330 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURISl. 
[KoVEMBEil, 
Plowing .—The drj’ wearier which has prevailed 
during the autumn, will make the ground very hard 
to plow in many places, but some fields may be 
much better plowed now than next spring. See 
article on plowing wet lands in this number. The 
benefit of the frost in winter, the fact that the 
teams are in better condition for work, and the 
greater leisure we have now than in spring, should 
lead us to do all the plowing possible this fall. 
Poultry .—To have eggs in winter, the hens must 
have warm, light quarters, well ventilated, frequent¬ 
ly cleaned out, always sweet; they must be regu¬ 
larly fed, never have too much, never too little, and 
always fresh-water. If all the hens are induced to 
lay in winter, there will be few or none to lay or to 
set in spring for May and June broods. 
Sheep .—Let the rams run with ewes for March 
lambs, not allowing valuable animals to share their 
attention among too many. 
RooU .—Dig and house, or cover in pits before 
hurt by frosts. Carrots and beets are tenderest. 
Water .—If possible secure running water in the 
stock yard. The past months of drouth in many 
sections have shown the living springs and welis. 
Weeds .—Rake up and destroy them all by fire. 
Wood .—Dead wood, and that which having been 
blown down, or broken off by the winds, cumbers 
the wood lot, may be collected and used for fuel. 
WorR in tlie Orchard and Mnrsery. 
The operations of planting and putting the stock 
in the best condition for winter will continue to 
occupy the attention of the orchardist and nursery¬ 
man. The suggestions of last month will serve for 
the earlj' part of the present one. Planting may 
be continued as long as the weather is suitable. If 
any nursery stock is received which cannot be care¬ 
fully planted, heel it in, selecting a light soil in a 
place where water will not stand. Be careful 
that no spaces are left among the roots, unfilled by 
earth. Trees carefully heeled in, will pass the 
winter in perfect safety and be at h.and when want¬ 
ed for spring planting. Much may be done in pre¬ 
paring the soil for planting in siuIng. Manuring, 
plowing, and even making the holes for the trees 
can be continued while the we.ather permits. 
Cider .—Those who are fortunate enough to have 
apples, will find directions for making good and 
sound cider on page 804, last month. 
Cellars .—Do not close up the cellars where fruit 
is stored, until there is danger of freezing. Ven¬ 
tilation is necessary, and where the construction of 
the house will allow, it is a good plan to open a 
ventilator into a flue of the chimney. 
Grafting .—Seedling stocks to be root grafted, arc 
to be taken up and hceled-in in the cellar, or where 
they can be taken out when needed. Cut cions after 
the trees are at rest, and bury in sand or light soil. 
Insects .—Many of these pests may now be “ nip¬ 
ped in the bud.” The clusters of eggs and cocoons 
can now be readily seen on the naked trees, and the 
time expended in searching for and removing them 
will be profitably employed. So with borers : ex¬ 
amine the trees near the roots, and if any borer 
holes are visible, kill the grub with a wire probe. 
Labels .—that all are in a condition to pass the 
winter without becoming effaced. Those on newly 
planted trees need looking to. The wire is often 
twisted on firmly at the nursery, and when growth 
starts, the tree may become girdled. Labels or 
stakes to be set in the ground, will last for many 
years if the lower portion be covered with gas tar. 
Manuring .—Bearing trees need annual manuring 
if we would have the best results. Spread a coat¬ 
ing of compost or coarse m.anure over the roots. 
See last month on page 314. In our best nurseries 
the young stock is manured at this season, a good 
compost being plowed in between the rows. 
Nursery TJom.—Give them the final plowing, 
turning the furrows towards the rows. In large 
nurseries the heading back and shaping continues 
through the winter in mild weather. 
Seedlings .—Cover the half hardy kinds with a ! 
shelter of evergreen boughs. See that water 
drains away from the beds. An inch or two of 
sand, or dry sandy earth thrown up around the 
stems of seedling evergreens will help protect them. 
Kitclien Clai’deii. —As long as the 
ground can be worked, there is something which 
the gardener can do for the benefit of future crops. 
Manuring and plowing, or trenching is all the bet¬ 
ter done now, and drains may be laid. Stiff soils 
thrown into ridges will be much ameliorated by the 
frosts of winter. Make surface drains to carry wa¬ 
ter away from crops left out over winter. All refuse 
should be secured to add to the manure heap. Weeds 
that have gone to seed, are to be dried and burned. 
Asparagus .—Make new beds as heretofore direct¬ 
ed. Give old beds a good covering of littery manure. 
Beets and Carrots .—Hard frosts injure these, and 
they should be out of the way of harm. Store in a 
dry cellar, and cover with sand to prevent wilting. 
Cabbages .—Take up and protect by some of the 
methods given last month. The Savoys which are 
better for freezing, do very well if heeled-iu close to¬ 
gether,and covered with straw with boards laid over. 
Celery .—That grown in flat culture, according to 
the article published in July, page 218, should be 
taken up and put in trendies, .as there directed. If 
the weather continues mild, that in trenches may 
have another earthing up. We have, seen good re¬ 
sults from plants grown on the surface and blanch¬ 
ed by putting salt hay between them. This excludes 
the lighf^^nd the celery blanches and is kept clean. 
Cold Frames .—Keep open if the weather is mild, 
but close up before night fall. Have shutters or 
mats, to put over in ease of a cold snap. 
Mice .—These do great mischief among seeds and 
plants. Use traps and poison. Be careful not to 
harbor any in the cold frames. 
Parsnips and Salsify .—The principal part of the 
crop may be left in the ground, but dig enough for 
use while the earth is frozen .and bury in the cellar. 
Rhubarb .—It is better to make new plantings in 
the fall, as it starts so early in spring that the plants 
are apt to get too large before the ground can be 
worked. Divide old i)lants with a sharp spade, so 
that each crown or bud will have a portion of root 
attached. Set 4 feet apart each way in highly ma¬ 
nured soil. Give old beds a heavy manuring. 
Spinach .—Give a light covering of litter 
Turnips .—Allow them to grow until danger of 
frost; gather and store in pits or in the cellar. 
Woode7i Appliances .—All stakes, poles, frames and 
other garden conveniences of wood will last much 
longer if put under cover for the winter. 
Fruit. Ciarden. —Preparation of the soil, 
planting hardy trees and shrnbs, and caring for 
tender ones will be in order. 
Blackberries .—Set out plants as heretofore directed. 
All will do better if the canes can be laid down and 
covered with earth. Dig the earth away from one 
side of the stool, and then crowd it over. 
Currants and Ooosebetn-ies .—These require similar 
treatment. Cuttings or rooted plants may be set 
as directed on page 281, and 282 (September). A 
good dressing of manure will benefit old bushes. 
Bnarf Apples and Pears .—Trees may be planted 
if the soil is well prepared. Cut bask before plant¬ 
ing, more or less severely, according to the vigor 
of the tree. See article in January of this year on 
shaping dwarf trees. 
Grape Vi7ies .—Two years from the bud is old 
enough for planting in a well drained soil, work¬ 
ed and manured to the depth of 20 inches. Cut 
the vine back to within a foot of the ground .at 
planting. Spread the roots equally, and after they 
are covered, make a mound of e.arth around the 
stem to protect the buds. Some notes upon prun¬ 
ing are given on page 345, and the manner of treat¬ 
ing vines tr.aincd on the arm and spur system is 
illustrated in the Agricultwist for November, 18(54. 
Plants m.ay be set. All kinds, 
whether hardy or not, are better if laid down and 
protected in winter by a slight covering of earth. 
St7'awberries .—Cover at the approach of freezing 
weather. Straw is most used; leaves will answer if 
covered with a little earth to keep them in place. 
Do not cover the plant deeply, the object is to pro¬ 
tect the roots from alternate freezing and thawing. 
FSower ©ardcjn and I.<awn. —While 
the unusually dry autumn has impaired the beauty 
of the late blooming flowers, it h.as been favorable 
for all work of construction, road making, grad¬ 
ing and planting of deciduous trees. 
Bulbs .—October is the most suitable month for 
planting the Dutch bulbs, but it may be done early 
this month. See article on p.age 316 (October). 
Take up Gladiolus, Tigridias and others pl.anted 
hast spring, before the ground freezes. Dry them 
in the sun and st ore them in a cool place where 
they will not be injured by frost, or mice. Preserve 
the labels with all named varieties. 
Chrysanthemums .—The t.all growing ones will 
need stakes to support the weight of flowers. When 
done flowering, cut aw.ay the old stems. 
Dahlias .—Cut .away the stems as soon as the frost 
has killed the leaves. Take up the roots, without 
breaking them, on a fine morning, and expose them 
for some hours to the sun. Label and store them 
in a cool vegetable cellar. Some pack them in 
dry sand. They will keep in any place that is 
suitable for potatoes and other vegetables. 
Hedges .—Deciduous hedge plants may be set. 
Never make a hedge where its spreading roots 
will rob the soil devoted to other plants. 
Frames and Fts .—These are to be opened when¬ 
ever the weather is mild enongh, and closed before 
the air becomes chilly. Protect in severe weather 
by shutters or mats. Give water only when the 
earth looks dry. Keep mice out, or they will 
destroy the plants. 
Lawns .—The groxind may be prepared bj' manur¬ 
ing, plowing, leveling, etc., but it is now too late 
to seed with much prospect of success. Old lawns 
may have a good dressing of compost and be rolled. 
Perennials .—The hardiest of these will come out 
all the stronger in spring, if they are covered by a 
few forkfuls of long manure. 
Roses .—If the tender sorts cannot be wintered in 
a pit, or cellar, bend them down and cover the 
branches with a few inches earth. 
Shrubs .—Tender and half hardy kinds may be 
taken to the cellar. Set in boxes of earth, and 
water sparingly as needed. 
TPi'sfarias.—In places much nortli of New York 
it is necessary, in order to secure a bloom, to lay 
this down and cover it with a few inches of earth. 
Treat other tender climbers in the same manner. 
Oreeii assd Hot-HToiises.— The transi¬ 
tion from the open air to the confinement of the 
house should be made as gradual as possible by 
giving ventilation whenever the outside tempera¬ 
ture will allow. Fire will not be needed in the 
green-house, unless the temperature is likely to go 
below 4.5'’. In the hot-house the thermometer may 
range from 60'’ to 7.5°. Plants at rest suffer 
more from au excess than from hack of water. 
Animals .—If seed has not been sown of those an¬ 
nuals desirable in..a green-house, attend to it at 
once. Mignionettc, Nemophilas, Rhodanthe, Sweet 
Alyssum, etc., .are all useful. • 
Bulbs .—Pot a good supply of Hyacinths, Tulips, 
Narcissus, etc., for blooming in succession. Set the 
pots under the stage in the dark, until they are 
well filled with roots. 
Camellias .—Give those to be flowered early plenty 
of light and more water than those to be retarded. 
Greens .—Secure a supply of green suitable to use 
in bouquets, and store in the cellar. Our native 
Lycopodium dendroidum is one of tlie most valuable. 
Insects .—Extra vigilance in the beginning of the 
season will save much future annoyance. Punilga- 
