AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
129 
lSftfc] 
will have marked benefit. Novvly seeded land will 
probably be benefited by rolling, after the stones 
have been picked off, if there are any, and on this 
the clover will usually do better for a little plaster. 
Pastures .—The earliest spring pasturage is in 
swampy land, where the bogs have been burned 
over. The young grass, though coarse, is sweet 
and tender. Keop the herds off from upland pas¬ 
tures until the grass gets a good start. Top-dress¬ 
ings of ashes, leached ashes, plaster, superphos¬ 
phate, and especially bone-dust, are particularly 
good for pastures—the earlier applied, the better. 
Irrigation of Grass Land receives too little atten¬ 
tion. It may be the source of great profit, not 
the least of which is the production of rank crops 
of timothy and orchard grass for soiling, much 
earlier than they would otherwise grow. 
Soiling Crops .—These should only be grown upon 
the richest land, the object being foliage, and not 
grain, or seed. Oats alone, oats and peas, and 
spring wkoat, are the usual soiling crops put in 
this month. The ground should be well manured, 
warm, and mellow, and the seed should bo put in 
as early as it is in this condition. 
Parley is an excellent crop; for, though the straw 
is short, the grain brings a good price usually, and 
is, besides, excellent for feeding out on the farm to 
horses, sheep, or poultry. Be careful that the seed 
is free from oats, and all of one kind. Two-rowed, 
four-rowed, and six-rowed, are frequently all found 
minglod in the sauio lot, much to the dissatisfaction 
of brewers, and the discredit of the raiser. 
Wheat .—Thero is, doubtless, a marked difference 
in varieties, but the yield and profits of wheat rais¬ 
ing depend more upon the preparation of the soil 
than upon the kind of wheat. The more thorough 
the tillage, the better. A flnoly worked, well en¬ 
riched, warm soil, early sowed, is what the crop 
demands. It is far better to drill in the seed than 
to sow broadcast. It should be soaked in strong 
brine, and rolled in lime, to kill the smut spores. 
Potatoes .—Cut the seed to single eyes, and plant 
in ground enriched with old, well-rotted manure, or 
manured last fail. Planted in hills the crop is never 
quite so large as in drills, but the digging is much 
more rapid and satisfactory. Plant deep, and when 
the plants show themselves, turn a ridge over them 
with a plow, and after a week harrow it flat again. 
Early Goodrich and Early Rose are the best early 
varieties, the latter the best and most reliable. 
The former sometimes of poor quality. 
Roots .—Work the soil deeply, and enrich it well, 
applying fine manure. Sow in drills 24 to 30 inehes 
apart, to admit of doing all the tillage by horse¬ 
power. Carrots may be sown closer than above 
stated, but the labor of cultivation is increased. 
» ■■■-»«-—-.-- 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
As we write these notes, early in March, the out¬ 
look is more wintry than it has been siuee Decem¬ 
ber. It is never safe to make predictions concern¬ 
ing the season, but it is proper to be prepared, not 
only now, but always, for a late spring. It is with 
this view that we suggest doing many things dur¬ 
ing the mild spells of winter that are often left 
until spring. April is always an uncertain month 
at the North, and it will be useful to look back 
through the notes for other months for suggestions. 
Orchard and Nursery, 
Preparing to Plant .—The land should have been 
prepared last autumn, but many will do it this 
season. In the hurry to have the soil ready for the 
trees, do not be tempted to plow while it is wet. 
It should crumble as the furrow is turned, and be 
In a condition to produce a good corn crop. 
Draining will often be needed, but this can be 
done after the trees are set. 
Planting .—Use no manure about the roots, but 
surround them with flue surface soil. Spread the 
roots naturally, and if there are any masses of tan¬ 
gled fibres, separate them. Work the soil well in, 
among the roots, and, if necessary, use water to 
wash it into the small cavities. It is supposed that 
the trees have first had a proper 
Pruning before Setting .—See that all roots, muti¬ 
lated in digging, have a clean cut, and cut back the 
top one-third or one-lialf of last year’s growth, 
according to the amount of roots that remain. 
Trees in bad order , from delay in transportation, 
must be treated according to their condition. If 
shriveled, bury them, tops and all. If they have 
heated, and the buds started, cut back severely. 
Trees that cannot be well planted .—It sometimes 
happens that the land is not ready, or other work 
presses so, that the trees, though at hand, cannot 
be set in a proper manner. Rather than hurry the 
planting, it is better to set them out in good soil, 
in nursery lows, and allow them to grow there for 
one season. They will then bo ready for planting 
in the orchard, early in autumn. 
Root Grafts .—Set out iu rows far enough apart 
to work with the cultivator, and a foot apart in the 
row. Bring the soil close in contact with the roots. 
Nursery Stock .—Head back before the buds push, 
as cutting when in leaf will check the growth. 
Budded Stocks .—Gut off above the bud those 
where the budding lias been successful. Apples 
and pears, upon which the buds havo failed, may 
be stock-grafted close to the root. 
Seeds of apple and pear should be sown early in 
rich soil, to get a growth before hot weather. 
Take Peach stones from the seed-beds or heaps, sift 
the earth from them, and plant in nursery rows. 
Fruit Garden 
The amateur is much puzzled with descriptions 
of new varieties of fruits, each claiming to be bet¬ 
ter than those that are in general cultivation. 
Among ail fruits there are some which, though not 
the best in al! points, have the most desirable quali¬ 
ty of being reliable. While wo would have all who 
can afford to do so, to test the new kinds, we ad¬ 
vise those about to plant for family use to take for 
their main dependence the well tested sorts. 
Grape-Vines .—The Concord is the most generally 
known variety. The Eumelan promises to be a fa¬ 
vorite. Delaware, Iona, Salem, and others, are 
excellent where they will succeed. Varieties that 
have been laid down are to be taken up and tied to 
the trellis. Plant good one-year-old, or at most, 
two-year-old vines. It is common to see vines an 
inch and more in diameter for sale. Such arc not 
worth planting. If it is desired to propagate a 
variety hv layers, open a trench a few inches deep, 
and lay down a cane of last year’s growth. This 
may be fastened in place by pegs, but it is not to 
be covered with earth until the shoots have pushed. 
Cuttings of those varieties that start without arti¬ 
ficial heat may be put out. 
Straidberries .—Plaut as directed last month—the 
earlier the better. Go over beds that were covered 
with straw last fall, and part the straw over the 
plant, but leave it to mulch the soil. 
Blackberries .—Set early. See last month. The 
Kittatinny is the best generally tested variety. 
Raspberries .—The tender varieties are to be un¬ 
covered. The Black Caps do not sucker, and the 
fruit is liked by most people. The McCormick (call¬ 
ed Mammoth Cluster by some) is one of the best. 
Currants .—Set plants in good soil, and give them 
good care. Proper pruning and culture will make 
almost any of the varieties acceptable. The Ver¬ 
sailles and White Grape are the leading sorts. 
Gooseberries .—The Houghton and American Seed¬ 
ling are hardy. Some of the English sorts may be 
tried in a moist soil by those who are fond of experi¬ 
ments. They will often mildew with the best care. 
Kitchen Garden, 
In the notes for la»t month we said all that is 
necesssary about fiorwarding crops under glass, 
though we must repeat the necessity of care in 
giving ventilation to plants in hot-beds and cold- 
frames. The plants are more likely to suffer from 
too much heat than from too great cold. 
Seed Sowing is to be done according to locality. 
Garden vegetables are divided iuto hardy and ten¬ 
der. Onions, leeks, beets, carrots, spinach, cab¬ 
bage and its relatives, lettuce, parsley, parsnips, 
peas, radish, cress, salsify and turnip are hardy, 
and may be sown when the soil can be well worked. 
Beans, melons, cucumber, squash, tomato, okra, 
nasturtium nnd sweet corn are tender, and need the 
the same conditions of soil and temperature as re¬ 
quired by Indian com. 
Seed-Beds arc used for all plants that require 
transplanting, or that it is most convenient to raise 
in tliis way. These should be of light and rich 
soil, placed in a sheltered part of tHe garden. 
Varieties. —We usually give this month a list of 
a few of the leading sorts as aguido to tho inexpe¬ 
rienced. There are others equally good witli those 
we name; our object is to save the novice the 
perplexities which a crowded catalogue presents. 
Novelties. —Each year the seedsmen offer new va¬ 
rieties. Some of them prove good, and some in¬ 
ferior to old sorts. It is well to try a few new 
things every year, if one can afford it. 
Asparagus. —Fork over old beds. Make now beds 
by setting ouo-year-old plants. Sec page 20, (Jan¬ 
uary). Conover’s Colossal is the leading variety. 
Beans. —Early Valentine is the standard bush sort 
Black Wax is excellent. Plant in drills, 2 feet apart. 
Among pole beans, the Giaut Wax is best for snaps, 
and Largo Lima for shelling. 
Beets. —Bassano is earliest, but Early Blood Tur¬ 
nip is better. Dewing’s, Hatch’s and Egyptian are 
new and highly praised. Drills a foot apart. 
Broccoli. —White and Purple Capo are good. Treat 
the same as cabbages. 
Cabbage. —Early Wakefleld and Little Pixie are 
good early. Early Wyman, new and largo. Win- 
ningstadt is best for light soils and medium late. 
Marblehead Drumhead, Fottler’s, Flat Dutch and 
others are good late. Early, Blue Savoy and Drum¬ 
head. Sow in seed-bed or cold-frame. Set plants 
out from cold-frame, 10 inehes apart in rows 2 feet 
apart, as early ns tho soil can be worked. 
Carrot.— Sow same as beets. Early Horn. 
Caulifloiver. —Half Early Paris, of which the Bos¬ 
ton Market is a strain, is the best for general cul¬ 
ture. Treatment, ns for enbbage. 
Celery. —Dwarf Wliito Solid, Boston Market. 
Some of the red sorts, such as Incomparable, and 
Dwarf Crimson, are fine. Sow iu seed-bed. Turnip- 
rooted is for soups and salads. 
Corn. —Crosby’s Early, Farmer’s Club, Mammoth 
Sweet and Stowell are all good. Mexican, though 
black, is tlie sweetest of all. 
Cress. —Sow the Curled at intervals of a week. 
Cucumbers. —Early Russian, earliest; White Spine, 
for general crop ; fircen Prickly, for pickles. Gen¬ 
eral Grant is a new variety, highly commended. 
Start as directed last month. 
Egg-Pant. —Long Purple, earliest; Black Pekin, 
best. Always sown under glass. 
Horse-radish. —Plant sets in manured trenches, 
and fill up with earth as tho plant grows. 
Kohl-rabi. —Early White. Sow in rows 2 feet apart. 
Leek. —Flag and Musselburgh. Sow tho same 
as onions, or in a seed-bed to transplant. 
Lettuce. —Curled Silesia, Curled Simpson, Tennis 
Bull; many other sorts are in the catalogues. Sow 
in seed-bed ; set out plants from cold-frames a foot 
apart eacli way. 
Melon, —Ward’s Nectar, Skillman’s Notted,among 
the older sorts; Sills’ Hybrid and Cassabar, are 
now and fine. Treat the same as cucumbers. 
Onions. —See article on growing from sets, page 
91, last month. Seed must be sowu on very rich 
soil in rows 15 inches apart. Early Red, Danvers 
Yellow, White Portugal. Potato onions are grown 
from sets. 
Parsley. —Curled. Soak tho seeds before sowing. 
Parsnip. —Sow in 15-inch drills last year’s seed. 
Hollow-Crowned is best. 
Peas. —Carter’s First Crop, Daniel O’Rourke, Lit- 
