1869 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
79 
stock of eggs may usually be secured. Hens that 
steal their nests will usually become broody as soon 
as they have a dozen or fifteen eggs. So, if half a 
dozen liens lay in one nest, the nest full of eggs 
tends to stop the laying, and promote a desire to sit. 
The same is true of turkeys and ducks; perhaps 
also of geese, but in a less degree. Ducks ought 
to be shut rip every night, and not let out before 
eight or nine o’clock in the morning, or not until 
each duck has laid an egg ; thus they will keep on 
laying until July. Fowls must not be allowed to 
sit in exposed places ; and if broods come off, they 
will die of cold and exposure, or fall victims to 
vermin, unless very carefully protected, and kept 
in warm, dry places. Old empty hay bays are very 
favorable for this purpose. 
canes, until good strong ones, half an inch in di¬ 
ameter, are secured as the basis of the vine. 
Currant Cuttings should have been put out last 
fall, but they will do fairly if set now. Pack the 
earth well about their lower ends. 
Currant and Gooseberry bushes start early, and 
should be transplanted as soon as practicable. 
Prune those that need it. See article on page 96. 
Kitchen inanlcii. 
Preparation and forwarding are the order here. 
Every one likes to be just a little ahead of his 
neighbors with early crops, and if one markets his 
produce, it is well known that a few days in earli¬ 
ness makes a great difference in the receipts. 
Getting out Manure .—This is work for frosty morn¬ 
ings, as the wheels and teams would cut up the 
land badly at other times; or it should be delayed 
until the ground is somewhat dry. 
Composts made now will heat and be in good 
order for the corn crop. Muck got out in the 
winter will be in condition to be thus used, mixed 
with 1 1 4 or ‘| 3 its bulk of barn-yard manure. 
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Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
Orchard and Nursery. 
Planting, in some localities, can now be done, but 
at the North, generally, it is better to wait until 
next month. A young tree, put into cold soil, and 
exposed to drying March winds, has a hard struggle. 
Shriveled Trees , that have become dried during 
transportation, are to be placed in a trench, and 
covered, root and branch, with fine, mellow earth. 
In about a week they will be found to have re¬ 
gained their original plumpness, when they may bo 
taken out, properly pruned, and planted. 
Heeling-in should be done with trees as soon as 
they arrive, if there is to be the least delay in 
planting. • The importance of keeping the roots 
of trees from drying cannot be overestimated. 
Grafting may be done first on the cherry, and 
later on the plum. Apples and pears do better if 
left Tintil the buds commence to start. 
Cherry Stones, for stocks, start very early; plant 
as soon as the frost is out of the ground. 
Stocks budded last year arc to be headed back. 
Evergreen Seeds .—Many inquire about raising ever¬ 
greens from seed, and some complain of failure. It 
is useless to look for success unless some provision 
is made for shading the young plants. On a small 
scale, the following plan, suggested by Meehan, is 
said to work well. “A common board frame is 
placed over a carefully-prepared bed of light mould, 
and covered with shaded, hot-bed sash. Under 
each corner of the frame is placed a prop, raising 
the bottom about three inches above the surface of 
the ground. The advantages of this contrivance 
will at once be appreciated when we consider that 
Ilot-beds are of great use in getting early seed 
lings, and there is scarcely any subject concerning 
which we have more letters of inquiry. The requi¬ 
sites for making a hot-bed arc boards, glazed sash¬ 
es, manure in a state of active fermentation, and a 
supply of light, rich soil. The old way of making 
a manure stack on top of the ground, and putting 
a frame over it, is well-nigh abandoned. It is 
more economical of manure and other materi¬ 
als to make an excavation. All the operations 
depend upon the size of the sashes. Six feet 
by three is the regular size, but any other will 
do. Select a well-drained place, facing to the south, 
and sheltered by a fence, building, or hedge, from 
prevailing cold winds; make an excavation two 
feet deep, of a width and length to accommodate 
the sash. Drive down stakes, and board up the pit, 
having the boards at the rear 18 inches, and those 
at the front 12 inches above the surface. The ma¬ 
nure to be used should be in a state of active fer¬ 
mentation—a condition which may be secured by 
turning over stable manure two or three times, at 
intervals of a few days, according to the tempera¬ 
ture, watering it if it becomes dry. A good rule is 
to form the manure in a compact, conical heap, and 
when it “ smokes,” turn it over. Fill the trench 
with fermenting manure, pack or tread it rather 
firmly, cover it with six inches of light, rich soil, 
and put the sashes in place. Put a thermometer 
in the soil, and when the heat declines from 100°, 
the sowing may be done. Sow Tomatoes', Egg 
Plant, Peppers, Early Cabbages, etc., in rows four 
inches apart. The soil covering the seeds must be 
both rich and light. Where plants are forwarded 
to the best advantage, a milder bed is in readiness, 
to which the plants are transplanted, when large 
enough to handle. For the management of the hot¬ 
bed, after the plants are up, see article on page 99. 
Cold Frames, properly arranged, are nearly as 
quick as hot-beds. Place a frame covered with sash 
over well-prepared soil. Let it be well exposed to 
the sun during the day, but before its heat declines 
in the afternoon, cover the sash with mats. In 
this way, a patch of warm soil will be secured, in 
which seeds will germinate rapidly. Airing and 
other care must be observed, as for hot beds. 
the most essential conditions in raising evergreen 
seedlings are a moist atmosphere, protection from 
the direct rays of the sun, and, at the same 
time, a free circulation of air through the plants.” 
Fruit Garden. 
Strawberries maybe set as soon ns the ground can 
be worked. Take the country through, and the 
Wilson will be found to be the favorite.; there are 
many better varieties, but this is the most generally 
reliable. Set the plants eighteen inches apart, in 
rows two feet apart; keep the ground clean, re¬ 
move all runners and blossom buds, and next 
spring there will be a good crop. 
Blackberries and Raspberries are best set in au¬ 
tumn. Spring planting should be done as early as 
the season will admit. Cut the canes down to the 
surface of the soil. Blackberries are usually put in 
rows eight feet apart, and raspberries from four to 
six feet, according to the variety. 
Grape Fines.—Prune those that were not attend¬ 
ed to last autumn as soon as the frost is out of 
them. Keep young vines to a single cane, or two 
Preparation of the soil must be pushed as fast as 
its condition will allow. Use api abundance of ma¬ 
nure, and spade or plow deeply. 
Sods are most admirable for hot-bed work. Lay 
a good bit of pasture sod, grass side down, and cut 
it into pieces three inches square. Plant in the 
soil of these pieces seeds of such plants as do not 
bear transplanting kindly—cucumbers, squashes, 
and the whole of that family, corn, and even early 
potatoes. Put these sods in the hot-bed, or cold 
frame; the young plants will fairly revel in the 
fresh earth, and at transplanting time the sod can be 
placed out without disturbance of the roots. 
Window Boxes are to be commended to those 
who operate on a small scale. A box four inches 
deep, filled with light, rich soil, and placed in a 
sunny kitchen window, will afford early plants for 
I be family garden. Have a similar box in reserve 
for the young plants, when they need transplanting. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers that have been wintered 
over iu cold frames may now be fully exposed. 
Roots .—Dig parsnips and salsify before any 
growth commences. 
Asparagus and Rhubarb Beds, that have been cov¬ 
ered during the winter, .may have life coarse ma¬ 
nure removed, and the liner portions forked in. 
Peas .—Sow for early crop, putting the seed at 
least three or four inches deep. Try the dwarfs. 
Potatoes .—Plant early sorts; it is best to have 
some litter at hand, to draw over in case of frost. 
Onions .—Potato arid top onions, as well r s sets, 
are to be put in as soon as the soil can be worked. 
Plant 4 or 5 inches apart, in rows a foot distant. 
Seed Raising .—All roots saved to produce seed 
should be set out early. In warm and dry softs, 
this may be done this month. Soil may be drawn 
towards them, to protect them from frosts, which 
is to be removed after danger is over. 
Hardy Vegetables include carrots, beets, spinach, 
salsify, onions, leaks, early turnips, etc.; these may 
be sown for the first crop whenever the soil and 
season will allow. Sow in rows fifteen inches 
apart. Cress and lettuce may be put twelve inches 
apart. Radishes may be sown broadcast with beets, 
etc., or have a bed by themselves. 
Flower :m«l Bbstwas. 
Roads and Walks need thorough work. Drainage 
is essential, arid solidity should be secured by mak¬ 
ing a good bed of stones to receive the gravel. 
lawns are mostly failures in this country for want 
of good work beneath the surface. The drainage 
being secured, the soil should be sufficiently fertile 
to sustain a verdure for years. If one kind of seed 
only is sown, use June Grass, or Red Top. Hen¬ 
derson recommends the following mixture: 12 
quarts Rhode Island Bent Grass, 4 quarts Creeping 
Bent Grass’ 10 quarts Red Top, 3 quarts sweet- 
scented Vernal Grass, 2 quarts Kentucky Blue 
(June) Grass, 1 quart White Clover=l Bushel; and 
from 2 to 5 bushels to the acre, according to tlie 
soil, using more for a poor than for a rich one. 
Trees .—Tlie deciduous ones may be planted when¬ 
ever it will do to plant fruit trees; give the same 
care as indicated for fruit trees under Orchard. 
Shrubs .—Transplant the hardy kinds. Let those 
which were covered for the winter retain their 
protection until the weather becomes established. 
Perennials that have been in place for three or 
four years will need to be lifted, and after being 
properly divided, reset. If there is a surplus, do 
not throw them away, put give to the neighbors. 
If nobody at hand wishes the plants, heel them in 
in a spare corner until some needy one comes along. 
Animals may be sown.—the hardy ones—in tlie 
open ground, but the tender kinds should be put in 
liot-beds, frames, or boxes, as directed under 
Kitchen Garden. Seedsmen’s catalogues usually 
designate the hardy and the tender varieties. 
4>ir« k c!ai»l«oj!se and 'Window Plants. 
Propagation for a supply of plants to use for bed¬ 
ding purposes can now go on rapidly. Where 
there is a green-house and a gardener, no instruc¬ 
tions are needed, but in the absence of these, 
Saucer Propagation is the great resource of the 
amateur. A shallow dish of sand, always kept 
wet —in the condition of thin mud —allows of tlie 
rapid multiplication of most plants. We published 
this some years ago, and several have complained 
of failure. We have tried it with things of the 
most diverse nature, and know that it will succeed 
if the cuttings are sufficiently succulent, tiie sand 
is kept thoroughly wet, and the whole exposed to 
full light. As soon as the plants make root, they 
must be potted in light and rich soil. 
Camellias bear all needed pruning. The only 
time the camellia can be forced is when it is mak¬ 
ing its growth. Rapid growth and early formed 
buds will give early flowers next autumn. 
Plants in Cellars are to be brought forward ac¬ 
cording to the season. Exposure to light, water, 
and heat, will soon start, them into growth. 
Insects will increase with the season Prevention 
by fumigation is better than cure. Make a smoke 
of tobacco in the houses at least twice a week. 
