cropping. Keep the bed free of weeds until the 
tops shade it. 
■ Beans. —Sow for a succession for stringing and 
shelling. The main crop for dry beans may be put. 
in. Limas may still be planted. 
Cabbages, CauUJloioer, and Broccoli. —Set out as 
directed on page 186. Forward the growing crop 
by frequent hoeing and liquid manure. Destroy 
caterpillars when young. 
Carrots may still be sown. Hoe between the 
rows as soon as the plants can be seen, and when 
sufBciently large, thin to from 3 to 6 inches in the 
row. See article on page 179. 
Cilery. —The earliest crop may be set in trenches 
2 feet deep and one foot wide, with the soil at the 
bottom well enriched. Water in dry weather. 
Corn. —Plant every two weeks for a succession. 
Capsicums, or Peppers. —Set in a warm, rich spot. 
Cucumbers. —Plant the main crop for pickles the 
middle or last of the month, putting in plenty of 
seed to guard against loss from insects. Surround 
the young plants by frames, as recommended last 
month, page 155. Hoe until the vines are too large. 
Egg Plants. —These need the best of soil and cul¬ 
ture, in cold climates, to forward them so th.at the 
fruit will perfect in season. Hoe the earth to¬ 
wards the plant. Set at least two feet apart. 
Endive. —Sow in the same manner as lettuce, and 
thin or set out the pl.ants so that they will be a 
foot apart each way. 
Zeffifce.—Transplant to good soil, and sow seed 
frequently in a cool pl.ace to keep up a succession. 
Melons. —Treat as directed above for cucumbers. 
Onions. —Thin to 3 or 4 inches, and keep all weeds 
from the bed. Watering with hot water and 
with gas liquor, as well as heavy mulching with 
sawdust, and sprinkling with salt and ashes, have 
each been claimed as a “ sure cure ” for the mag¬ 
got. If the potato, or other e.arly sorts, show a 
wilting of their leaves, it is an indication that they 
are ready to pull. 
Parsnips. —As soon as the plants are large enough 
to see the rows, the soil should be stirred, and 
when large enough to handle, weeded and thinned. 
Peas. —Sow for the late crop in deeply worked 
soil. Set brush before the vines fall over. Save 
tlie earliest and best of the early sorts for seed. 
Potatoes. —Hoe and give a dressing of plaster. 
Radishes. —Sow at intervals for succession. 
Keep the beds clean, and cut off the 
flower stalks as soon as they show themselves. 
Dry or preserve a supply for winter. 
Ruta-Baga.—Soyr in well manured ground, the 
latter part of June. Bone dust is good for them. 
Salsify. —Treat the same as carrots. 
Spinach. —Sow for succession. The New-Zealand 
is best for summer-use. 
Squashes. —Plant in manured soil, as last month. 
Sweet Potatoes. —^Prepare the ground and set the 
plants according to the methods given last month 
on pages 144 and 154. 
Tomatoes. —Transplant and pinch in the rampant 
br.anches. See method of training described last 
month on page 154. 
Watering. —Do not water unless the plants are 
suffering, except it can be continued until rain 
comes. The proper use of the hoe will help plants 
through a drouth in a wonderful manner. In 
watering with liqnid manure, have it weak enough 
and apply frequently. 
Weeds. —These are blessings if hoed up, but they 
punish the lazy and careless by condemning them 
to eat poorly grown vegetables. Hoe if the ground 
is weedy; hoe if the soil bakes after a shower, and 
if neither of these re.asons present themselves— 
hoe for the sake of the hoeing. 
Flower Garden and Fawn.— Vege¬ 
tation in this as in all other departments is advan¬ 
ced beyond ordinary seasons, and the work must be 
pushed accordingly. Grass has grown at a pro¬ 
digious rate, and the cutting should be more fre¬ 
quent, in order to secure a close and velvety turf. 
Annuals. —Sow the tender ones and transplant 
those large enough. The bloom of many kinds 
may be much prolonged by cutting off the flowers 
as soon as they have passed their prime, and allow¬ 
ing no seed to be produced. 
Bulbs. —Continue the foliage of the spring bloom¬ 
ing kinds in a growing state as long as possible by 
good cultivation, and when it withers take up the 
bulbs, dry them and put them away in papers in a 
dry place, free from mice, until fall planting. 
Carnations. —Propagate by layers, as noted on 
page 187, and by cuttings. Keep flowering plants 
well tied up. Sow seeds. 
Climbers. —See that those which do not cling of 
themselves, are properly tied, to prevent being 
thrown down by winds, but avoid all stiffness in 
training them. Sow seeds of annual ones. Bec.are- 
ful to have the supports of all climbers strong 
enough for the weight of foliage, and to resist winds. 
Dahlias. —Plant in rich soil. It is not well for 
them to flower early, as they should be kept grow¬ 
ing all summer, in order to secure a fine show of 
flowers in fall. Water in dry weather. 
Geraniums .— Set out .and keep them in good shape 
by cutting. 
Gladiolus. —These are often thrown down by the 
weight of the flower cluster. Stake the tall growers. 
Grass, whether upon the lawn or in edging, 
needs frequent elipping, and all margins neat trim¬ 
ming. Root out all coarse weeds. 
Ch'avel. —Hoe, rake and roll when weeds appear. 
Ebe and Rake. —Use these implements, not only 
to kill weeds, but to loosen the soil, .and thus 
obviate the necessity for mueli w.atering. If the 
soil is disposed to b.ake on the surface after a rain, 
loosen it up with the rake. 
Layering. —This may be done on shrubs and 
herbaceous plants at any time, when there are suit¬ 
able shoots. The layer should be put in good rich 
soil. See remarks on page 187. 
Potted Plants. —These need shelter from the winds 
and burning sun, as noted on page 186. Pots not 
plunged must have regular waterings, or the roots 
will get dry .and the plants suffer. 
Phloxes. —Multiply the finer herbaceous sorts by 
making cuttings of the stems before flowering. 
ifoses.—Shorten stems of perpetuals after flower¬ 
ing several inches, and new shoots will start for 
late bearing. Kill insects as heretofore directed. 
Transplanting. —In dry weather it is necessary to 
fill the holes with water before setting the plants, 
and to shade for a few days, but uncover at night. 
Green and Hot-Houses.— Everything 
that is to be put out of doors, will probably bo out 
by this time. The house should be put in complete 
order and the plants that are left inside receive the 
best attention. 
Azaleas. —The new growth should be forwarded 
by syringing and very weak liquid manure. Shape 
the plants by pinching, and shade from hot sun. 
Camellias.— to a partial shade. See p.age 
186. Syringe frequently. Lookout for and destroy 
mealy bug. Inarch when the wood hardens. 
Cidtings. —Provide for a stock of geraniums and 
such things by making cuttings. 
Chinese Primroses.—Sow seeds, divide roots, and 
put established plants in a shady frame. 
Potting .— When slmibs make a sickly growth, re¬ 
move the plant from the pot and wash all the earth 
from the roots, and repot with fresh soil. Secure 
a good stock of sods and stack them up to decom¬ 
pose for potting soil. 
Seedlings-. —Pot off any that are large enough. 
Water. —Keep the air of the house properly moist 
by using the syringe. Small pots dry out quickly. 
Fruit Gar€leii.-“Prom present prospects 
there will be an abundance of fruit of most kinds, 
to repay the Labor of the cultivator. 
Currants.—By removing superfluous growth as 
it starts, much pruning will be s.aved. Take off 
useless suckers. If, as is often the case, green fruit 
will bring more than ripe, it is best to market it 
early. See article on the currant worm on page 
187. Keep the soil around the bushes well hoed. 
Uoo.teftejTies.—These do better where they are 
partially shaded. A free application of sulphur, or 
water as hot as the hand can bear, to which wood 
ashes have been added, in the proportion of a quart 
to a pailful, may be tried, if mildew appears. 
Gi-apes.—U vines set this year show fruit, remove 
it, however reluctant you may be to do so. All the 
energies of the vine are needed to form wood and 
roots for next year. Seedlings, young vines from 
cuttings, and layers are to be kept tied up, and the 
growth of the laterals kept pinched back to one 
leaf. Vines fruiting for the first time, ought not 
to be allowed to overbear. One bunch to the shoot 
is better than more. Fill up the trench over lay¬ 
ers, made as directed last month. Insects will need 
killing, and use sulphur freely upon all vines 
where mildew appears. A bellows is made for the 
purpose, like a common kitchen bellows, with a 
hole for the introduction of the sulphur, and with¬ 
out a valve. The nozzle is of tin, and quite wide, 
and the end is curved to facilitate the application 
to the under side of the leaves. By me.ans of this 
implement, and any one can contrive to make a 
substitute, a properly trained vine can be com¬ 
pletely dusted in a very short time. 
Pears. —The shaping of the tree, as well as its 
preparation for future fruitfulness, is secured by 
proper summer pinching. Sufficient directions 
were given in January, on page 17. The slug 
usually appears this month. A dusting of dry air- 
slaked lime will kill them, or the powdered white 
hellebore may be tried. 
Strawberries. —Plantations set this spring should 
be kept cle.an of weeds. The treatment will depend 
upon whether fruit or an increase in the number of 
plants is most desired. If the greatest amount 
of fruit be the object, the runners should not be 
allowed to grow, but if more plants are required, 
give the runners good soil to strike in. If the 
mulch is not already on, put on straw, tan, corn 
stalks, or other material, to keep the fruit clean. 
Have all boxes, crates, etc., plainly marked, and in 
filling the boxes, do not put all the best berries on 
top. Those who are near enough to do so, should 
exhibit at our Strawberry Show. 
Cold Grapery. —Open the house early 
in the morning, shut up early, and endeavor to 
keep the temperature at about SS'* or 90® at mid¬ 
day, allowing the change from the night tempera¬ 
ture to this to be very gradu.al. Avoid sudden 
changes. While the vines are in flower, the syring¬ 
ing overhead should be discontinued. The distribu¬ 
tion of the pollen is aided, and more thorough 
fertilization secured by giving the bunches a shake 
every morning by means of the finger. After the 
berries are set, give a good syringing to remove the 
remains of the flowers. Water freely. The number 
of bunches to be left upon the vine will depend 
