1875 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
173 
lb., 8e ; 1 doz. screws, f in., 35c. per gross, 3c. ; la¬ 
bor putting in pockets, pulleys, etc., 20c.—Total 95 
cents., and when once done, will need no further 
attention or expense, while the house lasts. The 
-satisfaction of having neat fitting, easy working 
sash, where the upper, or lower one, may be opened 
at will, is great. The saving of little fingers, and 
older nerves, to say nothing of shattered sash and 
glass, more than repays the extra cost of hanging 
sash.... The front, rear, and parlor DOORS are 2 ft. 
8 in. x 6 ft.8 in. x li in.; other first story doors, 2 ft. 
6 in. x 6 ft. 8 in. x li in. ; second story doors, 2 ft. 
6 in. x 6 ft. 6 in. x li in. ; all 4-paneled, and neatly 
molded. The li inch doors have mortice locks; 
other doors rim locks, all with porcelain knobs and 
escutcheons... .BLINDS are included for the first 
and second stories, in the estimate appended, at an 
average cost of $2.40 per pair, and may be omitted 
—but are recommended as useful, for they protect 
the sash from storms, and can be operated to give 
almost any desired light or shade in the rooms.... 
Many people may be in circumstances that would 
justify the building of one part of a house first, to 
be occupied as a temporary residence until means 
and opportunity warrant the building of the whole. 
A newly married couple could arrange to have the 
kitchen part built as a residence for a season, rather 
than forego the opportunity of setting out trees, 
vines, and shrubbery, planting, and otherwise de¬ 
veloping their grounds. They would then be near 
the work when building the main part, to superin¬ 
tend it, and care for materials, saving much that is 
often wasted, or lost. The wing, or kitchen part, 
could be built at a cost of about $185, so arranged 
as that the main house could be joined to it at any 
time—or, what would be better, the main house 
may be built first, at a cost of about $650, and the 
kitchen added at convenience.The exterior 
dressing of cornice, window-caps, and stoop, are 
decided in their character for simplicity, and bold¬ 
ness, giving a generous and finished appearance to 
the whole_Novelty Sitliiag;, fig. 6, is men¬ 
tioned in the estimates for these houses, (see March 
No., p. 89.) This form of siding I first introduced 
some twelve years ago, since which time it has 
grown into general favor and use in this neighbor¬ 
hood. It has the following merits to recommend 
it: 1st, It is easily put on by ordinary mechanics. 
2d, When properly nailed to the frame, it strength¬ 
ens it, so as to make bracing of the frame almost 
unnecessary. 3d, The spaces between the studding, 
when the interior is plastered, are each air-tight 
compartments, containing only stationary air, which 
is a non-conductor of cold (or heat), thus protecting 
the inside wall from the extreme change of out¬ 
ward temperature. 4th, A cheaper quality of lum¬ 
ber can be used, the more cross-grained the materi¬ 
als, the less likely they are to check, or shrink, and 
any small, sound knots are easily covered with 
shellac before painting, which closes them effectu¬ 
ally. 5th, The general surface is even, so that any 
brackets or other ornamentation can be put on 
without the trouble and difficulty of “scribing” 
them up to the clap-boarding... .The !»» Is frag'Sins g- 
referred to in the estimate, is of 18-inch Pine Shin¬ 
gles, and may be laid 51 in. to the weather, and se¬ 
cured with large headed “ shingle nails.” It is best in 
laying shingles to lap at one-third the breadth, never 
in the center, for should one shingle check in the 
center, as they are liable to do, an opening is made 
through the three courses, and a leaky roof will be 
the result. “Shingling lath” li in. x 2 in., with 
the lower edge placed just where the butts of the 
shingles would cover, will allow air to freely circu¬ 
late on both sides of the shingles, and preserve 
them one-third longer than when laid on close 
planking, which holds the moisture, and assists de¬ 
cay of every part of the roof Cisitters. —The 
old wooden gutter has nearly gone into disuse, and 
always seemed a barrier to any satisfactory finish 
of cornice. It was difficult to get timber of suffici¬ 
ent width for projections, and in such cases the 
cornices were proportioned by boxing off, and 
building up around this “gutter stick,” which was 
bad construction—the outer edge of the gutter, be¬ 
ing higher than the edge next the house, would 
cause the water, during heavy storms, or when the 
leader was choked up, to flow over against the 
frame work of the building, which was one of the 
most frequent causes of decay and settling in 
the older houses in this country.—The tin-lined 
“box” and “trough” gutters are often trouble¬ 
some ; the tin cannot be laid in them except in long 
lengths, which have been soldered together while 
flat and smooth. To lay these long lengths into the 
ready-formed gutter, requires much bending and 
hammering, which breaks the best tin at the sol¬ 
dered joints, on the under-side, where it is impossi¬ 
ble to repair it, so that, while it may not appear at 
once to leak, it is sure to do so soon, to be discov¬ 
ered after the cornice has been swelled out of 
shape or destroyed. The gutter that I have adopt¬ 
ed in all eases where practicable, (see section, fig. 
5,) cither for shingles or slate, is made of charcoal 
tin, 14 inches wide, in lengths as long as can be 
well handled. One edge is turned or rolled up 
around a I iron rod, which makes a strong edge. 
Then a bend is made at 3s inches from the turned 
edge, forming a right angle the whole length. This 
is laid on the second course of shingles, with one 
end lower than the other, so as to give a good run 
for the water. The ends are turned up where re¬ 
quired, to Soop the water, and a tube put through 
the cornice in the usual manner... .For Tin 
BSoofs, having a pitch of at least one inch to the 
foot, the gutters are formed in a similar 
manner, with the flat or bottom part 
about i inch wide, making a flange 
which is soldered to the roof near the 
eaves, to a line drawn at an angle to 
make one end lower than the other, as 
for shingle roofs. This is the simplest 
and best kind of gutter, will outlast any 
other, aud in the event of a possible 
damage, or leakage, no harm will be 
done beyond the loss, or waste of the 
water that runs oil’ over the eaves. 
It can be easily repaired, or replaced at any time, 
without interfering with the principal roof, and 
it saves the trouble, and expense, of building and 
boxing for gutters, or of making cornices with spe¬ 
cial reference to them, audit is cheaply constructed. 
Estimate of Cost of building by this plan 
in the vicinity of New York City: 
38 yards Excavation, ® 20c. per yard. $ 7 00 
5,000 Brick, furnished and laid, @ $15 18 1000. . '" 75 00 
230 yards hath and Plastering, 3 coats, ® 35c. per yard 7o'o0 
^ 2^c. per loot. .3177 
1412 feet Timber, . 
viz. 1 Sill, 3x8 in. x32 fi. long. 
4 Posts, 4x6 in. x21 ft. long. 
2 Plates, 4x6 in. x 19 ft. long. 
2 Plates, 4x6 in. x 12 ft. long. 
10 Beams. 3x7 in. xl2 ft. long. 
1 Locust Post, 4 inch. 
1 Girt, 4x8 in. xl2 ft. long. 
2 'l ies, 4x6 in. xlO ft. lung. 
2 Ties, 4x6 in. xl9 ft. long. 
18Beams,3x8in. XIOft. l’g. 
220 Wall Strips, 2x4 inches xl3 feet long, @ 16c 35 °o 
160 Novelty Siding Boards, 9Jf inches, @ 38c.. '' 60 80 
SO Rehated Siding, inches, @ 38c. " u '40 
92 feet Cornice Materials. . ic’nn 
100 Shingling Lath, @ 6c.]. [j'ojj 
16 bunches shingles,® $2.25.. gj'oo 
Tin Gutters and Leaders. . m 00 
90 tongued and grooved Flooring, 9 y 3 inches, @35c.’3U5U 
8 Windows with Blinds, @$8. 64 00 
3 Cellar Windows, plain, @ $3.. .. . 9 no 
2 Stoop Materials.. ;>()'oo 
Stairs, 1st story and cellar. . r>0 00 
12 Donrs and materials. 4 g 00 
Carpenter’s Labor (not included above).!!!!!!”!.U 0 00 
Painting, two coats.. " 50 00 
Cartage, average one mile...!'!!!!"!! 15.00 
Extras, lor Base, Sink, Pump, and Nails, etc ..... ’ 52.88 
Total cost of materials and construction.tSOO.OO 
- Ml ■«. —- 
The Trophy in France. —Though the writer 
sent seeds of the Trophy tomato to France the first 
year it was offered here, we have seen no notice of 
it until recently. M. Bossin, the high authority 
upon garden vegetables, says in th a Revue ITorticole, 
“ This Tomato appears so good that we believe it 
to be our duty to give it particular mention as an 
* alimentary and condimentary ’ plant. ” Europeans 
