1865.J 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
903 
which were in fine condition. The trees were cut 
back very severely, almost to straight poles. 
Weeds.—The plow, hoe and cultivator must be 
kept constantly bright by use, if one would keep 
the better of weeds. These are quite .as injurious 
to young trees .as to other plants. 
Kitclicn Oarden.—Those’ w^ho have 
small gardens do not generally make the most of 
them, for the reason that they do not practise a 
system of rotation. The ground occupied by early 
potatoes may be used the same season for eabba- 
ges, beans, lettuce, peas, or celery; peas may be 
followed by any of the above except be.ans, or late 
spinach, or turnips m.ay be sown. The list of 
things which may be sown late, given last month 
on page 187, will be useful .as a reminder, and in 
sowing in rotation do not let closely-related plants 
follow one another; thus c.abbages should not fol¬ 
low turnips, nor beans be sown directly after a 
crop of peas has been taken from the same ground. 
Asparagus. —Keep the weeds from the beds and 
give a dressing of manure. Cut off all the tops 
which have the iarvs of the beetle, and burn them. 
ifeans.—Plant for late crop and forward the Li¬ 
mas by liquid manure and good culture. Help 
them if they are not disposed to wind of them¬ 
selves. In saving seed, select the most prolific 
plants and allow none to be picked from them. 
Beets may still be sown for a late crop. Thin 
those up as soon as large enough. The young 
plants are exeellent greens. 
Cabbages and CauHflowers.—The early sorts will 
soon be out of the way, and the land may be pre¬ 
pared for celery or other succession crop. Trans¬ 
plant the late crop, observing the hints given last 
month on page 186. Give liquid manure when 
they are well established, and hoe often, especially 
in dry weather. The caterpillar is often very de¬ 
structive. When the brood are first hatehed they 
remain near together, and may be removed by 
breaking off a single leaf, but when larger they scat- 
ter in search of food and must be killed in detail. 
Ceknj.—The admirable article of Mr. Henderson, 
on page 218, gives suflficient directions for growing. 
CajTofs.—Sow some for late, if young carrots be 
desired. Thin others and keep the ground hoed 
until the tops meet. 
Corn. —Plant for late use and for drying. 
Cucumbers. —Hoe as long as the vines will allow; 
water if they suffer from drouth. Those for pickles 
may still be sown. Select the finest for seed. 
Egg Plants.—'R oq and earth up, and feed them 
with liquid manure, and mulch them. 
Endive. —Sow for late crop the same as lettuce. 
Herbs.—Cut as they are ready to flower, dry in the 
shade and put up in p-iper bags or tight boxes. 
Hoe and Bake. —^The free use of these is wonder¬ 
fully persuading to all vegetables. Use them after 
a rain to break the crust that forms, and use them 
before a rain, and at all times when the soil is not 
too wet. A thorough stirring of the soil in a dry 
time is better than watering. 
Lettuce. —Save seeds from the finest heads. Sow 
the Silesian in partial shade. 
Manure. —Give the roots plenty of food in the 
liquid form. House slops arc good. Liquid ma¬ 
nure from hen droppings—a peek to a barrel of 
water—is better. Cow manure tea is good also. 
Melons. —Treat the same as cucumbers. Remove 
all the fruit that will not ripen before frost. 
Onions. —^Thin if they are crowded. Pull those 
that are ripening,and dry thoroughly before storing. 
Peas. —Save seed. Plant some of the early varie¬ 
ties for late. Clear off the ground occupied by the 
early ones and prepare it for some other crop. 
Bhubarb. —Keep the flower stalks down and give 
the plants rest and manure. 
Seeds. —^There is no difficulty in saving good seed 
if one will only take sufficient care. It is often the 
case that all the first fruit of a plant is taken for 
use and seed saved from that which is produced 
later, and it is no wonder that sorts tre.ated in this 
way “ run out.” To get seed that will continue to 
produce not only the same, but improved results, 
set apart a sufficient number of plants of cucum¬ 
bers, tomatoes, peas, beans, corn, etc., for seed 
only, and allow nothing to be t-aken from them for 
use. When the frnit is set, take off all but a mod¬ 
erate crop of select specimens, and allow those to 
ripen for seed. When one plant of a variety is 
seen to be a few d.ays earlier than the rest, mark it 
for seed. By a careful selection of seed, the quality 
of our garden products can be greatly improved. 
Sweet Potatoes .—Keep the ground clean and move 
the vines to prevent them from striking root. 
Squashes .—The squash bugs should be looked for 
and caught before they lay their eggs, and any 
eggs that are found on the under side of the leaves 
crushed. The only remedy yet known for the squash 
borer is to dig him out. If the vine wilts, look for 
the hole made by the borer. If this is near the 
root he m.ay sometimes be dug out and the vine 
saved, but usu.ally the discovery is made too late. 
Hoe the vines and allow them to strike root. 
Tomatoes .—Last month we gave an account of a 
method of training. Other modes may be adopted 
or the vines be allowed to fall over upon brush 
placed for the purpose. Pinch in the branches so 
that one leaf will remain above the bunch of 
blossoms. If the vines are eaten, search for and 
kill the large green worm that does the mischief. 
Turnips .—Sow the Swedes or Rutabagas, and 
White French, and other late kinds. 
Weeds .—A good crop of these may be raised with 
but iittle trouble, but if other things are preferred, 
use some of the weeding implements described 
and figured in this and previous numbers. 
Fruit darden. — Every one growing 
frnit should aim to have the best of its kind, and 
now that the different ones are ripening in succes¬ 
sion, he should compare his own varieties with 
those grown by others, to see what room there is 
for improvement. The local horticultural exhibi¬ 
tions and farmers’ clubs, are very instructive to 
this end; and where these are not held, one should 
visit his neighbors to compare notes. 
Blackberries .—Keep the ground free of weeds by 
hoeing, or a heavy mulch, which is better, as it is 
difficult to work among the bushes. Tie up the 
brjinehes that bend over with their load of fruit. 
Currants .—If the worm makes its appe.aranee, 
give a dusting of white hellebore, as advised last 
month. The borer, which e.ats the pith, is often 
very troublesome. It comes from an egg laid by a 
small moth near a bud. Some plan for trapping 
the moths is greatly needed. Much pruning may 
be saved by removing needless shoots when they 
first push. Shading a portion of the bushes will 
retard the ripening and prolong the season. 
Dwarf Pkuit Trees .—Thin the fruit freely if at all 
disposed to overbear. If the trees are to be kept 
dwarf, summer pinch them as directed in article on 
pyramids, published in January last. Give manure 
and mulch. Treat the red spiders to frequent 
syringings of soap suds, and if the slug appears 
dust with air-slaked lime. 
Grape Vines .—Keep all vines, young or old, tied 
to the trellis or stakes. Pinch the laterals to one 
leaf and when a new growth starts from the pinch¬ 
ed lateral, pinch that again to one leaf, and keep 
doing this. Stop the growth of fruiting canes by 
pinching them at 3 or 4 leaves beyond the upper¬ 
most bunch of fruit. Do not allow any vines, 
young ones, especially, to overbear. See article on 
mildew on page 217, and use sulphur as there di¬ 
rected. Thrips are very troublesome in some pla¬ 
ces ; it is said that sulphur will keep them away. 
Baspberries .—As soon as the fruit is off, cut 
away the old canes and remove all of the new ones 
not needed for next years’ bearing. 
Strawberries .—After the picking is over, fork a 
good compost in around them. Keep the runners 
pinched off unless new plants are needed. 
Flower Gardesi ;in<l L>awii. —Now 
that the novelty is over, the amateur should not 
abate his zeal, and allow the borders to fall info 
partial neglect. There is abundance of work for 
those who would keep their grounds in complete 
order, in suppressing weeds, removing stalks from 
plants out of flower, training r.ampant growers, 
pegging down bedding plants, transplanting an¬ 
nuals for l.ate bloom, etc. The surface of the soil 
should be kept loose, and when it bakes after a 
rain, it needs to be raked or hoed over. 
Bulbs .—Those which have finished their growth, 
which may be known by the wilting of the leaves, 
may be taken up, and put in papers, as directed 
last mouth, or in boxes or flower pots of dry sand. 
CnrnnfiojM.—Propagate as directed last month, 
and keep those in flower neatly tied up. 
Dahlias .—Set out a stake, and then set out the 
root. Train to a single stem, or allow three of the 
lower branches to push, which will form a large, 
bushy plant; these side branches will also need 
stakes. Keep them growing and safely tied up 
Eve)-greens.—?T\me single trees or hedges, if not 
already done, and remove the grass from immedi¬ 
ately over their roots. 
Geraniums .—If the plants are long-legged and 
straggling, cut them back severely, so as to form 
compact and well shaped specimens; they will soon 
push out more shoots and flower finely. 
Gladiolus .—Tie the flower stalks to stakes. 
Grass .—Mow as often as long enough, and in hot 
we.ather, if the grass is iight, do not rake it off, but 
le.ave it as a mulch. Pull up coarse weeds, and 
keep all the margins closely trimmed. 
Potted Plants .—See that all have sufficient shade, 
and do not suffer from dryness. If the pots are to 
be plunged, put a little coal ashes at the bottom of 
the hole, to keep the worms out of the pots. 
Propagation .—The stock of shrubs may be in¬ 
creased by layering, and many herbaceous plants, 
such as phloxes, by cuttings, taken before flowering. 
Pnining may be done to ornament.al trees, .as di¬ 
rected for fruit trees under Orchard and Nursery. 
Bhododendrons. —Mulch, and carefully remove the 
forming pods, unless seeds are desired. 
Boses .—Cut back the perpetuals freely, to secure 
a late bloom. Layer the new growth of those, it is 
wished to propagate. Rose bugs must be caught 
and killed, and the slug cured by the use of whale- 
oil soap. Keep the new growth of the climbing 
sorts well tied up to the trellis. 
Seeds .—Collect from the best specimens only, 
which should have been marked when in flower, 
just before the pods burst. 
Verbenas .—Keep well pegged down. A corre¬ 
spondent of the Gardener’s Monthly says: Take 
a bit of bast m.atting, or similar material, 3 or 4 
inches long, pass it around the stem, until both 
ends meet, and then with a stick press the two ends 
into the soil, and it will hold the plant in place. 
Watering .—This should only be done when the 
plants show signs of suffering. Remove the surface 
earth around the plant, give water copiously, .and 
when it has soaked aw.ay, replace the earth. 
Grccii and Mot-Mouses.— The tropi¬ 
cal plants which remain in the house, after the 
others are removed, should be secured from burn¬ 
ing by the mid-summer sun, by whitewashing the 
glass, or the use of a muslin screen. The atmos¬ 
phere must be kept moist by sprinkling, and the 
earth in the pots properly watered. All rubbish is 
to be removed, and everything kept neat. 
Budding .—Shrnbs which are propagated in this 
way, are worked whenever the bark will lift, and 
well formed buds are to be had. 
Insects .—Continue to destroy by the methods 
heretofore noticed in the Calendar. 
Potting .—Collect sods, and stack up to decom¬ 
pose for potting compost. Potrooted cuttings and 
seedlings. If large pl.ants are in a sickly condition, 
wash the earth from the roots, remove diseased 
roots, head back the top, and re-pot in fresh carthi 
