359 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST 
I 860 j 
ing of some good fertilizer of ashes, or of fine, rich 
compost, will tell at once as well as at harvesting. 
Soiling Crops .—Wheat and rye may both be sown 
for spring use, the ground being highly manured 
and a large quantity of seed being employed. 
Weeds should be mowed on wet days, gathered in 
heaps while wet, and when dry enough burnt. It 
is poor policy to put weed seeds into the manure, 
and if fed to hogs, a great portion of the seeds are 
not consumed. Hay seed, if not too dirty, may be 
mixed with swill to very good advantage. Biennial 
weeds are now expanding their bright green, vigor¬ 
ous leaves, making a fine growth. They may be 
seen in the mowing land, close to the ground, per¬ 
haps in part obscured by grass. It is not difficult 
to cut them up with a spud or with a heavy narrow 
hoe. Their name is legion, but some of the 
common ones are docks, dandelions, mulleins, ox- 
eye daisies, buttercups (which are perennial), wild 
teasel, golden-rod, wild parsnip, wild carrot, etc. 
Plowing. —We-know of only one crop which we 
think it is decidedly better to plow for in the 
spring; that is corn. For every other spring crop 
the plowing and manuring may be done in the 
autumn, except the soil be very sandy, in which 
case it is best to plow in the spring. Clays and 
wet soils are most benefited by fall plowing. On 
very stiff soil the advantage gained by exposure to 
the frost more than counterbalances the gain to 
corn by planting it on afresh-turned sod. 
Braining, etc.— As fast as hands can be spared 
from the essential labors of the farm, draining, road¬ 
making, fence-making, etc., may receive attention. 
It is safe to say that there are few farms in the 
country, where, upon some spots, draining, though 
quite expensive, would not pay better than any 
other investment. 
Muck .—Improve a dry season to dig swamp muck 
and store it for winter use in the stables, or use it 
in composts, if it can be got dry and fine enough. 
Manure .—Before cold weather sets in, all the 
manure in the yards and cellars should be hauled 
out and composted with muck, either in the field 
or elsewhere. These compost heaps, if well made, 
will not freeze, and no loss of valuable fertilizing 
substances will occur. In the spring they will come 
out fine and admirable for almost any purpose; 
and they may not only be of three or four times the 
bulk, but of three or four times the value, that the 
manure would have luid, had it been left in the 
yard, or even in the barn-cellar. 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
Orchard and Nursery. 
In many northern localities this month closes the 
season of out-of-door work. As not only have the 
crops to be gathered and stored, but provision to 
be made for early spring, October is of necessity 
a busy month in all departments. 
Fruit .—Pick the late varieties. All good fruit 
should be picked by hand and handled with care to 
avoid bruising. Place in the bins in the cellar or 
in barrels. 
Packing .—We have often insisted upon the ad¬ 
vantage of the careful assorting and packing of 
fruit. There is nothing connected with fruit raising 
that pays better. See an extract from Quinn’s Pear 
Culture, given last month. The directions given 
there for packing pears in the main apply to apples. 
Pack always from the bottom of the barrel, and 
then put in the bottom head with sufficient press¬ 
ure to hold the fruit so firmly that it will not shake. 
The fruit should be kept at the lowest possible tem¬ 
perature^ provided it does not freeze. The cellar 
should not he closed until the outside temperature 
makes it necessary. 
Pears .—The method of treating the late varieties 
is given on page 379. Put the autumn varieties 
intended for home consumption upon shelves in a 
cool fruit-room and inspect frequently. 
Cider and Vinegar .—The best use to make of infe¬ 
rior fruit is to convert it into vinegar. Good cider 
can be made only from good fruit. Much of the 
stuff called cider is poor trash. If the apples are 
allowed to “ sweat” in heaps for some time, they 
will lose a considerable amount of water and con¬ 
sequently yield a richer juice. It is better to put 
off cider-making until the approach of cold weather, 
as then the fermentation goes on more gradually, 
and a better article is the result. 
Planting .—Wherever fall planting is advisable, let 
it be done as soon as the trees can be had. If they 
have been ordered, plow and prepare the land, and 
place a stake to indicate the position of each tree. 
When they arrive, they can be put in without delay. 
Do not mix varieties, but put those of a kind in 
the same part of the orchard. The advantage of 
this will be seen when there is fruit to be gathered. 
Labels are attached to the trees at the nursery, 
and often are wired on so firmly that the bark is 
strangulated. Look to every label and see that no 
injury can result from this cause. The position of 
every tree should be recorded, so that when the 
labels become lost,as they will sooner or latter,there 
will be no doubt about the identity of the trees. 
Nursery Trees may be trimmed into shape, and, 
except on rich ground, a furrow should be run be¬ 
tween the rows and manure placed in this, and cov¬ 
ered. Trees budded this season will need looking 
after to see if the tyings do not need loosening. 
PpiiU Garden. 
Grapes should be allowed to get thoroughly ripe, 
whether they are to be eaten upon the table, pi e- 
served for winter, or made into wine. When the 
fruit is fully ripe, the stalk which holds the bunch 
loses its stiffness, and the cluster hangs directly 
down from the vine. An article on keeping grapes 
will be found on page 378. 
Strawberries .—If the runners have been rooted 
in pots, the plants may be set out in beds. 
Blackberries and Raspberries may be planted. Cut 
the canes of the plants back to the ground, when 
they are set, no matter how long a stalk the nur¬ 
seryman may have sent. Blackberries are usually 
set 6 to 8 feet apart, each way. Planting m hedges 
is gaining in favor—the rows 8 feet apart, and the 
plants 4 feet apart in the rows. The rows of rasp¬ 
berries may be 6 feet apart. 
Currant-sand Gooseberries .—Prune when the leaves 
have fallen. The amateur is likely to prune too 
little, rather ban too much. Make the bush so 
open by cutting out the old wood that light and 
air can penetrate it. The new wood, the growth 
of last summer, is to be shortened one-half, if 
strong, and more than this, if the shoots are weak. 
These bushes may now be propagated by 
Cuttings , for which the new wood removed in 
pruning is used. Cut it in lengths of 6 inches and 
set it 4 inches apart in a trench, with one inch of 
the upper end above the surface. Press the soil 
firmly against the cuttings in filling the trench, and 
when the ground begins to freeze, cover with leaves. 
Kitchen Garden. 
Braining in most places is a necessity, and it can 
be advantageously done this month. Our frequent 
articles on farm drainage will give the necessary 
hints for garden work. 
Preparation for Spring in the way of plowing and 
manuring may be advantageously done on vacant 
lands. Stiff lands are much ameliorated by being 
thrown into ridges to weather during the winter, t 
Asparagus .—When the growth is over, which is 
shown by the tops turning yellow, cut the stalks 
and burn them. If put into the manure heap, the 
seeds will produce troublesome weeds. 
Protection .—Plants left out through the winter, 
such as spinach, sprouts, etc., must not be covered 
before the ground begins to freeze. 
Preserving Root Crops .—Have bins in the cellars, 
barrels, etc., ready for storing, as* sudden cold 
weather may make it necessary to hasten the work. 
Pits 3 or 4 feet wide and 6 feet deep preserve roots 
admirably. A section 2 feet in length is packed 
with loots, 6 inches from that another section of 
2 feet, and so on. The six-inch spaces are filled 
with earth, and the trench, when filled, presents 
alternate sections of roots and earth. Some litter 
is thrown over the top, and when freezing weather 
comes, the trench is covered with earth. This must 
be done in a place where water will not settle. 
Cabbages .—Prepare cold frames for wintering the 
young plants from seeds sown last month. The 
frames are a foot high at the back and 8 inches in 
front, and wide enough for an ordinary sash. Set 
the plants 2J£ inches apart each way, and down to 
the leaves, covering all the stem. They do not 
need covering until freezing weather. 
Cauliflowers are treated the same as cabbages. 
Celery .—Finish earthing up, banking the earth 
well up against the stalks, nearly to the top of the 
leaves. In cold localities it may be stored in 
t renches the latter part of the month. 
Lettuce .—Some of the hardy kinds will winter 
over in the open ground, with a light covering of 
litter or leaves. That intended for early spring is 
to be put into cold frames, as directed for cabbages. 
Rhubarb .—If new plantations are needed, it is 
better to make them in the fall than in spring. 
After the leaves are dead, cut up the old roots so 
as to have a bud to each piece, and plant in a rich 
spot. It can hardly be too heavily manured. 
Spinach .—Cultivate the late crop, and thin. 
Squashes .—Cut before they arc injured by frost, 
and leave for two days in the sun. Place them in 
a cool, dry place, where there, will be no danger of 
freezing. In handling them, great care must be 
observed, as the least bruise leads to decay. 
Sweet Potatoes .—Dig as soon as the first frost wilts 
the vines. Choose a warm, bright day for digging, 
and allow them to lie in the sun to dry. In pack¬ 
ing - those to be kept for winter, use perfectly dry 
leaves, cut straw, or sand. Handle with the great¬ 
est care, so as not to bruise them. It is essential 
that the temperature should not be below 60° in the 
room where the potatoes are stored for the winter. 
Flower Garden an<l Law it. 
Whatever improvements arc to be made, such as 
laying out walks and drives, grading, draining, and 
making borders, can be much better done now while 
the ground is in good condition than in spring. 
House Plants that have been put into the borders 
should be taken up at once, if it is desired to keep 
them another season. The overgrown ones should 
be well cat back. Shade them for a few days, until 
they recover, and then give them a good exposure 
until it is necessary to remove them to the house. 
Cannas must be taken up before the frost has 
killed the foliage; otherwise the roots are apt to rot. 
Chrysanthemums .—When the buds are well formed, 
pot for blooming indoors. Sec that those left out 
are well supported by stakes. 
Becomes arc best removed this month, and the old 
roots may be divided. 
Perennials, if they have been in oneplace for three 
or four years, should be taken up, divided, and reset. 
Bulbs .-—The hardy kinds, such as Tulips, Hya¬ 
cinths, Crocuses, Crown Imperials, etc., are to be 
planted as soon as they can be obtained. See article 
on p. 377. The tender varieties, like Gladiolus, 
Tiger-flowers, etc., are to be taken up after the early 
frosts, dried off, and stored in a cool, dry place, 
where they will not freeze. 
Balilias .—After the foliage is killed, dig the roots 
on a warm, sunny day, using care, as they are very 
easily broken. When dry, label securely, and store 
in a dry cellar. 
Trees and Shrubs .—Set all the deciduous ones, 
whether as single specimens or for hedges. 
Protection .—Collect materials for covering half- 
hardy shrubs and plants. Where red cedar is abund¬ 
ant, it will be found one of the best materials. 
Near the coast, salt hay is much used. Leaves from 
the lawn and forest are valuable. It is a great mis¬ 
take to put on the covering too early. Not only 
tender plants, but hardy perennials, come out all 
the better in spring for a protecting covering. 
