1869 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
239 
tlie winter supply holds good in dry weather Salt 
regularly. Old ewes fatten faster in hot than cool 
weather, and may be fed grain to advantage. 
Swine .—Feed peas as soon as they are tit ; give 
breeding sows the range of the orchard, or some 
other piece of land, where they can get all the green 
feed they need; otherwise, cut and feed green 
clover, corn sowed for fodder, or grass, daily. 
Cows need some succulent green food, and the 
best is corn fodder, cut in the forenoon, and fed at 
night or the next day. Yard the cows at night, 
and give them a good feed of corn fodder, and the 
manure will pay for the trouble twice over. 
Foiwls.— Chickens hatched after this will rarely or 
never be of full size. Parasitic vermin increase 
greatly in hot weather. Keep good dusting baths 
for fowls, adding wood ashes and sulphur. 
Weeds .—Let none go to seed. Easier said than 
done, but do it if you can. We use a heavy hoe, 2 
inches wide, 6 inches long, and sharp. It will cut 
off a dock root three inches under ground at one 
blow, and it is fun to use it where the weeds are 
not too plenty. Dock that is pulled or cut in 
blossom will mature every seed, we think; so will 
many other weeds. Lay such in heaps, and when 
dry, burn them. 
Work iii the Horticultural Departments. 
Our text this month is “ weeds.” Not but what 
they are to be fought in other months, but in these 
scorcliiug days it is a peculiar satisfaction to use 
the weeding implements ; there arc now no spring 
showers to make the weeds start all the better for 
a transplanting, but once uproot them, whether 
with the cultivator, hoe, or rake, and they immedi¬ 
ately perish. It cannot be too frequently repeated 
that it is easier to destroy weeds when they mere 
seedlings, than after they become well established. 
Orclimd and Nursery. 
Mulch, if to be of benefit, should be applied 
before the drying heats come on. It is intended to 
preserve the moisture already in the soil, and 
should be put on before any great amount of dry¬ 
ing has taken place. If the soil is kept mellow, 
the light surface soil answers as a mulch. 
Thinning should have been attended to earlier, 
but it is better to do it now than to neglect it alto¬ 
gether. Those pears which grow in clusters are 
especially benefited by removing one-half or two- 
thirds. The Seckel, which is ordinarily a very small 
pear, may be bad of very respectable size by severe 
thinning, and pears which are ordinarily large may 
be made of “ exhibition ” size by the same process. 
Every commission merchant will say that one 
basket of first-class fruit will bring more than two 
of ordinary quality. 
Peaches .—It promises to be a great season for 
peaches, and the prices will probably be low. Those 
who exercise the most care and judgment in pack¬ 
ing will get thehest returns. Send select fruit only, 
should the season prove an abundant one, and feed 
all inferior stuff to the pigs, or put it in the ma¬ 
nure heap. AVhen fruit is plenty, it will not do to 
pay freight on that of inferior quality. 
Cherries have set well; but as far as our observa¬ 
tion goes, they have been badly' stung by the cur- 
culio, and are disposed to rot. We do not generally 
at the East look for an abundant crop. Those who 
are fortunate enough to have cherries to market 
should have them carefully picked, and provide 
6ueh ladders as will allow the fruit to be gathered 
without injury to the trees. 
Pruning is now done on the young, wood, and 
will save a great deal of sawing and cutting here¬ 
after. The young shoots which grow where 
branches are not wanted are now readily removed. 
Old growths may now be removed, taking care to 
leave a smooth wound to heal over. 
Budding is to be done whenever well-matured 
buds can be had, and the bark of the stock “ runs ” 
or parts freely from the wood. 
Black Knot .— No remedy has been found for this 
bgne to plum and cherry trees other than thg kpife. 
If it appears on a large limb, cut it out; if on a 
small one, cut it off: at any rale, do not let it re¬ 
main, if it requires the destruction of the whole tree. 
Insects will still need attention. See that the 
borers do not penetrate the tree. If the eggs have 
been laid, rubbing with a corn-cob will kill them. 
If the grubs have already gained an entrance, the 
fact may be discovered, and they can be easily dug 
out by the use of the knife. Keep a look-out for 
the late caterpillars which prey upon the leaves. 
It is often better to sacrifice a branch upon which 
leaf-eating caterpillars have established themselves, 
than to let them spread to the whole tree. Visit 
the orchard frequently, and see what the many in¬ 
sect enemies arc doing. 
Cherry and reach Stones .—Collect them from 
healthy trees only, and put them in sand at once. 
If allowed to get dry, neither will germinate. 
Fruit Garden. 
Those who market fruits should read the arti¬ 
cles which we have from time to time published. 
All that has been said about strawberries applies to 
the later fruits. Send the best. The condition of 
ripeness is governed by the distance from market. 
Blackberries .—The New Rochelle is a nuisance, as 
it is never ripe when it is black ; yet when it does 
not winter-kill, it is a profitable variety, but one 
which we would not recommend for family use. 
Well grown and well ripened it is really fine, 
but we can grow the Kittatinny and the Wilson 
with the assurance that we shall get a crop of fruit 
every year. Remove the old canes as soon as the 
fruit is gathered. Pinch the side shoots to 18 inches. 
Raspberries .—As the old wood will die out at any 
rate, it is best to remove it at once. Iloe off all 
suckers that are not needed for propagation. 
Strawberries .—See article on page 258, on Straw¬ 
berries in Pots. If runners have become well rooted 
without pots, they may be taken up carefully and 
put where they are to fruit. 
Grape Vines .—The laterals will now be pushing 
vigorously. Pinch their growth back to one leaf. 
Do not let young vines overbear. One bunch to 
the shoot is sufficient. Keep all vines, young or 
old, tied up to a stake or trellis, and keep off all 
volunteer shoots. 
Ifitclirn Garden. 
Asparagus .—The bed is now usually neglected, 
but really the best time to apply fertilizers is while 
the plant is making its growth. We shall give ours 
a good dressing of superphosphate. 
Beans of the bush sorts may still be planted for 
late use and for pickles. Pinch Limas when they 
reach the top of the pole. 
Beets may still be sown with the prospect of a 
fair crop. Thin the earlier plantings as needed. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers .—The later sorts may 
beset out from the seed-bed. Keep the ground 
well stirred among them. 
Carrots .—Continue to work between the rows 
until the leaves are so large as to prevent it. 
Celery .—Set out from the seed-bed, putting the 
rows 3 feet apart and the plants 6 inches in the 
rows. Press the soil firmly about the roots. 
Corn .—The early sorts, if planted now, will give 
a late supply for use and for drying. 
Egg Plants need frequent hoeing, and when fairly 
started, it will pay to give them liquid manure. 
The fruit should not be allowed to rest upon the 
ground, but have a wisp of straw put under it. 
Endive .—Sow for a late supply. The earlier sown 
should be blanched when the plants are one foot in 
diameter. This may be done by gathering up the 
outer leaves, and tying them over the center of the 
plant, or by placing a board upon the plants to ex¬ 
clude the light. 
Herbs .—Transplant sage, etc., from the seed-bed 
to the ground from which crops of peas, cabbages, 
and other early vegetables have been taken. 
Leeks .—Transplant from seed-bed to rows oue 
foot apart, getting the plants 6 inches apart. 
Melons .— Keep well cultivated, and remove all 
fruit which sets too late to ripen. 
Onions .—If there is a near market, it will often 
pay better to send in the green onions in bunches 
than to wait until ripe. Keep free from weeds. 
Peas .—Some of the early varieties may be planted 
as an experiment for a late crop. In most cases 
they mildew and become worthless. 
Seeds .—Unless one can save the earliest and the 
best, he had better depend upon the seedsmen. It 
is useless to take the earliest cucumbers, tomatoes,* 
etc., for the table, and then save seeds when these 
vegetables become plenty. It is better to set apart 
certain plants of these, and a row of peas and beans 
for seed; otherwise the variety will degenerate. 
Sweet Potatoes .—In garden culture the ridges can 
be kept clean by the use of a sharp steel rake. Do 
not allow the vines to take root. 
Squashes should be allowed to root at the joints, 
and the whole ground should be well manured. 
The black Squash-bug is best destroyed by hand- 
picking. The eggs, which are deposited on the un¬ 
der side of the leaves, can bo readily crushed. 
Tomatoes .—In garden culture it is best to give the 
vines some support, to keep the fruit from the 
ground. Rails may be supported upon crotchcd 
stakes, or a row of brush may be placed for them. 
When the trouble can be taken, it is a very neat 
way to make a wire trellis and train the vines to it. 
Weeds in these hot days die readily if once up¬ 
rooted. Keep some kind of weeding implement 
constantly at work between the rows. 
Flower Garden and SLsswis. 
Lawns , if frequently cut, will keep velvety. Root 
out all coarse weeds as soon as they are discovered. 
Keep the margins, where they border on a road or 
path, neatly trimmed. 
Climbers. —See that those whieh need the atten¬ 
tion are properly tied to the trellis. Do not allow 
the new growth of climbing roses to become , 
cramped and distorted, as it often will if it has to f 
struggle amongst the old stems. % 
Bulbs. —As soon as the foliage of tulips, etc., 
begins to wilt, lilt the bulbs and lay them under 
cover to ripen off; then store them in a cool, dry 
place until time to plant in fall. 
Gladiolus. —'Flic tall growing sorts will need 
stakes, and they are worth the trouble. 
Lilies. —Look out for the caterpillars which work 
at the underside of the leaves. Their presence is 
manifested by a transparent spot in the leaf. Hand¬ 
pick them. Stake those which need it. 
Coleus , now so much used for its ornamental fo¬ 
liage, should be kept dense and bushy. No plant 
bears cutting back more kindly. 
Annuals. —Transplant those large enough, and 
sow the quick growing ones for a late bloom. 
Perennials. —Sow the seeds as soon as ripe ; they 
germinate with greater certainty than if kept until 
spring, and the plants will usually become strong 
enough to bloom next year. 
Roses may be layered in p>ots of good compost 
sunk in the soil. This affords to the amateur a 
ready means of increasing his stock. 
Green-house an«l Window 1’lants. 
Plants out of doors should not be neglected. 
They often suffer for water, and some make a rapid 
growth that should be controlled-Camellias and 
other evergreens need shade from the hot sun. A 
lattice-work answers the purpose-Plants in the 
house will also need shading, either- by a muslin 
screen, or by whitewashing the glass-Thesooner 
the houses or heating apparatus are put in order, 
and all needed repairs made, the better. 
Indus!risil Exliihition in Cali lor- 
ilia.—The Mechanics Institute of San Francisco will 
hold an exhibition at that City, commencing on the 14th 
of Sept. next. All the world, including “ China, Japan, 
Hawaiian Islands, British Columbia, Mexico, Chili, and 
Peru,” has been invited to exhibit, and ft great limp 
may ho expected, $Jr. A. 6. Hailidie is the Pf,evident, 
