168 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[May, 
Housekeeping Conveniences—Plumbing. 
Our previous articles on convenient houses, have called 
ou I. many inquiries, especially concerning Tanks, Boilers, 
Stationary Wash -trays (often called Stationary Wasli- 
tubs), Water-Backs, etc. Many persons living remote 
from cii ics are desirous of knowing how they are arranged. 
Fig. 1 gives a general view of a 234-story house with 
the main apparatus in the first story. This is more fre¬ 
quently placed in the basement, in which case we can 
imagine the pipes carried up into another story. The 
tank, t, is filled from the roof, or hy the pump. The cold 
water pipe, c, conveys the cold water down to near the 
bottom of the water-tight copper boiler, b, and forces the 
hot water out through the pipe h, entering a little way 
into the top, by which it is carried up to the sink s, in the 
next story, to the stopcocks in the wash-trays, a, a, a , 
and anywhere else throughout the house, to any point 
not higher than the tank. The force pump drives the 
cold water into the trays, if the stopcocks be open ; also, 
on closing these, it is forced into the boiler, and up into 
the tank when desired. The pressure from the tank 
keeps this cold water pipe always full for supplying wash- 
stands (s), bath-tubs, water-closets, etc. The waste-pipe, 
w, carries away filthy water from the trays, from the 
wash-stands, s, etc.Fig. 2 shows the lower part of 
the apparatus in a plainer form. The boiler, b , is of 
strong copper, riveted—its strength proportioned to the 
pressure. For a tank in 2d or 3d story we use what is 
called “ Croton Pressure” strength. From near the bot¬ 
tom of the tank a pipe runs through the chimney hack, 
not shown here, to a water-back , w 5, in the range, r, from 
which another pipe, 7i, runs back to the boiler at a higher 
point. This water-back is a strong iron box, say 10 to 14 
inches long, G to 10 inches high, and about 2 inches thick; 
and it takes the place of the rear fire brick in the fire 
chamber of the range or cook-stove, so that it is always 
in direct contact with the fire, and being always full of 
water does not burn out. With the smallest amount of 
fire the water is warmed, rises through 7i, while cold water 
flows in through c. In this way the boiler is always kept 
hot as long as there is any fire. The boiler holds from 
30 to GO gallons, and the body of water will keep warm 
long after the fire goes out. One holding 35 to 45 gallons 
is sufficient for a medium house; 30 gallons will do for a 
small house. The hot-water of course always rises to 
the top, and is drawn off through the pipe h, as wanted. 
In good plumbing, a waste-pipe leaves the lowest point, 
with a stopcock, o, usually closed, so as to draw oft' any 
sediment that may collect in the boiler should this occur, 
or the water get foul, or it he desirable to empty the 
whole apparatus. From the hot-water pipe, branches 
run to any points desired, ns 7 is, to a sink in the kitchen ; 
one or more upwards, with side branches to the cham¬ 
bers. This also extends up over the top of the tank (as 
in fig. 3), and answers as a safety-valve to the boiler. In 
brisk boiling a little hot-water will sometimes rise over 
into the tank, and keep it from freezing. Another branch 
runs along the wall with a stopcock opening into each of 
Fig. 3. 
the wash-trays, t, t, t. The pump draws the water through 
the supply pipe s, from the cistern, reservoir, or well, and 
forces it up into the tank, or out at any point where a 
stopcock is opened; in the right branch a cold water 
stopcock opens into each of the trays. A valve v, in the 
horizontal pipe above the pump, prevents drawing water 
from the tank into the trays. It will he seen that by this 
arrangement, two pipes answer to carry hot and cold wa¬ 
ter up or down. The waste-pipes, w, w, w, collect and 
carry the water out through the wall into a drain. The 
bend in this, near the first tray, is called a stench-trap— 
the bend always keeping full of water so that no odors 
can pass hack from the drain. These traps should always 
be provided with a broad screw in the lowest point of the 
bend, for removing any sand or other obstruction that 
may chance to settle there.—The wash-trays are made of 
strong clear pine plank, I54 or 1% inches in thickness, let 
into each other at the joints, and these well smeared with 
white-lead ground in oil, before putting the pieces to¬ 
gether. The case is divided into two or three compart¬ 
ments as desired. The back and end pieces are perpen¬ 
dicular and the front pieces inclined in at the bottom, so 
that while the tub is 19 or 20 inches wide at the top, in¬ 
side measurement, it is only 13 to 14 inches wide at the 
bottom. Perpendicular depth inside, 14 inches. The top 
front edge should stand about 33 inches above the floor. 
The length of the trays may he about 2 feet each. The 
bottom board is a little inclined to the left, and in the 
lowest rear corner of each tray is a waste-pipe, p, with 
metallic plug attached to a chain from near the top, so 1 
that it can be opened readily. Two trays are convenient 
for different kinds of suds or clothes, and a third still 
more so, for rinsing. A wringer can stand upon the right 
end, or he changed to the division boards. The covers, 
if neatly fitted, form a good ironing table when shut 
down. It will he readily seen how great a convenience 
are these “ stationary trays,” and how much tugging and 
lifting they save. Turning a stopcock lets in hot-water 
as desired. Cold water is pumped directly in, or may be 
drawn from the tank if the supply be great enough, by 
omitting the valve v; and hy lifting the plug, the wash 
water runs away. We can hardly wonder that when 
servants are asked to go to a house, the first question 
usually is “ Have you stationary wash-tubs f ” 
which implies boiler, etc., with hot - water for 
dishes and other purposes always 
ready for use. This apparatus is sup¬ 
posed to he in a separate wash-room 
or laundry. The whole may be in the 
Kitchen. The pump may stand at the 
edge of the sink with a cold water 
spout and cock near the air-chamber, a. 
This air-chamber is not necessary, hut 
is desirable as a protection to the pipe 
and pump, and it makes the pump¬ 
ing easier, and gives a steady stream 
of water.-All pipes should be kept 
from the walls, at least hy a board, and 
should he run up by the side of a chimney, or through a 
closet, and not against the outer wall. It is better also, 
when practicable, to have the tank, etc., on the warmest 
side of the building. Lead pipes, where passing through 
wood-work should fit closely, or be surrounded with ce¬ 
ment and broken glass, otherwise rats in attempting to 
enlarge a passage will sometimes cut through the lead 
pipe. For size and weight of lead pipe, for apparatus of 
moderate size, see “ Plumbing specifications,” on page 
89 (March No). For the great utility and profit of such 
an arrangement, see page S8. Size, arrangement, etc., 
may be varied to suit taste, means, location of rooms, etc. 
Fig. 4. 
Fig. 3 represents the Tank in some upper room, wit\ 
its top a little below the eaves-trough, from which an in¬ 
let pipe is shown. The dark spot, just below it, indicates 
the over-flow pipe running down to the cistern. The 
hot and cold water-pipes are shown coming up from be¬ 
low. The short pipe (with stopcock for shutting oft' the 
water if ever desired for repairs or otherwise,) lets the 
water down or up. The extended curved part above, dis¬ 
charges water pumped up, and also answers as a “spring” 
in the pipe.—The tank is made with 134-inch matched 
plank, built inside a scantling or wall-strip frame, and 
is lined with sheet lead, well soldered. Two of the 
“ plumber’s tacks ” are indicated on one side—that is, the 
lead is let into the wood at 
these points, the indenture 
being covered with solder 
to protect any weakness 
from the beating in of the 
lead. These “ tacks ” pre¬ 
vent the lead from sagging 
down at the sides, as it will 
usually do, after long ex¬ 
posure to alternate heat and 
cold. In building, stronger 
studding, and closer joists 
should be carried up under 
the tank to support the 
great weight of water. With 
this provision, it is better 
to make the tank large, 
and thus save pumping in dry -weather. The cost is but 
a little greater for one of double size. Each cubic foot 
of contents holds nearly 7Ms gallons, or about 4 feet to 
the barrel; 4x6feet, 3)4 feet deep, will hold about G50 
gallons, or 21 barrels. In a house not constructed for the 
purpose, we made an aperture through the side from the 
attic floor out over the which was half a story lower, 
and set the middle of a large tank over the heavy beam, 
supporting the outer end upon the L. roof, and covered 
the outside portion over the roof with double hoards, 
having 4 inches of shavings between, and surrounded the 
-whole with a tin roof extend¬ 
ing from the side of the main 
house over on to the roof of 
the This arrangement 
has worked well for several 
years.—It is on the south 
side, and has never frozen 
at all. It holds 60 barrels. 
The tank should always bo 
closely covered, and have a 
trap-door in the cover to look 
into the tank. The water 
comes in from the upper roof 
only, and when full the sur¬ 
plus runs through a spout 
on to the |L roof and thence 
to the cistern. The tank is cleaned of any sediment once 
a year or so. Pipes with branches extend from this to the 
boiler, to the bath-room, water-closet, wash-sinks, etc. 
A stopcock in the pipe where it leaves the bottom of 
the tank, is desirable, both to cut off the water from de¬ 
scending if leakage occur below, and also when cleaning 
out or washing the tank itself. A metallic strainer is 
put over the head of the discharge pipe, to stop any 
leaves or other material entering from the tank, to clog it. 
Fig'. 4 shows the “Butler’s Sink,” described last 
month, page 12S, with the front door and casing below 
partly removed to show the waste-pipe, w, from which 
a branch extends to the strainer placed at the upper edge 
of the oval sink, to prevent its overflowing, if the stop¬ 
cocks should by chance be left open. A chain plug in 
the bottom opens directly into the waste-pipe, w. 
Fig;. 5 shows sink, etc., S—hcw , in room 7, fig. 4, 
page S8 (March number), with hot and cold water, and 
waste-pipes. The two supply pipes are seen in the cor¬ 
ner. This is, of course, all cased in neatly, with door in 
front. The stopcocks are set high enough above the 
sink to admit a pail under them. 
Fig. G shows the bath-tub and water-closet described 
last month, with the casing removed from the latter, in 
front, to show the internal arrangement.is the 
earthen-ware basin, having a metal basin 
under it, which is turned down hy raising 
the handle, and this movement also let® 
cold water into the rim of the porcelain, 
nearly horizontally, so as to wash it. The 
large 4-inch waste-pipe below has a stench- 
trap. The walnut cover, a, and seat, 5, are 
both on hinges, so that by opening both, 
the wide porcelain bowl answers for re¬ 
ceiving slops, and as a urinal. The hot 
and cold water pipes are seen in the corner, 
and the supply stopcocks at li and c; the 
hell-pull at z ; the bathing-tub at t, neatly 
cased in with panels. The French pattern 
hatliing-tub is now generally preferred — 
about 21 inches deep, 23 inches wide, and 
