KTAADN. 
31 
With our packs heaped up near the bows, and ourselves 
disposed as baggage to trim the boat, with instructions 
not to move in case we should strike a rock, more than 
so many barrels of pork, we pushed out into the first 
rapid, a slight specimen of the stream we had to navi¬ 
gate. With Uncle George in the stern, and Tom in 
the bows, each using a spruce pole about twelve feet 
long, pointed with iron,* and poling on the same side, 
we shot up the rapids like a salmon, the water rushing 
and roaring around, so that only a practised eye could 
distinguish a safe course, or tell what was deep water 
and what rocks, frequently grazing the latter on one or 
both sides, with a hundred as narrow escapes as ever 
the Argo had in passing through the Symplegades. I, 
who had had some experience in boating, had never 
experienced any half so exhilarating before. We were 
lucky to have exchanged our Indians, whom we did not 
know, for these men, who, together with Tom’s brother, 
were reputed the best boatmen on the river, and were at 
once indispensable pilots and pleasant companions. The 
canoe is smaller, more easily upset, and sooner worn 
out; and the Indian is said not to be so skilful in the 
management of the batteau. He is, for the most part, 
less to be relied on, and more disposed to sulks and 
whims. The utmost familiarity with dead streams, or 
with the ocean, would not prepare a man for this pecu¬ 
liar navigation ; and the most skilful boatman anywhere 
else would here be obliged to take out his boat and carry 
round a hundred times, still with great risk, as well as 
delay, where the practised batteau-man poles up with 
comparative ease and safety. The hardy “voyageur” 
pushes with incredible perseverance and success quite 
* The Canadians call it picquer defend. 
