1865.] 
AMERICAN AG-RIOULTURIST, 
Q99 
keeping the early frosts from some of the most 
fruitful plants, by means of some kind of covering. 
Preserve a supply for winter in jars or bottles. 
Trenchmg .—^There are usually many days this 
month in which the ground can be profitably pre¬ 
pared for spring, by manuring and trenching. 
Winter Cherries .—Gather as directed last month. 
Fruit eSarden.—All hardy shrubs and 
trees may be planted as soon as the wood is ma¬ 
ture, and the leaves begin to fall. The earlier this 
is done, the better, in order that the plants may 
get somewhat established before winter. 
Blackberries. —All the varieties fruit much better 
if the canes are laid down and covered with a lit¬ 
tle earth. In making a new planting, give plenty 
of room ; six feet apart each way, or in rows 8 feet 
apart, with the plants 4 feet distant. The soil 
should be well enriched with good compost, and 
have a plenty of leaf mould'or muck worked in. 
Currants and Gooseberries. —Make cuttings as di¬ 
rected last month on page 282, where will also be 
found a description of the best varieties of euiTants. 
Transplant rooted cuttings or get plants from the 
nursery, setting them 5 feet apart each way. 
Dwarf Fruits. —Plant dwarf apples and pears in 
autumn, but leave the stone fruits until spring. 
Grapes. —Plant vines when the leaves have follen. 
Pick as they ripen ; those intended for wine-making 
or for keeping, need to be thoroughly ripe. Put in 
boxes as described last month, and keep in a uni¬ 
formly cool place, where they will not freeze. 
ikars.—Allow the winter sorts to hang until frost, 
and treat as directed for apples under Orchard. 
Strawberries. —New beds may still be made, but 
the earlier the better. Sufficient directions for 
planting are given last month on page 284. The 
covering should not be done until late, when the 
ground is about to freeze, but it is well to accumu¬ 
late a supply of covering material. Leaves or 
straw are generally used. At the West, they 
use cornstalks, laid lengthwise of the rows with 
good success. An inch of covering is sufficient. 
Flower Garden and l^awii.—The 
glorious days of October are far more suitable for 
making improvements in the grounds, or laying 
out new ones, than the wet and uncertain weath¬ 
er of spring. Leveling, road-making, preparing 
lawns, and trenching borders can be advantageously 
done at this time. Such work, together with plant¬ 
ing and taking care of tender plants, will give the 
gardener full occupation. 
Annuals. —The hardy kinds, such as Whitlavia, 
Ah’ssum, Gilias, Larkspurs, Nemophilas, and those 
that are freely self sown may be sown now and 
will give stronger plants and an earlier bloom 
than if kept out of the ground until spring. 
Bedding Plants. —Make cuttings if not already 
done, and take up such old plants as it is desired 
to keep over winter. Fuchsias, Lantanas, etc., do 
well in a cellar, if kept rather dry. 
Bidbs. —Plant early, sufficient directions are given 
for successful management on page 316. 
Cht'ysanihemums. —There should always be an 
abundance of these, as they make the garden gay 
when most other flowers are gone. Pot some for 
in-door blooming, if not already done. Keep tied 
up to stakes, to prevent injury from winds. 
Dahlias. —Keep well tied up, and see that all are 
properly labelled, while they arc yet in flower and 
can be identified. It often happens that we have a 
week or more of fine weather after the first frost, 
and if one takes the trouble to protect the plants 
from the first frosts by some light covering, the 
time of blooming maybe much prolonged. When 
the tops are killed, allow the plants to remain a 
week or more in the ground to ripen. 
Fratnes and Fits. —Have them ready to receive 
the plants. See article on this eubjeet on page 314. 
Gladioluses. —Cnt away the stems where the flow¬ 
ers fade, but leave the bulbs in the ground until 
there is danger of their being injured by freezing. 
Hedges .—Deciduous plants may be set for hedges 
as soon as the leaves fall. 
Lawns .—One great point in making a la'wn is to 
thoroughly prepare the soil. It should be trenched, 
or if this is impracticable, thoroughly plowed. It 
should then be carefully leveled and graded. Sow 
the seed, either Blue-grass or Rye-grass, very 
thickly, putting a little winter rye with it, and roll. 
Give another rolling just before the ground freezes. 
Bad places in lawns may be improved by turfing. 
Fbrenniah .—Transplant those from seed this 
spring, to the places where they are to flower. 
Clumps of established plants need to be taken up, 
divided and re-set about once in every three years. 
Pinks and Carnations .—Take up and pot the root¬ 
ed layers. Set them in a cold frame or dry cellar. 
Pansies and Violets .—These can be had in spring, 
early and in abundance, by setting the plants in a 
cold frame. Give air freely in mild ■weather, and 
in severe, cover the glass with a mat or shutters. 
Stocks and Wall-fiowers .—Pot and remove them 
to the green-house or cold pit. 
Transplanting .—All hardy trees and shrubs ex¬ 
cepting evergreens do much better if transplanted 
early this month, than they will in spring. Give 
these the same care in planting and pruning as is 
given to fruit trees. If any native shrubs are to be 
brought into the grounds, look after them before 
tile lea%'es fall, and carefully mark them. 
Greesi nitid Hot Hou§e§.—All but the 
very hardy plants should be in-doors, but Azaleas, 
Camellias and other robust things may stay out 
until there is danger of frost. All the pots ought 
to be cleaned when taken in, and the surface soil 
removed and replaced with fresh. Prune, train and 
stake the plants as may be needed, to have all in 
perfectly neat order. Have everything in readiness 
to give fire if needed. The hot house will of course 
need fire heat. In the green-house give all possible 
ventilation, but guard against sudden changes. 
Potting soil and pots, if not on hand, are to be se¬ 
cured in sufficient quantity without further delay. 
The fight with insects should be opened at the 
beginning, and no plants badly infested ought to 
be brought into the house without first being 
completely freed from these troublesome pests. 
Annuals for winter blooming are to be sowed, 
and bulbs of various kinds to be potted. Keep the 
bulbs in a dark warm place, as noted on page 316. 
Of annuals. Mignonette is always wanted in abun¬ 
dance, as it is prized in bouquets for its fragrance. 
Schizanthus, Sweet Alyssum, Phlox Drummondii 
and others will help decorate the house. 
Roses for winter blooming are to be well cut back. 
Hardy plants, which arc to be forced, such as 
Dicentra spectabilis, Deutzia gracilis, the Lily of 
the Valley, and others, may be potted now. 
Cold Grapery.—By closing the lo-wer 
sashes and ventilating only by the upper ones, the 
temperature of the house may be somewhat in¬ 
creased, and this will favor the ripening of the 
wood. The leaves should not be stripped from the 
vines ; when perfectly ripe and they have fulfilled 
their office, they will fall. In case of sudden cold 
weather occurring, close up the house entirely. 
Tlie Apiary for Octolier .—Prepared 
by II. Quinby, by request .—Foul brood is occasional¬ 
ly found in sections where it was never before seen. 
A few days ago I received a few combs containing 
it from Iowa, with accompanying questions as to 
the proper method of eradicating it. The writer 
suggested that its appearance in that vicinity 'was 
caused by sudden changes in the weather, etc. My 
answer may be of general interest. There is but 
little cause for alarm. If it has been brought into 
his neighborhood from some infected district, he 
has only to take up all hives in which it was found, 
and that will end it. If it results from some 
peculiar atmospheric influence, past experience in¬ 
dicates that it may not occur again in n number of 
years. If it originates in something gathered by 
the bees from some plant, or flower just intro¬ 
duced, it might prove more serious, as they would 
continue to gather it. 
I would advise an inspection of all hives, sncli as 
have been wintered, even where the disease is un¬ 
known. A timely arrest may prevent much loss. 
All healthy brood will probably be hatched early 
this month. Brood cells, now closed, should be 
opened ; if the bee, while in a larva state, is dark 
colored, it is dead. A half-dozen such should con¬ 
demn the hive. The middle of the day is much the 
best time to inspect them. Protect the face, and 
use smoke of rotten wood, or rags, to drive the 
bees away from the combs to be examined. By 
perseverance in removing all affected stocks im- 
mediatelj’, it is often, nearly, if not entirely eradica¬ 
ted in sections where it has prevailed for years. If 
all bee keepers would remove every diseased stock 
this month, without allowing any of the honey to 
be taken into healthy ones, it is doubtful if it 
would reappear in'several years. 
See that all stocks have a proper supply of honey 
for winter; 25 to 80 lbs. is sufficient. If a colony 
is deficient, feed to the required standard—not by 
weighing what is fed—it may be carried off by 
other bees—but by weighing what is stored in the 
hive. Feed at night, taking away in the morning 
what is left. Give them all they will take, until they 
have enough. If honey in the comb is fed, cut off 
the sealing of the cells ; set in the top of the hive, 
and when robbers are excluded, it may remain 
through the day. It is better to take up hives that 
might possibly be wintered, than to undertake to 
to keep more than can be put in proper condition. 
The anxiety to keep as many colonies as possible, 
makes bee keepers a great deal of trouble. It has 
been very reasonably suggested that, if all but good 
stocks were taken np, another year ■would count up 
a greater number than if all were kept. 
When it is decided to take up a light colony, it 
is better economy to put it away i\'ith the contents, 
after taking out all the dead bees between the 
combs, for a swarm another year, than to break 
out the honey for the table. Set right side up in 
some dry place, where it will freeze thoroughly. 
Stop out mice and bees, and next season it will 
be just what you want for a very early, or late 
swarm. An early swarm put in such a hive -vvould 
be likely to fill up, and send out a sivarm, or if it 
did not, it would be ready to store surplus much 
sooner. Combs to be strained, should be broken 
and laid on the strainer while warm, as soon as 
possible after the bees are removed. The best 
combs for the table are near the top and outside of 
the hive. Those near the bottom and middle are 
tough, and contain more bee-breacl. When broken 
to strain, they should simply be laid on the strainer, 
without rubbing or working over, 'which mixes the 
bee-bread with the honey. If the weather is warm, 
it will drain very clean through wire-cloth. A few 
particles of ■wax will rise to the top after standing 
a few hours, which may be skimmed off, leaving the 
honey perfectly clear. For the process of making 
metheglin, vinegar, etc., see previous numbers 
of the Agriculturist. 
CatalogMCs, etc., lieccit'ed.—Frost & 
Co., Genesee Valley Nurseries, Rochester, N. cata¬ 
logues fertile Autumn of 1865... . J. C. Plumb, Lake 
Side Nursery. Madison, Wis., Fruit, Evergreen, and vie- 
cidiious trees and shrubs .....Haines* Hacker, Chel¬ 
tenham (Montgomery Co., Pa.) Nurseries; illustrated 
catalogue of Nursery Stock..... .William Parry, Pomo¬ 
na Garden ;>nd Nursery. Cinnaminson, Durlington Co., 
N. J.; general assortment of small Fruits, Peaches, etc. 
__E. Williams, Montclair, N. J., Small Fruit Nurse¬ 
ry; small Fruits in general, and tlie Kittatinny Black¬ 
berry in particular.Descriptive list of Hardy Native 
Grape Vines ; by George W. Campbell Delaware, Ohio, 
who claims to be the original disseminator of the univer¬ 
sally popular Delaware ..Report of the Proceedings 
of the Fruit-Growers’ Society of Eastern Pennsylvania, 
for 1863—’64, and the winter meeting of 1865 .Eighth 
Annual Report of the Board of Commissioners of Cen¬ 
tral Park, showing ■what has been done the past year, 
and con'emplaled improveinents ; from Andre-w H. 
Green. Esq. Coniplioiler, 
