1866 .] 
AMERICAN ACRICULTURIST, 
307 
should not get fat. Beef stock, which are to be 
finished off for market during the fall and winter, 
should have an increase of feed. 
Hogs for fattening should be penned and fed old 
corn, ground and cooked. Let the pigs have the 
run of the orchards. “ Taming ” hogs by cutting 
a gash across the snout close to the rooting gristle, 
BO as to make it powerless, is better than putting 
rings in their noses, and much more easily done. 
/SAe<23.—Give good pasturage with water, salt and 
shelter from long storms. Fattening sheep should 
be making flesh fast, and “ stores” kept improving. 
Manure. —Collffct all kinds of waste vegetable 
matter for increasing the manure heap ; put into it 
no weeds having seeds. The hogs will work over 
an immense amount of weeds, sods, potato tops, 
etc., and convert the whole into excellent manure. 
An old farmer used to say, “ he would give more 
for a cob that a hog had breathed on than for a 
shovelful of yard manure.” The bulk and quality 
of hog manure, or any other kind, are greatly in¬ 
creased by having it all under cover. 
Mwk and Peai.—Secure as much as possible for 
use in mingling with manure, or under the stock 
in the stables this winter. Compost it with lime, 
if it be not now in a crumbly condition, for it 
should be dry and fine. Get out as much as you 
can, and leave it exposed for the action of the frost 
in winter. This is work for the whole autumn 
and winter when It can be done. 
Orchard and Nursery. 
Whoever sends fruit to a distant market, is 
obliged to pack it in barrels, baskets, or crates. It 
would pay those who dispose of the products of 
their orchards near home to take more pains than 
is usual. In our large towns and villages it is a 
common thing to see the body of a wagon without 
springs, filled with apples, pears and peaches, to be 
peddled out with no more care than potatoes. If 
those who dispose of only a moderate amount each 
year will place their fruit in bushel baskets or 
crates, and put in only good fruit, they will get an 
increased price that will in a short time more than 
pay for the packages. Fruit is too great a blessing 
to be treated in the careless way we often see. 
Fruit should be picked, especially if to go to a 
distance, while yet firm, but still fully developed. 
The old peach basket is now replaced by slatted 
crates, with two compartments of bushel each. 
Dried Fruit. —Commence with the autumn apples 
and peaches. If the sun is depended upon, take 
pains to keep bees and flies away. It is better to 
have some kind of a dry house. One was described 
in June last.. A room kept hot by a stove will 
answer better than no drying apparatus. 
Btidding is to be continued with all varieties, in 
which the stock and bud are in proper condition. 
See directions given in July. Look to those bud¬ 
ded earlier, and if the bud has taken, loosen the 
bandage. If the first attempt has failed and the 
bark of the stock will lift, it may be rebudded. 
Nameless Fruits. —A fruit without a name is much 
less valuable than if it had one. In almost every 
orchard there are more or less varieties of which 
the name is lost. lu such cases, instead of invent¬ 
ing a name, as is too often done, take good speci¬ 
mens to the fair, or to some competent pomologist, 
and get the correct name. 
Labels will be needed to mark rows as they are 
budded in the nursery, and to label trees as they 
are sent out or are set this autumn. These can be 
made on rainy days, or may be ordered of those 
who make them by machinery. 
Flanting. —If trees are to be set in autumn, do it 
early. Draining, manuring and plowing may be 
done this month. Select the varieties and order 
trees early. Attend all the fairs and pomological 
meetings, and learn the local success of varieties. 
Seeds. —Gather seeds of trees aud shrubs as they 
ripen. Pits of peaches and plums are best if not 
allowed to dry. Bury them iu earth or sand. 
Insects. —Wind-falls should be picked up and 
given to swine, and thus destroy the grub within 
them. Pick off cocoons and all kinds of nests as 
soon as discovered. Borers, in working their way 
into the trunk, often show their tracks in the form 
of saw-dust or borings. When a borer is once in, 
use a knife and a wire or whale-bone probe and 
crush him, but it is best to prevent its going in by 
some of the appliances recommended in May last. 
Weeds. —Keep the nursery rows clean by use of 
the plow and cultivator. 
Kitchen Garden. 
As soon as a crop of anything is off, gather up 
the rubbish and take it to the compost heap, or 
feed it to animals, if suitable. Leave no cleaning 
up until spring, which may be done in autumn. 
Beans. —Limas are to be shelled and dried for next 
winter’s succotash, and string beans, prepared as 
for cooking, are to be packed down in kegs or jars 
with alternate layers of salt and beans. 
Cabbages and Catdijlowers. —The only way to get 
them early is to keep plants over winter in cold 
frames. Seed of the early sorts may be sown in 
the open ground this month, to furnish plants for 
this purpose. Keep the late crop well hoed, and if 
slugs appear dust with lime. 
Corn. —Dry for winter. Save best ears for seed. 
When early sorts are gathered, remove the stalks. 
Cucumbers. —Those for pickles need picking every 
day, or they will get too large—put them in brine 
strong enough to float an egg. 
Celery. —Earth up, whether growing in trenches 
or on the surface. In earthing up bring the stalks 
together with the hand, and keep the earth out of 
the “ heart ” of the plant. 
Endive.—LLoa growing plants, and when they are 
a foot across blanch them. Any way that will ex¬ 
clude the light and not stop the growth of the cen¬ 
tral leaves, will answer. The old way is to tie up 
the outer leaves over the center; another is to 
gather and cover with a flower pot. The usual 
plan in market gardens is to cover it with a mat. 
Kale. —Sow hardy variety, called German Greens. 
Manure. —The compost heap should increase from 
the abundance of garden refuse. Act on what has 
been said in this and previous numbers upon 
utilizing the contents of privies. 
Melons. —Turn to ripeu both sides. When fit to 
plack,f he stem parts with a slight pulL Put the fruit 
on ice for a few hours, before it is sent to the table. 
Onions. —When the tops fall down, harvest them. 
Let them dry thoroughly before storing and spread 
them thinly in a cool dry place. 
Badish. —Sow the Chinese Rose Colored Winter 
early this month. It will keep all winter. 
Spinach. —Sow in drills 1.5 inches apart, aud thin 
and weed as soon as the plants are large enough. 
Sweet Botatoes. —Some of the larger roots may be 
carefully taken out, and smaller ones left to grow. 
Squashes. —Keep on the lookout for insects. Al¬ 
low the vines to root at the joints. The Hubbard, 
when green, is better than any summer squash. 
Tomatoes. —Cut away superfluous growth. The 
larva of the Hawk-moth, a large green “ worm,” 
will be abundant this montii, and it makes a clean 
sweep of leaves and fruit. Its presence is betrayed 
by its droppings. When these are seen, seareh for 
the enemy. Preserve plenty of tomatoes in bottles 
and jars for winter, and make catsup. 
Turnips. —Sow the round sorts early in good soil. 
Give Ruta-bagas frequent hoeing. 
Winter Cherry. —The hulls turn yellow when 
they are ripe; gather and keep in a dry place. They 
make a most excellent sweet-meat, and are often 
called strawberry tomato, from their fruity flavor. 
Weeds. —Let none seed in out of the way corners. 
Fruit Garden. 
The suggestions as to preparing for autumn 
planting, about insects, weeds, etc., under Orehard 
and Nursery, apply equally to the Fruit Garden. 
Blackberries. —The strong shoots for next year’s 
fruiting should be shortened at the hight of 4 to 6 
feet. This will cause fruit branches to be thrown 
out, whieh may also be stopped if making a very 
rampant growth. Remove old canes when the fruit 
is off. Two or three canes .are enough to a stool. 
Grapes. —As the early varieties ripen, the birds 
will find it out. We believe nothing short of 
powder and shot is found effectual in keeping them 
away. It is a hard remedy, but the choiee lies 
between that and no grapes. The fruit may be 
sent to a near market in shallow boxes, about six 
inehes deep. Pick with a long stem and handle 
cjirefully, so as not to injure the bloom. See p. 323. 
Enough was said on mildew in previous months. 
Fears are to be gathered as soon as ripe and be¬ 
fore they mellow. A little experience will determine 
when to pick. If taken from the tree too early, 
they will shrivel instead of ripening. Spread upon 
shelves in the fruit room to ripeu. 
Raspberries. —Keep the soil free of weeds, and 
allow only two or three canes to grow to the stool. 
Remove the old wood, if not already done. 
Strawberries. —Early this month is the best time 
for autumn planting. For culture see last month. 
Flower Garden and Fawn. 
The cool nights, and less severe heat of the d.ays, 
will allow manj" things that were burned in mid¬ 
summer to take a new start; the garden should now 
be brilliant with these and late blooming varieties. 
Bidbs .—Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, etc., should 
be purchased as soon as the dealers offer their 
stocks, .as the best ones are soon disposed of. Set 
them the last of this or early next mouth. 
Bedding Hants. —As a general thing it is much 
better to st.art new pkants from cuttings, or layers, 
than to take up old ones. Yet there are some 
shrubby ones, as Lantanas, Fuchsias and Helio¬ 
tropes, that it is desirable to keep. They should 
be potted before the weather gets too cool. 
Chrysanthemums. —Do not allow them to become 
too crowded; thin out the weaker shoots. They 
are very line for house decoration, and last a long 
time in flower in a cool room. Some for flower¬ 
ing in-doors may be potted this month. 
Dahlias. —Cut out all imperfect buds, and remove 
flowers as soon as they begin to wane. Continue 
to stake and tie whenever needed, else a strong 
wind will make short work of the plants. 
Lawns. —Pull out coarse weeds, re-seed bare 
places, and give an occasional mowing. 
Perennials and Biennials. —If seed be sown early 
this month, plants will be h.ad strong enough to 
winter over and bloom next year—Columbines, 
Campanulas, Lackspurs, Pentstemons, Phloxes, etc. 
Ihts. —A flower pit will allow of saving many 
half hardy plants. A pit 6 feet deep, with the sides 
boarded up and covered with sash, and shutters, 
will answer as well as a more expensive structure. 
It should be well drained and the mice kept out. 
Seeds. —Save from the best and earliest flowers, 
and label as soon as gathered. 
Violets. —To have them early in spring, they 
should be set in a frame early this month. A com¬ 
mon plank frame With sash, is set in a sheltered aud 
well drained piace, on well m.anured fine soil. Set 
out the violets, and keep the sash off until frosts 
come. Tlien cover the plants lightly with leaves, 
and put ou the sash and cover with mats on cold 
nights. They may be started into bloom at any 
time after midwinter, by removing the leaves and 
giving them plenty of sun. 
Gii *ccia and I!oi-lIon§c§. 
If repairs, cleaning and painting have been put 
off until now, h.ave the houses made ready at once, 
as they may suddenly need to be occupied. Indeed 
many of the more tender plants had better go in 
this month at any rate. 
Sow Annuals .and plant Cape bulbs, Oxalis, etc., 
for winter blooming- 
Callas. —Divide and repot. It is always well to 
have an abundance of tiiem; tliey are so useful in 
decorating the green-house or dwelling. 
