1875.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST 
Attend to this matter before breakfast every morn¬ 
ing, and if Paris Green must be used, sprinkle it 
while the dew is on the leaves, (see article on this 
subject last month, on page 236). 
Summer Fallows .—As soon as a green tinge ap¬ 
pears on a summer-fallow, it needs attention. Go 
over it with the harrow or the cultivator. The 
surface should never be allowed to crust or bake 
over after a rain, for then the benefits of the air 
and moisture are lost. Growing weeds on a fallow 
to plow under, in the hope of gaining the green 
manure, may defeat one great object of the fallow. 
Some weeds ripen their seed before their blossom¬ 
ing is suspected, and a fresh crop of weeds is thus 
sown without knowing it. Where a crop of clover 
has been plowed in, do not disturb it by replowing. 
Work the soil with the cultivator or a Share’s har¬ 
row, or horse-hoe, and mix any fine manure with 
the surface soil. An oat or barley stubble intend¬ 
ed for wheat, should be plowed as soon as the crop 
is off, three or four inches deep, and this surface 
repeatedly rolled, harrowed, or cultivated, will pre¬ 
vent the under soil from becoming hard, and will 
act as a mulch. Then plow immediately before 
drilling the seed, and it will be easier and better 
than leaving the stubble to bake and harden. 
Buckwheat may be sown early this month, and if 
the soil is good, a seeding of grass and clover, will 
often make a good catch. Rough pieces of ground 
may thus be re-seeded economically. One bushel of 
seed to the acre is ample. The grey buckwheat is 
the best for flour. The variety known as Indian 
wheat is only suitable for stock feed, and scarcely 
fit for that, where better varieties may be grown. 
Forage Crops .—Com may still be planted for fod¬ 
der. Ruta bagas and yellow Aberdeen turnips, 
should be sown immediately. White turnips may 
be left until early next month. Millet or Hungarian 
grass, may be sown now for a crop of hay. 
Sorghum thickly sown in drills two feet apart, makes 
valuable fodder to use green, but it is hard to 
cure. 200 lbs. of guano or blood manure per acre, 
will enable late fodder crops to push rapidly. 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
Summer drouths have come earlier this season than 
Usual, and should they long continue, the propsect 
of good crops will be .small. These annual drouths, 
and the means of modifying them, have been 
much discussed of late. In hilly countries, where 
living springs are abundant, water may be easily 
turned aside, and made to irrigate the crops; in 
level sections, drive and other wells, from which 
the water is raised by wind-mills, and various 
other contrivances, may be used to advantage, and 
often with profit. In places where it may not pay 
for a farmer to irrigate his crops, the gardener, with 
his few acres from which he gets large returns, 
would find it profitable, especially if there are 
springs on higher ground than that to be irrigated. 
However dry it may be, weeds will grow rapidly, 
and constant care is necessary to keep them down, 
and the crops in good condition. 
Fruit Garden, 
Strawberries .—After the plants are through bear¬ 
ing the mulch should be removed, and the soil 
between the rows stirred, and weeded, and ma¬ 
nured ; if fine manure is not to be had, apply a 
good dressing of ground bone or other fertilizer. 
If new beds are to be set, let enough runners grow 
to furnish plants, and remove the rest. 
Grape Vines .—Tie up the young growth before 
it becomes too long, and gets broken by the wind ; 
rub off all useless shoots that start. For mildew 
apply sulphur with a bellows made for that pur¬ 
pose. Hand-pick the beetles and caterpillars which 
infest the vines. Make layers by burying the shoots 
in the soil when they become firm and woody, 
allowing the upper part to remain uncovered. 
Raspberries .—As soon as through bearing, cut out 
the old canes and tie up the new growth. Three 
or four new canes to a plant are enough. 
Currants and Gooseberries usually throw up vigor¬ 
ous shoots from the base of the plants; these, if 
not needed to take the place of old ones, should be 
cut out. Use powdered white hellebore for the 
worm which destroys the leaves. 
Blackberries .—The new growth which is to pro¬ 
duce fruit next season, should be tied to stakes, 
and kept in proper shape by pinching. Do not 
allow the stems to grow over five feet high, and the 
side shoots should be pinched back when they are 
18 inches long. Where plants appear between the 
rows, dig them out if not needed for new plantings. 
Thinning the fruit upon dwarf trees, is especially 
necessary, as they are liable to over-bear. This 
should be done soon after the fruit forms, so that 
the nourishment may be given to the remaining 
fruit. The quality of pears and peaches especially 
may be greatly increased by this treatment, 
Orchard and Nursery. 
But little can be done here beyond what was 
suggested in the notes given last month. Always 
refer to the notes of the previous month, as things 
are hinted at there, which are just as applicable at 
the present time, and are often more conveniently 
attended to later in the season. 
Marketing. —Crates, boxes, baskets, and barrels, 
should be provided for sending, fruit to market. 
These should all he marked with the owner’s name'' 
and address, and the fruit should be assorted and 
packed, that the dealers may know that it is first- 
class. All this will pay in the end, both in the 
increased price and demand, even in years when 
fruit is abundant. 
Pruning may yet be done, and this season is by 
many regarded as the bdst for cutting out large 
limbs, as the wounds heal rapidly. 
Budding is usually commenced this month, but 
the only safe rule is to do the work when good, 
well-formed buds may be had, and the bark of the 
stock will lift easily. 
Slugs which so disfigure pear and other trees, 
may be destroyed by dusting with powdered lime. 
Insects .—For destroying, or preventing their at¬ 
tacks, see notes under this head for last month. 
Grafts often grow so vigorously that there is dan¬ 
ger of their being broken by high winds. To 
prevent this, pinch the more rapid growing shoots. 
Kitchen Garden, 
Every available spot in the garden should be 
occupied with something, and succession crops 
must be planted, if a constant supply of vegetables 
is wanted for market or family use. Oftentimes 
two crops may be planted on the same ground to 
advantage, as lettuce between the rows of cab¬ 
bages ; the lettuce will be off in time to allow the 
cabbage all the room needed ; or horse-radish may 
be put in among early cabbages, to grow after they 
are off. If enough manure is supplied for both 
crops, this is found to be profitable practice. 
Beans .—When pole beans reach the top of the 
poles, they should be pinched. Bush sorts may be 
planted yet, and produce a good crop. Ground 
where early beans have been, may De planted with 
quick-growing crops. 
Beets .—Thin those already needing it, and plant 
early sorts for late use. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers .—Transplant for late 
crops this month, using only the most vigorous 
plants. There are many spots around every garden, 
where a few cabbages can be grown, and all such 
places should be occupied. If transplanting must 
be done during dry weather, the roots should be 
placed in a thin mud for a few minutes, until they 
are well coated with it; this requires but little 
time, and often saves many plants"." Hoe establish¬ 
ed plants as often as possible. 
Carrots .—Thin out as soon as large enough to 
handle, and keep the rows clear of weeds until the 
tops cover the ground and prevent working. Those 
which throw up a flower-stalk should be pulled out. 
Celery need not be planted out before the middle 
or end of July, and if the plants become well 
established, then they will grow rapidly when the 
weather becomes cooler. Market-growers always 
plant on level ground, and not in trenches, as the 
first is much the easier way. The dwarf or smaller 
growing kinds, are best for family use, but the 
larger growing sell best in most markets. 
Com. —Sow a few rows of the early sorts this 
month, so as to have some for late picking. As 
fast as the early sorts are exhausted, the stalks 
should be cut, and either fed to cattle fresh, or 
cured for winter fodder. 
Cucumbers. —If pickles are needed, plant now in 
well manured hills 4 feet apart each way. Where 
pickles are raised for the New York market, they 
must be sent in green, as it is impossible to sell 
those put down in salt to the pickle dealers, each 
company having its own way of salting, which is 
kept secret. Save the earliest and finest formed 
for seed ; careful selection of seed for a few years 
will produce a desirable strain. 
Egg-plants require a great degree of heat in order 
to grow rapidly, and if liquid manure is given oc¬ 
casionally, it will be a great help. Place hay or 
straw around the plants to keep the fruit from con¬ 
tact with the ground. 
Endive. —Sow for a late crop of salad now. 
Herbs are usually grown on land which has al¬ 
ready borne one crop during the season. When a 
damp day occurs the young plants may be trans¬ 
planted from the seed-bed to a rich spot prepared 
for them. Thyme, sweet marjoram, sage, and sum¬ 
mer savory are the sorts commonly grown. 
Leeks. —Thin out the plants to 5 or 6 inches in the 
rows, keep clear of weeds, and transplant the thin¬ 
nings to the same distance. 
Lettuce. —Set out plants in a cool shady spot. 
Melons. —Cultivate the ground as long as it can 
be done with safety to the plants; afterwards hand- 
pull the weeds as they appear above the vines. Re¬ 
move all fruit not likely to ripen. 
Onions when sold green in the market are made 
into neat bunches with the tops on, and bring a 
higher price than when loose and cut short. Keep 
the late crop free from weeds. 
Rhubarb. —As soon as fruit becomes plenty, 
the plants should have a rest. Keep the flower- 
stalks cut, and give a dressing of manure. 
Sweet Potatoes. —Keep free from weeds, and move 
the vines every week to keep them from rooting. 
Turnips. —Thin and weed the late plantings until 
the tops cover the ground. 
Tomatoes. —Tie up to stakes or trellises to keep 
the fruit from the ground. Cut out the weak 
shoots and pinch back strong growing ones. Des¬ 
troy the large green caterpillar or “worm,” as it 
eats both plant and young fruit. 
--»- 
Flower LJarslem Lawn. 
In order to have a fine garden and lawn, every¬ 
thing must be kept neat and in order, and to do 
this requires time and care, and to be done well 
must be a labor of love. 
Lawn. —This must be mowed every week if the 
weather is moist and favorable to growth ; during 
dry seasons once in ten days or a fortnight is 
enough. Dig or pull out all perennial weeds by the 
roots, the annual ones can be killed by mowing 
often enough to prevent seeding. 
Bedding Plants will grow luxuriantly at this sea¬ 
son, and must be kept clear of weeds. Plants grown 
for their foliage alone will often show flower- 
stalks ; these should be cut as soon as they appear. 
Seeds.— Gather as fast as they ripen, and sow the 
perennial sorts in shallow boxes placed in a conve¬ 
nient spot for watering and shading during dry 
times. Label as soon as gathered, otherwise it will 
be difficult to determine them. 
Walks. —Gravel walks and drives require water¬ 
ing and rolling during dry times, in order to keep 
them hard and smooth. Sifted coal-ashes mixed 
with coarse sand, with a little loam, make good 
walks; their use in this manner helps to get rid of 
the ashes; the coarser portions or cinders make 
good foundations for walks. 
