243 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
1870.1 
;. ——— . ^ ■ i .1. .i I .. . 
When barley, oats, or peas, precede a crop of win¬ 
ter wheat, the land is much drier than a properly 
managed summer tallow, and in seasons of severe 
drouth, it is no easy task to get such land mellow 
and moist enough to germinate the seed. Wc 
should work the soil two or three inches deep im¬ 
mediately after harvest, and leave the stubble and 
loose soil on the surface to act as a mulch, and pre¬ 
vent, evaporation. We must keep working this 
surface soil for a month or six weeks with a culti¬ 
vator, harrow, and roller, to prevent the growth of 
weeds, and to pulverize the clods. Then plow and 
drill in the seed immediately. After Beans or Corn. 
The preparation must be done while the crops are 
growing, giving as much extra tillage as possible. 
Manuring Grass Land .—No doubt hot, reeking 
manure in which ammonia is formed and escaping, 
loses a good deal of its value in being spread upon 
a meadow, and exposed to the sun and winds. But 
that which is'not in this condition loses very little, 
and one overhauling and mixing with muck or 
earth will effectually prevent loss. Fine compost 
of this kind, with a little bone-dust and ashes, is the 
very best dressing mowing lands can have, and it 
should be applied freely as soon as the grass is cut. 
A half-rainy day is just the time ; then, especially if 
it rains hard after it is spread, the grass gets the 
most benefit, and the quick start it will make, and 
the rapidity with which it will cover the manure 
out of sight will please every one. 
Ilocing and Weed Killing .—Some “hoed crops” 
will be growing out of hand, and must be “ laid by.” 
Our rule is to keep at work stirring the soil and 
killing weeds as long as it can be done without 
more damage than profit. When that occurs it is 
hard to tell in every case. When the whiffletree 
sweeps down the corn, and when the potato tops 
no longer stand erect, it is high time to stop. After 
this the hand hoe may be used somewhat; but it is 
still more important to go through the crops 
named and pull the weeds by hand. 
Boots .—Mangels and Sugar Beets, Carrots and 
Parsnips, should be tilled by horse-lioeing', and 
thinned by hoe and hand, if not already done. Run 
a one-horse subsoil plow through between the rows, 
as deep as the horse will draw it steadily ; the effect 
is excellent, especially in dry jiveather. Common 
Turnips may be sown any time this month. Swedes, 
up to the middle. Sow evenly, using very little seed. 
Buckwheat is one of our most profitable crops, at 
the North at least. It grows quickly, may be a 
second crop after wheat, rye, or early potatoes, and 
requires but little manure, while it smothers out 
many weeds hard to kill otherwise. Sow 8 to 5 
peeks to the acre, according to the poorness of the 
land ; 150 pounds of guano will make a crop on al¬ 
most a blowing sand. 
Soiling and Forage Crops may be put in any time 
this month. Indian Corn is probably better than 
any other except for haying or late pasturage. Sor¬ 
ghum makes excellent green fodder; sow each in 
drills 2 feet apart. Hungarian grass, and other 
kinds of millet will make a crop of hay if sowed ear¬ 
ly in the month. Later sown winter grain is best, 
but it must be kept fed off or cut to prevent its go¬ 
ing up to head. 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
Our notes for July are written early in June. 
Usually at this season there have been abundant 
showers to promote a vigorous vegetation. This 
year a large exteut of country is suffering from 
drouth ; vegetation is checked and ripening prema¬ 
ture. We can only stir the soil and hope for rain. 
Orcliard nnd Nursery, 
Thinning has already been advised, and we refer 
to it again, as few have conrage to thin sufficiently 
at the first going over. Fruit is likely to be very 
abundant, and it is all the more desirable to obtain 
large and fine specimens. When fruit is plenty, a 
poor lot is hard to dispose of at any price. 
Peaches .—In most orchards there will be speci¬ 
mens that ripen prematurely. These, when in suf¬ 
ficient numbers to send to market, bring a good 
price. Baskets should be procured and marked, 
and pickers engaged. Directions for making crates 
are given on page 203. The fruit should be assort¬ 
ed into three grades. It will not pay to send poor 
fruit to market unless there is a very short crop. 
Grafts .—If they have grown vigorously, there is 
danger of their being broken by winds. Pinch the 
more rampant shoots. 
Pinching nnd Pruning should continue ; the first 
to regulate growth; and pruning is done in antici¬ 
pation by removing shoots, that have started where 
they are not needed, while yet young. 
Budding usually commences this month, but the. 
condition of the stock is much influenced by the 
season. Whenever well-formed buds are to be had 
and the bark of the stock will lift, it may be done. 
Insects .—We have in previous months noted the 
principal ones. The late broods of caterpillars 
will need watching. Borers have generally laid 
their eggs. Should the grubs have penetrated the 
tree, dig them out as soon as discovered. 
Black Knot .—Cut it out at the first appearance 
and burn. No doubt insects do find a lodgment in 
it, as they will in any soft part of the tree, but they 
are not the cause. It is a fungus which should not 
be allowed to mature and multiply. 
Slugs, which so disfigure cherry and pear-trees, 
may be killed by dusting powdered lime from a bag. 
Seeds .—Collect cherry-stones and mix with sand 
to prevent them from becoming too dry. 
ffVnit Garden. 
Grape-Vines .—Keep young growth well tied up, 
and rub out any superfluous shoot that may start. 
If mildew makes its appearance, use sulphur free¬ 
ly. Bellows for applying it may be had at the im¬ 
plement stores. Young vines should not be al¬ 
lowed to overbear; a bunch to the shoot is all that 
a vine should bear at its first fruiting. Beetles and 
caterpillars will need hand-picking. Layers may be 
made of the present season’s growth, by bending a 
shoot down and burying a portion of its length.— 
The extreme end of the layered shoot should be 
tied to a stake in an erect position. 
Currants and Gooseberries .—If the useless shoots 
are removed as they start, but little pruning will be 
required in autumn. 
Strawberries .—To those who would make new 
beds, we cannot too strongly commend the method 
of striking runners in pots described on page 204. 
The plants, as soon as rooted, may be 6et out, and 
will bear a good crop next spring. 
Raspberries .—Remove the old canes as soon as the 
fruit is off, and hoe off all suckers not needed to 
grow canes for next year. 
Blackberries .—The new growth, which is to bear 
the fruit next year, is to be kept in proper shape by 
pinching. The canes should not be allowed to 
grow more than 5 feet high, and the side shoots, 
which they will throw out, are to be pinched when 
a foot or 18 inches long. 
Dwarf Trees are to be kept in the shape of bush¬ 
es, pyramids, or whatever style of training may be 
adopted, by pinching. If a shoot is disposed to 
grow too long, pinch the end, and if one does not 
grow as desired, there is probably a more vigorous 
one robbing it, which should be checked by the 
same means. What was said about thinning in the 
orchard is emphatically applicable to dwarf trees. 
They are particularly apt to overbear, and the best 
fruit is only to be had by care in thinning. 
Kitelien Garden. 
The soil should be constantly occupied by some 
crop. It is very poor gardening to allow a piece, af¬ 
ter an early crop is off, to grow up with weeds. As 
soon as one thing is off, spade or plow up and put 
in a succession crop. 
Beans .—The Limas, when they have reached the 
tops of the poles, may be pinched. Bush sorts 
may still be planted. 
Beets .—If sown as late as the present month will, 
in ordinary seasons, make a crop. Thin early. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers .—Transplant the late 
sorts from the seed-bed. It is well to assort the 
plants and use only the most vigorous, rejecting 
any which show malformation of the root. Slugs 
are often very troublesome, and may be caught by 
laying cabbage leaves on the ground ; they will hide 
under the leaves, and may be destroyed. Ducks 
will destroy them. These plants are much bene¬ 
fited by frequent hoeing. 
Carrots are to be kept clear of weeds until the 
tops prevent working between the rows. 
Celery .—Sufficient was said last month on p. 221. 
Coin .—The early sorts may be sown this month, 
and give a late picking. 
Cucumbers .—Sow for pickles in well-manured 
soil. For seed, select the earliest and finest shaped. 
Egg-Plants need all possible urging. Hoe fre¬ 
quently and give liquid manure. Place straw or 
hay under the fruit, to keep it from the ground. 
Endive may be sown for late salad. 
Herbs .—These are best grown as a second crop, 
transplanting from the seed-bed to occupy ground 
from which early things have been taken. They 
grow better late in the season than if put out earlj-. 
Leeks maybe transplanted to rich soil, placing the 
rows a foot apart, the plants 6 inches in the row. 
Lettuce .—The India is the best for hot weather, 
and this will do better if shaded a part of the day. 
Melons .—Cultivate the ground as long as it can be 
done without injury to the vines. Remove all fruit 
that is not likely to ripen. 
Onions need to be kept free from weeds. Those 
who live near cities usually bunch their onions and 
market the crop before it is ripe. 
Potatoes .—Only the early sorts find a place in the 
garden, and these are usually dug while the tops 
are yet green. We open a trench and bury the tops, 
which decompose rapidly, and make an excellent 
manure for whatever crop may follow. 
Rhubarb should have a rest as soon as fruit be¬ 
comes plenty. Keep the flower-stalks cut off, as 
they exhaust the roots. 
Sweet Potatoes , whether on ridges or in hills, 
should be kept clean until the vines cover the 
ground. The vines should not be allowed to root. 
Squashes .—Keep the ground clean until the vines 
take possession of it, and then allow them to root 
at 'the joints. Look out for insects. 
Tomatoes .—If training is followed, keep the 
plants tied up to the stake or trellis. They will 
bear cutting, and fruit all the better for having weak 
shoots cut out. If nothing better can be done, lay 
down some brush to keep the fruit from the ground. 
The “worm,” as the large green caterpillar is pop¬ 
ularly called, must be removed as soon as discov¬ 
ered, as it spares neither vines nor young fruit.— 
The notion that it is poisonous is an error. 
Weeds arc easily kept down if taken early enough. 
In many soils a sharp rake is the best implement 
to destroy them with. For more stubborn ones, 
the lioe-forlc is preferable to the common hoe. 
Flower Garden nnd Lawn. 
Keeping is one of the chief things' to attend to 
this month. Neatness in the borders, on the lawn, 
and in the paths, will make a small garden more 
pleasing than a large one badly kept. 
The Lawn will require a weekly mowing. There 
are several excellent machines at moderate prices. 
The most of these scatter the grass, which wilts in 
a few hours, and is not noticeable. It serves as a 
mulch to the roots, and by its gradual decay adds 
vegetable matter to the soil. Annual weeds give 
but little trouble when the grass is mown frequent¬ 
ly. The perennial ones should be pulled up or cut 
well below the surface by means of-a knife, or a, 
“spud,” which is a sort of chisel with along handle. 
Margins of the turf where it borders upon a bed 
or a walk should be kept well defined, nnd no roots 
allowed to spread. 
Supports are essential to the neat appearance of 
many plants. Whatever is used should be kept out 
