1806 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
383 
the very high price which butter brings. Wc 
heartily wish farmers could realize the retail prices 
asked in the cities and large towns for their pro¬ 
ducts—butter 65 cents per pound—think of it; get 
it if you cau—though 35 cents will pay. Examine 
hay for evidence of ergotized seed (grown three or 
four times its natural size—the effect of a disease). 
This probably is the cause of abortion in cows, 
which has been so disastrous in many sections of 
late years. Any cow that is ailing in the least, 
should be removed from others. If one of a herd 
slinks her calf, three or four may follow suit, and 
probably will. Filthy stables provoke abortion. 
Young Sioclc of all kinds should be kept vigor¬ 
ous!}' growing all winter. Warm dry yards, sheds 
or stables, some grain or roots, and plenty of fresh 
w'ater and salt, with regular care, will ensure thrift 
and much better sized animals than if the winter 
treatment checks their growth, as is usually the 
case. Their manure will be worth something, too. 
S7ieep. —If sheep are in poor condition now, they 
must be gradually brought up; feed oats in the 
sheaf, a few daily, and some roots and good hay. 
When grass fails, hemlock boughs once or twice a 
week are good. Let all have the range of dry yards 
or fields, and warm sheds well ventilated. The 
l^eriod of gestation in ewes is about 5 mouths, (152 
days,) and a flock in good order is rarely served in 
less than 3 to 5 weeks. If sheep put up to fat at 
this season, sell in February, March, or April for 
enough to pay their present value, and for all the 
grain fed to them, there is a profit. Their manure 
will be full pay in many places. 
Hogs. —Watch the pork market, and if there is a 
certainty of taking advantage of high prices before 
the general killing takes place, do so, otherwise 
compiete the fattening. If nowhere else, there 
is at least a large gain in the manure heap. 
Refer to articles on hog killing in the January 
number (p. 12). In killing ail squealing and fighting 
is stopped by shooting a wooden plug into the 
head between the eyes, easily done, and a most 
humane practice; use very little powder. Feed on¬ 
ly cooked or soaked food; ground if possible. 
Poultry. —See article on fattening fowls. It is 
cqtiaily applicabie to other poultry. For ducks for 
your own table, feed meal scalded and mixed with 
celery leaves chopped fine, for 2 or 3 weeks before 
killing. It gives them the flavor of canvas-backs. 
In warm, light houses, spring pullets lay all winter 
Manure. —The value of the manure of animals 
stands in direct relationship to the value of the 
food they eat. Poultry have the richest food ; men 
next, hogs next, fattening cattle, horses, sheep, 
cows and growing stock follow in about this order. 
The feed of well fed beeves is usualiy richer than 
that of horses, and so is that of fattening sheep 
sometimes, but this varies. Here, however, is a 
true measure of the value of the droppings, and of 
the care that should be taken of each kind. The 
farmer’s business is to make manure just as much 
as it is to make money, and he should do it first by 
saving. Hen-dung is easily saved by making the 
birds roost over a floor sprinkled with earth, 
which is swept up and freshly earthed every week. 
Calculate to have X manure and % earth. Save 
the next on the list on precisely the same princiijle 
—that is, mingling it with % its bulk of dry fine 
soil, but do it every day or two.—See the box, etc., 
figured on page 319.—Hog manure is saved and pre¬ 
served by mixing it with earthy or vegetabie mat¬ 
ters, anything that wili decay, but especially articles 
soft, iiorous and bulky, as weeds, sods, bogs, peat, 
etc. The droppings of horses arc very profitably 
added cither to the manure of the sty, or mixed 
■with that of neat stock, especially to that of young 
cattle and cows, which is thus brought up to a 
higher standard. Manure of all other kinds is 
kept and improved by admixture of straw, leaves, 
etc., and especially by being laid up in heaps over 
beds of r.ails, so that the liquor which leaches from 
it naturally, or after being pumped on, may be re¬ 
turned and pumped over it again. Where this can 
not be done, it should be mixed with sods, dry 
peat, or mude, or even simple soil, and laid in a 
compost heap as fast as it accumulates. The ma¬ 
nure harvest is from November to May. 
Plowing. —By all means do as much plowing this 
fall as possible. Use a plow that will lay a furrow 
as flat as a floor. Plow in manure deep for corn, 
potatoes and root crops, but not for small grains. 
Leave no manure on the surfiice, except fine com¬ 
posts that may be harrowed in. Land is well pre¬ 
pared in this way for seeding in spring to clover 
or grass without an accompanying grain crop. 
Grain Fields. —Prevent -svater standing anywhere 
on winter grain or young grass, by 
Surface Brains. —Make surface water courses to 
conduct off W'ater from spots where it may wash 
.and do damage, by cutting channels or by bringing 
on dirt or gi'avel. Continue 
Under-draining also, as long as the gi'ound is not 
frozen hard. Laborers are easier got in November 
than at most other times. The ditches must be 
well filled, and the earth pounded down, or the 
water will wash them out in the spring. 
Wood. —See article on splitting. It is a good 
time now to gather the “ down stuff” in the wood 
lot, which is useful for light quick fires. 
Oi’cliard a.iad IViii'scry. 
When we advocate autumn ifianting, wc do not 
mean to advise planting in winter. In general, the 
present month is too late to plant, and it is much 
better to hcel-in the trees, received thus late, than 
to set them. Trees properly planted will not need 
stakes, but if it must be done to save a weak or in¬ 
jured one, a single stake with a twisted straw rope, 
as described in April, 1863, will be best. See page 
399 for protecting young trees during winter. 
Cider Slaking still continues. Good, sound, and 
clean apples, absolute cleanliness of the casks and 
every thing used in the process, are essential to the 
production of the best article. If wliat the Ger¬ 
mans call apple wine (Apfel-Wcln) be desired, foi- 
low directions for grape juice in Sept, page 325. 
Cellars. —Close up only when there is danger of 
freezing. Fruit should be kept at a uniform low 
temperature—as low as it can be without injury. 
The changes that go on in ripening fruit, generate 
heat, and this shouid be borne in mind. They also 
cause the liberation of injurious gases, and when 
fruit is stored in celiars under dwellings, ventila¬ 
tion should be provided. An opening into the flue 
of a chimney is as good .as any other 
Cions may be cut at any time after vegetation has 
ceased. Seicct this year’s shoots w'ith short joints, 
tie in bundles, label carefully, and keep cool and 
from drying. Damp sand or e.arth will do, but saw¬ 
dust is better, as it will not inj urc the grafter’s knife. 
Labels. —Trees from the nursery often h.ave the 
labels closely wired to a limb; these should be 
loosened, or what is better, taken off altogether, 
and have the small copper wire replaced by one of 
lead or by a leather strap. Have every tree la¬ 
belled for convenient reference, and so recorded 
as to le.ave no possibility of losing the name. 
Manure can be put upon the orchard at any time 
after the ground is frozen. Manure the whole sur¬ 
face, and do not make a mound around the trunk. 
Slocks must be taken up before the ground freezes. 
Those intended for root-grafting are to be assorted, 
tied in bundles and packed in the cellar in sawdust. 
Take up all apple and pear stocks, and preserve 
those too small to graft, to set again next year. 
Seedlings generally have a hard time of it the first 
winter. Leaves and the boughs of cedar and 
other evergreens make a good protection. 
Cuttings., if the ground is open, may be set. See 
article on cuttings in October, page 364. 
Kitclicn Garden. 
Whenever the ground is open, something maybe 
done to help along next spring’s w'ork. See last 
mouth for suggestions about manures. Clear up 
all rubbish, lay drains, and do all preparatory work 
whenever the weather will allow. 
Pits for Vegetables, made as directed in October, 
page 362, will need a gradual covering; or, if the 
roots have been put in heaps, pits may yet be made. 
Cabbages. —Plants in cold frames arc to be fully 
exposed every mild day. Take in tlie late crop, as 
directed last month. Cattle relish the loose leaves. 
Celery should never be put in too soon, it will 
stand light frosts, but should not be thoroughly 
frozen. Sec last month’s directions for wintering. 
lIorse-radish.—T>\g and cover in pits, as directed 
for other roots. Save small roots to set next year. 
Hot-beds. —If not alread}' done, procure a lot of 
good soil and put under cover, or cover with boards. 
Parsnips and Salsify may be dug whenever the 
ground is open, but it is best to have a supply for 
use in cold weather preserved in sand in the cellar. 
Rhubarb. —Whenever the ground is open, new 
beds may be made, by dividing the old roots, tak¬ 
ing care to keep an eye or bud with each, and set¬ 
ting deeply in richly manured soil. 
Spinach. —Cover with straw or leaves. 
Fraait Garden. 
The general directions of last month may be fol¬ 
lowed wherever they will apply. In locations 
where the climate will admit of it, planting of 
dw.arf trees, blackberries, currants, etc., may con¬ 
tinue. Manure as directed under orchard. 
Figs Trees are to be laid down and covered with 
earth, or if there is danger from much water, take 
up with a large b.all of earth and put in the cellar. 
Grape Vmes. —Prune as soon as the leaves are off 
—this is when to prune. IIow to prune will de¬ 
pend upon the vine and the person’s knowledge of 
its manner of growth. We can only give general 
directions. Look at your vine now that it is di¬ 
vested of leaves. All that is seen of the wood of 
the present year’s growth, has borne and done its 
duty. The buds upon the canes, that now look so 
insignificant, are next spring to throw out vigorous 
shoots and bear fruit. If all the buds ar left, there 
will be many weak shoots and little fruit. II this 
year’s shoots are cut back to two or three buds, 
these remaining buds will push out vigorous shoots 
and produce much better fruit than if the vine had 
been allowed to run wild. Have this in mind 
whenever the vine is pruned—the buds, and not the 
wood now on the vine, are to produce the fruit. 
Prune understanding!}'. We h.ave given full direc¬ 
tions with engravings in previous numbers. 
Grapes may be preserved a long time, if put in 
boxes and kept at an even low temperature. The 
Catawba and Diana are the best keepers. Grapes 
with a tender skin, th.at breaks at the least pres¬ 
sure, are not good for keeping. 
Pears. —The winter sorts are to be kept as here¬ 
tofore recommended for winter apples. Keep them 
cool until the time of their ripening, and then 
bring them into a warm room. 
Raspberries. —Tender kinds are to be bent down 
and covered with earth. If the old canes have 
not been cut out, do it at the time of laying down. 
Strawberries.—There is no need of covering until 
the ground is crusted. The object of covering is, 
to avoid alternate freezing and thawing. Too much 
covering, provided it smothers the plants, is worse 
than none at all. 
Flower Garden and Fawiii. 
All work here will be governed by the character 
of the season. In flue weather, grading, making new 
w'alks, new borders, etc., may be carried on. It is 
weli to compare the views, after the leaves have 
fallen, with those of midsummer, and observe where 
pleasing views may be opened by removing the 
trees, and note the unplcas.ant objects that may be 
shut out by judicious planting. Clean up all rub¬ 
bish. Cover tender plants and put everything need¬ 
ing it into winter quarters by the end of the month. 
Bulbs. —Take up Gladioius, Tuberoses, Tiger- 
flowers, etc., before hard frosts. Dry them off and 
then put in paper in a dry place, where mice 
will not reach them. If the ground isopen, put 
out spring flowering bulbs. Hyacinths, Tulips, etc^ 
