178 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[May, 
The Art of Grafting. 
Those whose knowledge of grafting is con¬ 
fined to the old and prevailing practice of cleft- 
grafting would be surprised at a work of 320 
pages devoted solely to this method of propa¬ 
gation. Mr. Charles Baltet, Horticulturist of 
Troyes, France, has published the Art of Graft¬ 
ing (E Art de Greffer). in which forty-seven dif¬ 
Fig. L— FORMS OF SIDE-GRAFTING. 
ferent kinds of grafting (including budding) are 
explained, and generally illustrated by engrav¬ 
ings. Some of these methods are only suited to 
particular varieties of trees, while others have a 
more wide application. The success of graft¬ 
ing of all kinds—as far as the mechanical part 
is concerned,—consists in bringing the growing 
parts into close contact. The growth of the 
stem (in diameter, at least) takes place between 
the bark and the wood. It is here we find the 
“ pulp ” or cambium layer, as the newly form¬ 
ing wood is called, and the directions given, that 
the bark of the stock and cion shall accurately 
meet, really mean that the newly forming wood 
of the stock shall be in close contact with that 
of the cion. In cleft-grafting, a limb or the top 
of a young tree is sacrificed, a matter of no im¬ 
portance, when we wish to change the tree or 
limb entirely; but if the object be to simpiy test 
a variety of fruit, it is then desirable to be able 
to do it without disfiguring the tree. On page 
138, last month, we gave M. Sisley’s method of 
—INLAID GRAFTING. 
accomplishing this by grafting in the forks of 
the branches; and there are several methods of 
side-grafting which accomplish the same end. 
In Europe, where the refinements of horticul¬ 
ture are practised to as great an extent as they 
are neglected with us, fruit trees are trained as 
espaliers, cordons, pyramids, etc., with a care 
which very few oi our cultivators are disposed 
to give. In trees of this kind, regularity is essen¬ 
tial, and if a branch docs not appear in the 
place where it is needed, one is put there. Some 
of the forms of side-grafting may be used for 
this purpose. Three forms of side-grafting are 
shown in figure 1, which is from War¬ 
der’s American Pomology. A is a curved 
cion, selected in order that the branch shall 
not make too sharp an angle with the tree; 
it is whittled down at its lower end, or 
chamfered, on one side only, and has a bud 
opposite the cut portion. The cion thus 
prepared may be introduced under the bark 
of the stock, in which a T incision is made, 
as in C; or the incision may be as in B, in 
which a notch is cut in the stock down 
to the wood, above the longitudinal in¬ 
cision. At D is another form of cion, with 
a terminal bud; the cut at the lower end 
should be longer than is shown in the en¬ 
graving. A fruit bud, E , is sometimes in¬ 
serted by amateurs who wish to test a vari¬ 
ety at once. These forms of grafting can only 
be done after the leaves have started, and 
the bark will “run”; they are to be 
bound and covered with waxed cloth in the 
usual way. A very simple form of side¬ 
grafting is that in which the cion is cut at the 
base to a thin wedge, and inserted in an incis¬ 
ion made downward into the wood of the stock, 
as in figure 2. This is used with evergreens, 
camellias, etc., the incision be¬ 
ing more or less oblique, as ex¬ 
perience has shown the particu- 
| Jj lar plant to require. M. Baltet 
f If gives another plan for restoring 
\f 1 iff branches where they are needed, 
?J kl ill which he calls a variety of the 
inlaid graft (greffe en placage). 
We give M. B.’s figure. The cion 
is prepared as in A, fig. 3. A strip 
of bark is removed from the stock 
B , and the sap-wood cut away 
sufficiently to allow' the bevel 
of the cion to exactly fit; the 
binding is shown in C, the parts being properly 
covered with wax. Above the insertions incis¬ 
ions are made to check the flow of sap and 
throw it into the grafts. Grafting of this kind 
needs the most accurate fitting, and an imple¬ 
ment is used consisting of two blades, which 
are brought together or separated by a screw. 
This serves to measure the width of the cion 
as well as to mark the incision in the bark. 
if 
Fla-. 2 . 
A Circular Grape Trellis. 
Those who understand the laws governing 
the growth of the vine can train it in a great 
variety of ways. A subscriber in Manchester, 
N. II., writes as follows : “ I send you a sketch 
of a trellis that I have used in my garden with 
satisfactory results, both as an ornament and 
support for the vine. It is not patented, and any 
one can make it who chooses, as follows: Pro¬ 
cure a post long enough to stand 7 1 | 2 or 8 feet out 
of the ground; if turned, with an ornament at 
the top, it will look all the better. Eighteen inch¬ 
es above the ground, set in six arms to support 
a rim four inches deep, and ten feet in circumfer¬ 
ence ; halve the ends of the arms on to the under 
side of the rim, and fasten with nails or screws. 
Three feet above this rim, put another just like 
it; put in some eyes made of wire, at the top of 
the post, say twelve or fourteen. Divide the 
rims into as many spaces as you have put in 
eyes, and stretch some No. 16 galvanized wire 
from the eye to the lower rim, taking a turn 
round a nail in the edge of the top one, and 
fasten it securely at the bottom. Give it one 
or two coats of paint, and it is ready for the 
vine. Plant two vines under or near the trellis 
and grow them with double arms. Train the 
arms, one pair around the upper and one around 
the lower rim. Allow two fruit canes, after the 
first year of fruiting, to each wire; keep them 
tied to the wires, and by midsummer the trellis 
will be covered and will look very pretty, espe¬ 
cially if you get near enough to see the rich 
clusters of fruit. This gives the same amount 
of vine as on a straight trellis ten feet long and 
two tiers high, and it can be used in many 
places where other kinds can not.” 
Hedge Planting on the Prairies. 
“H. N. P.,” Bloomington, Ill., writes: “ Your 
correspondent ‘ G. N. M.’ has given good ad¬ 
vice on page 99, (March Agriculturist), but let 
o 
r 't 
' / ( 7 . 
METHOD OF SETTING A HEDGE. 
me add a suggestion. I can best illustrate the 
practice of our most rapid hedge planters by 
reference to the sketch. First insert the spade 
in the line of a — d , then bearing down or back¬ 
ward on the handle, bring it to b, which will 
throw the point upward and forward toward e, 
then a little pressure of the foot will push the 
