1875 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
421 
many others for which a temporary fence is wanted. 
It is very simply constructed. A panel is made of 
fence boards, in the ordinary manner, with two or 
three cross upright pieces, as the panel may be 
short or long. At the top of the fence holes are 
bored with a two-inch auger, in a somewhat sloping 
direction, to receive the stakes shown in the en¬ 
graving. These are sharpened at the end for about 
a foot, leaving a square shoulder to prevent them 
going too far through the holes. In placing the 
fence, the stakes (pointed at the lower ends) are 
driven into the ground in a sloping direction, the 
end3 being placed through the holes in the fence 
panels. The fence leans backwards from the field, 
and is prevented from slipping or being pushed 
forwards, by stout stakes driven in the ground in 
front, or by pegs driven through holes in the bot¬ 
tom of the uprights. If made five boards high, 
this fence will be dog proof, as a dog can not jump 
over it in the leaning position in which it is set up. 
■- a 
Pits for Storing Roots. 
When properly put away in pits, roots of all kinds 
keep better than when stored in cellars. The chief 
difficulties in the way of keeping roots in pits are the 
danger that frost will penetrate the covering, and 
the risk of heating for want of ventilation. By the 
use of the board coverings shown in the engravings, 
these difficulties may be with care wholly removed. 
The boards, (fig. 1), are made of a length to cover 
one side of the pit, and of such a width as to be 
handy and portable. Six feet square will be found 
a convenient size. The cheapest kind of boards 
will answer the purpose. These are cut into the 
required lengths and nailed to cross-pieces or cleats 
at least four or six inches wide, placed edge¬ 
wise, as shown in the engraving. When the roots 
are heaped in the usual manner, and covered with 
straw placed up and down on the heaps, the boards 
are laid on the straw so that they nearly meet on 
the top. A space of two inches is left, through 
which the ends of the straw may project. The 
straw is turned down over the edges of the hoards 
and so that they lie horizontally. There is then 
an air SDace of four to six inches besides the 
thickness of 6traw as a 
protection to the roots. 
Besides this there may 
be as thick a covering 
of earth thrown upon 
the boards as may be re¬ 
quired. In many places 
no earth will be need¬ 
ed, but it will always be 
useful in keeping the 
roots at an even tem¬ 
perature, and so low 
that they will not sprout 
or heat. If a covering 
of earth is put on, the 
projecting straw should 
be turned down on the 
opposite side to that on which it is laid, and the ends 
covered with earth. The extreme top of the heap 
need not be covered at all unless severe cold is ex¬ 
pected, when a few places may be left uncovered 
for ventilation. These boards will serve many other 
useful purposes about a farm. Two of them tacked 
together at the top will make an excellent covering 
and shelter for a hen-coop. In eaj-ly spring when 
late frosts are expected, they will furnish good 
coverings for tender plants, 
and when not in use they 
may make a temporary floor 
in an outhouse. At figure 
3 is shown a root-house for 
use in the open prairies, 
where shelter is scarce and 
the means of building are 
not abundant. An excava¬ 
tion is made in the ground 
six or seven feet deep, and 
as wide as may be suitable 
to the length of the poles 
with which it is to be cover¬ 
ed. Tho length will be ac¬ 
cording to the necessities of 
the builder. It is covered 
with rough poles, over which 
some coarse hay is thrown. 
The sod, which should be 
cut from the surface in strips 
with the plow and an ax, is 
then laid closely on the top, and earth is heaped 
over the sod. A man hole at one comer, or if it is a 
long cellar, in the middle, is built up, with small 
poles and about two feet high. A ladder or row of 
steps is made from this to the bottom. The man 
hole when not used is filled with straw or hay, 
which is thrown upon a loose door or boards rest¬ 
ing upon the logs, and a stone or log is laid upon 
the straw to keep it from being blown away. Open¬ 
ings may be made along the side opposite to the 
entrance through which the roots or potatoes may 
be shoveled or dumped, and these may be closed 
with sods and earth during the winter. 
- m m — - 
A Bladder for giving Injections. 
Fig. 3.— PRAIRIE BOOT-CELLAR. 
when the earth is th-rown on them. The boards 
are placed upon the straw, with the cleats down, 
To be able to give an injection to a horse at once 
may sometimes save the life of an animal. In some 
cases an injection is in 
every way preferable to 
physic. In colic an in¬ 
jection of soap and 
water, or of linseed oil, 
or, in case of worms, of 
salt and water, or of 
linseed oil and turpen¬ 
tine, may be much more 
effective than any other 
treatment. Almost any 
farmer may without ex¬ 
pense procure such an 
injection apparatus as is 
shown in the engraving. 
It consists of a hog’s 
bladder, which is large 
enough for any purpose, to which is fitted a piece 
of elderwood, from which the pith has been re- 
INJECTION BLADDER. 
moved. This nozzle is shaved down and sand-pa¬ 
pered until the surface is smooth, and the end is 
round and smooth without any sharp edge what¬ 
ever. The liquid to be used is poured into the 
bladder with a funnel, and is forced into the bow¬ 
els by gently squeezing the bladder. For small 
animals, such as sheep or pigs, a gutta percha tube 
would be useful, although with care a small piece 
of elder will answer. Before using the tube in any 
case, it should be well greased with pure lard. 
- ■— ■ o ■ »■ - 
To Prevent Sheep from Jumping. 
When a sheep takes to jumping fences, the habit 
must be cured, for it can not be endured. One 
breachy sheep infects the flock, and ruins all the 
rest. Sometimes a valuable sheep that can not well 
be spared, acquires this habit, and some plan other 
than making mutton of it must be adopted. A plan 
we have seen followed with success is to hang a 
light board around the neck by a broad strap. The 
board should be of such a size, and so hung, that 
it will strike against the sheep’s knees, when it 
tries to jump. If the 6heep that leads the flock in¬ 
to mischief, and there is generally but one incor¬ 
rigible leader, is thus treated, the trouble will he 
prevented. The shape of the board, and the man¬ 
ner of hanging it, are 6hown in the engraving. 
How to Cure a Split Hoof. 
In reply to many correspondents, we give the 
following engravings, illustrating two methods in 
use for repairing split 
hoofs. At the best the 
cure of a split hoof is 
slow and troublesome, 
because every motion 
itg- - i s. of the foot 
tends to 
Fig. 2. °P en the 
crack, 
which can only be 
closed by a new growth 
from the coronet. At 
every opening the new 
growth is ruptured, and 
a new beginning has to 
be made. The only 
proper method of cure, 
is to prevent the hoof 
from expanding when 
the weight of the horse 
is thrown upon the foot. 
Fig. 1.— CRACKED HOOP. 
The preventions of this 
expansion may be secured iu two ways : First, cul 
the edges of the crack clean with a sharp knife, ui 
to the coronet, and remove care¬ 
fully any dirt that may be in it. 
If there is any sound horn at the 
coronet, cut a groove in the crust 
of the hoof, in the shape of a a> 
from the sound horn downwards, 
below the crack. Then make on 
each side of the crack two or 
three cuts, as shown in figure 1. 
These should be deep enough to give a firm hob 
to the hooks which are to be inserted in the holes 
but not so deep as to touch the sensitive part 
Fig. 3. 
