Q76 
AMERICAN AG-RICULTURIST. 
[September, 
three strands, and each strand of two or more 
strands, or rope-yarns. Figure 1 sliows how 
two pieces of such a rope are united by what is 
Fijr. 1. SHORT SPLICE. 
Fig. 2. SPLICED EYE. 
termed the “Short Splice.” Tlie strands of 
each end are first untwisted and placed together, 
each strand being placed between two strands 
of tlie other rope. Each strand in succession 
(first of one rope and then of the other) is tlien 
passed over the one it lies in contact with on 
the left, and is tucked under the next strand. 
To accomplish this tucking easily, the rope is 
untwisted a little and a sharp 
w'ooden, or iron pin (a mar¬ 
line pin) is inserted, and a 
place made through which 
the end of the strand may 
be passed. The course ot 
strands may easily be traced 
by referring to the number¬ 
ing of the dark strands in 
fig. 1. When all the ends 
are thus tucked once, we 
have already a perfectly 
strong splice, w’hich W'ill 
bear any strain the rope will, 
but the ends must be left on, 
for if the rope is subject to 
an untwisting operation it 
might part. If a handsomer 
finish is desirable, the ends 
of the strands may be open¬ 
ed, and one of the two yarns 
of Avhich each is composed 
may be tucked again. After 
this both yarns may be cut 
off. This splice is twice as 
large as the original rope, 
but not nearly so large as tlie 
knots commonly tied in 
ropes, and it will go through 
n 
Fig. 3.— THIMBLE. 
Fig. 4. LONG SPLICE. 
most pulleys in which the rope runs loosely. 
The Eye Splice. —An eye in the end of a 
rope (fig. 2 ) is ofien very useful, especially when 
it is to receive a hook, or to be subjected to 
wear in any way. In such cases the rope is 
bent round a thimble (fig. 3), which is firmly 
enclosed in the eye. This eye is made veiy 
much like a short splice, only each strand is 
tucked twice. The numbers 1, 2, 3, will be a 
sufficient guide.' 
The Long Splice. —When it is necessary to 
splice a rope, which runs snugly through a 
block, or a hole, or over a beam, where it is un¬ 
desirable to have any catching or irregularity, the 
long splice must be employed. This is shown 
in fig. 4, and when neatly done, the place of 
joining will hardly be noticed. The rope-ends 
are opened as for the short splice, but for a long¬ 
er distance, and are placed together in the same 
way. Then one strand of one end is untwisted 
still further, and the strand of the opposite end, 
which matches the untwisted one, is laid in to 
follow it, and is thus carried as far as three 
twists, or three times around the rope. Kext, 
one of the strands of the other end is run back, 
and another laid in in the same way, so that 
when this is done, the six strands will lie match¬ 
ing one another in pairs, at A, B and (7, fig. 3, 
in the way shown at A. Then tie each pair 
in simple knots, following the twist of the rope, 
as shown at G. Finally tuck the ends, as shown 
at5, pull all tight and smooth, and cut them off. 
These splices are good things for the boys to 
exercise their ingenuity upon for the coming 
month, and by-and-by we will give the figures 
of some useful knots and “hitches” for them 
to try their hands upon. Twenty-five cents 
worth of tarred 3-straud rope, scarcely as large 
as ones little finger, will be all the expense, and 
the lesson learned will be a very useful one. 
Building Round Stacks. 
In building a stack of any kind, there are two 
points of great importance to be observed. The 
first is to carry up a stack true, and the next is 
to place the sheaves or material in the best posi¬ 
tion to carry off the rain. A good foundation 
is always necessary to keep the bottom dQi. 
This can be made of poles, rails, or plank. It 
is alwa 3 ^s a good practice to make a round 
stack about a pole set firmly in the ground. 
This will keep it erect when it is settling. 
When making a round stack, where there is no 
pole in the middle, it wdll alwa 3 "s be found ad¬ 
vantageous to stick a fork at the middle, keep¬ 
ing it there, as the stack is carried up. Then, a 
stacker can always judge whether he is build¬ 
ing the sides uniformly or not. 
The illustration herewith given, represents 
the best way of making a round stack. A bulge 
is essential to carry the rain as far from bottom 
as possible, In order to make the first course 
true, stick a fork at the middle, and tie a string 
to it; and holding the other end in one hand, 
walk around the outer edge, and adjust the out¬ 
side course of forkfuls, until the circle is com¬ 
plete. Keep the middle a little the fullest, until 
the bulge is formed, when the middle must be 
raised from one to two feet higher than the 
edge. The width of the stack will determine 
the hight of the middle above the edge. When 
stacking hay, straw, or loose grain, lay a course 
of forkfuls of uniform size around the edge, 
and then bind this course with another row of 
forkfuls lapping on the first. Proceed in this 
manner until the stack is finished. 
When sheaves are put in a stack, set up a 
large bundle in the centre, and continue to stand 
others around it, leaning them inward until a 
bottom is formed large enough for the stack. 
Wow, commence again in the middle, and lay 
a circular course; tlien another and another 
course, until the outside course is laid. Great 
care must be exercised to see that buts of the 
sheaves on the outside are sufficiently slanting 
to carry all the rain—not a part 01113 ^—readily 
outivard. If the sheaves lie nearly flat, the 
straw on the upper side will carry the rain to¬ 
ward the middle of the stack. The outside 
course of sheaves should be placed as close to¬ 
gether as they can be, to prevent large holes in 
the outside, where rain will find its way into 
the sheaves beneath. To prevent the sheaves 
slipping outward, elevate the top end of every 
bundle when placing it, and thrust the buts on 
the underside into the course below it. When 
they are simply laid down without this securit 3 '-, 
the courses are very liable to slide off. This is 
one of the manipulations in stacking that but 
comparatively few understand. We have seen 
half a wagon load of sheaves slide at once from 
the side of a stack built by a man who w’as 
ignorant of this part of stacking. As the straw 
of barley and corn stalks are very slippeiy, it is 
difficult to keep the courses from sliding, unless 
the buts of every sheaf are secured in this way. 
To TOP OFF. —If the stack is being built of 
sheaves, the middle must be kept so full that 
there will be a good inclination of the straw in 
the buts of the bundles. This is always a much 
better guide than to attempt to keep the middle 
of the stack at a certain hight above the outside. 
The stacker should move on his knees, over the 
course of sheaves he is laying; and, in order to 
keep them as close together as the 3 ’- can be con¬ 
veniently, he should lay each sheaf partly on 
the side of the one last laid; and as it is pressed 
down with the knees, hold it from slipping with 
both hands. By this means a much larger 
number of bundles may be secured in a smaller 
compass than otherwise. If the straws only 
have a suitable inclination to carry the water 
outw’ard instead of toward the middle of the 
stack, rain will injure but a small portion of 
either straw or grain. If one side of a stack 
A STACK BRACED TO PREVENT LEANING. 
should be lower than the other, it may usually 
be carried up even, by using the large sheaves 
for the lower, and the small ones for the higher 
side. Tliis onesideduess should be guarded 
against before the stack has become onesided. 
The straightest and handsomest bundles should 
be placed in the outside course, for the purpose 
of keeping the stack of the correct shape, as 
well as carrying off the rain better than tangled 
bundles, wlijch should form the inside courses, 
whenever there is any difference in the sheaves. 
If it is necessary to have a man or boy stand on 
the stack to pitch the sheaves to the stacker, 
he should always remain as near tlie middle as 
practicable, and^it travel about so as to dis¬ 
place the sheaves, after the stacker has left 
them. Keep the middle full, the form circular, 
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